UC-NRLF 


73    210 


'  OF  CALIFORNIA. 


GIFT  OF 
Prof.   E.  J.Yv'ickson 


T^JRAL  LIBRARY  SS/VBS ' 


CHRYSANTHEMUM 
CULTURE 


KOR      AMKRICA 


A  Book  about  Chrysanthemums,  their  History, 
Classification  and  Care 


BY 

JAMES    MORTON 

Author  of 

SOUTHERN  FLORICULTURE 
*OF  THE*^^ 

rTJHIVEKSIT7; 


1891 

THE     RURAL     PUBLISHING    COMPANY 

TIMES   BUILDING,   NEW   YORK 


AGRICULTURAL 
LIBRARY, 

UNIVERSITY 

— *OF— 

CALIFORNIA. 


MAIM  Ll»«AKY-AG«iCULTU»E  DKPT* 

Copyright  tRqi,  by 
THE  RURAL  PUBLISHING  COMPANY. 


ELECTROTYPiO    AND    PRINTED    BY 
J.     HORACE     MCFARLAND,     HARRISBURG 


PREFACE. 


TO  ALL  who  cultivate  the  Chrysanthemum — the  Star- 
eyed  Daughter  of  the  Fall — the  author  presents  this 
little  volume  that  he  has. endeavored  to  make  replete 
with  tidings  of  the  Autumn  Queen. 

Numerous  works  have  been  devoted  to  this  favorite  flower, 
but  they  are  chiefly  of  English  origin,  and  in  view  of  the  great 
difference  in  our  climatic  conditions,  they  can  only  with 
uncertainty  be  adopted  as  guides  in  our  country.  There 
have  also  been  issued  a  few  excellent  treatises  on  the  Chrys- 
anthemum, that  except  in  a  casual  manner  do  not  deal  with 
anything  further  than  mere  cultural  details,  and  it  is  therefore 
hoped  that  the  ensuing  pages  will  be  of  interest  to  those  who 
are  desirous  of  obtaining,  in  addition  to  cultural  instruc- 
tions, a  brief  history  of  their  favorite  flower,  gleaned  from 
many  sources. 

The  wonderful  progress  in  the  culture  of  the  Chrysanthe- 
mum under  the  influences  of  American  environments,  the 
matchless  beauty  and  vigor  of  the  American  seedlings,  to- 
gether with  the  all-important  demand  for  information  regard- 
ing its  culture,  have  suggested  the  publication  of  the  pres- 
ent volume,  presenting  the  results  of  experience  gained 


52GGV8 


4  Chrysanthemum    Culture  for  America. 

beneath  American  skies  and  enumerating  the  varieties  most 
popular  among  American  amateur  and  professional  florists. 

It  is  also  hoped  that  the  present  volume  will  prove  com- 
panionable, and  gain  admission  into  the  fellowship  of  works 
devoted  to  our  Queen  by  other  growers  who  have  written  of 
their  favorite  flower  and  mine,  and  that  it  may  find  for  itself  an 
abiding  place  in  the  hearts  and  homes  of  all  people. 

In  regard  to  a  large  portion  of  the  historical  matter  pre- 
sented, the  writer  desires  to  express  his  obligations  and  grati- 
tude for  the  kindly  assistance  of  that  profound  student  of 
chrysanthemum  history,  Mr.  C.  Harman  Payne,  of  London, 
England.  He  would  also  acknowledge  his  indebtedness  to 
the  pages  of  the  Gardener's  Magazine,  and  to  Mr.  Shirley 
Hibberd,*  its  courteous  and  learned  conductor. 

Clarksville,  Tenn.  JAMES   MORTON. 


*The  author  is  pained  to  learn,  since  this  volume  has  been  in  press,  of  the  death  of 
this  revered  horticultural  leader. 


CONTENTS. 


Chapter.  Page. 

I.     ORIENTAL  AND  EUROPEAN  HISTORY 7 

II.     AMERICAN  HISTORY 31 

III.  PROPAGATION 41 

IV.  GENERAL  CULTURE 50 

V.     EXHIBITION  PLANTS 63 

VI.     INSECTS  AND  DISEASES    74 

VII.     SPORTS  AND  OTHER  VARIATIONS    76 

VIII.     CHRYSANTHEMUM  SHOWS  AND  ORGANIZATIONS     83 

IX.     CLASSIFICATION 94 

X.     VARIETIES  FOR  VARIOUS  PURPOSES no 

XI.  CALENDAR  OF  MONTHLY  OPERATIONS  .                                 .  .118 


CHAPTER    I. 


Oriental  and  European  History. 

rROM  almost  pre-historic  times  the  inhabitants  of  China 
and  Japan  have  cultivated  this  famous  flower  with  a 
wonderful  devotion.    From  the  earliest  times  travelers 
have  related  the  esteem  in  which  this  plant  was  held 
by  the  inhabitants  of  the  flowery  kingdom.      The  propitious 
climate  enabled  the  gardeners  to  display  its  virtues   and  ad- 
vance its  fame  until  it  now  adorns  the  humblest  cottage  as 
well  as  the  habitation  of  the  exalted  mandarin.      This  great 
love  for  the  chrysanthemum  in  the  Celestial  Empire,  as  well 
as  in  the   Mikado's   kingdom,   did  not   extend  to   the  entire 
genus,  but  was  confined   to  the  varieties  indigenous  to  their 
climate,  toward  which  they  still  exhibit  the  most  ardent  and 
unchanging  admiration. 

The  chrysanthemum  derives  its  name  from  the  Greek 
words,  chrysos,  gold,  and  anthos,  a  flower,  the  literal  meaning, 
therefore,  being  "gold  flower,"  and  in  such  varieties  as 
Grandiflorum,  Gold,  and  a  host  of  others,  the  petals  are  of  a 
rich,  golden  yellow,  which  abundantly  justifies  the  name.  It 
is  an  extensive  genus  of  composite  plants,  and  includes 
species  which  are  to  be  found  growing  in  nearly  every  part  of 
the  world,  some  of  them  being  so  far  remote  as  the  extreme 
northeast  of  Asia,  while  many  others  are  indigenous  to  vari- 
ous parts  of  western  Europe.  In  Asia  the  barren  steppes  of 

(7) 


8  Chrysanthemum   Culture   for  America. 

Siberia  are  the  habitat  of  C.  absinthifolium,  and  Kamtchatka  that 
of  C.  carinatum.  In  northern  Africa  are  found  C.  paludosum, 
C.  carinatum  and  C.  pumilum  ;  in  Asiatic  Turkey,  C.  tanaceti- 
jolium  and  C.  lancifolium  ;  in  Hungary,  C.  rotundifolium  and  C. 
sylvestre ;  in  Austria,  C.  atratum ;  in  Spain,  C.  anomalum  and 
C.  radicals,  and  in  France,  C.  montanum  and  C.  perpusillum. 
Great  Britain  has  C.  Leucanthemum,  the  ox-eye  daisy,  and  C. 
segetum,  the  corn  marigold,  which  are  also  found  in  America, 
all  belonging  to  the  same  family.  Notwithstanding  the  long 
list  given,  it  will  be  observed  that  it  is  not  by  any  means  com- 
plete, inasmuch  as  Russia,  Switzerland,  Italy,  Sicily,  the 
Levant,  Mexico,  India,  China  and  Japan  contribute  additional 
species  of  this  important  and  widespread  genus.  But  of  all 
these  species,  those  of  India,  China,  and  Japan  are  perhaps 
the  most  usually  denoted  by  the  comprehensive  word — chrys- 
anthemum— among  the  majority  of  people  who  are  engaged 
in  the  cultivation  of  this  beautiful  and  deservedly  popular 
autumn,  flower,  the  named  varieties  of  which  alone  already 
number  between  two  and  three  thousand,  and  are  constantly 
increasing. 

There  are  good  reasons  for  supposing  that  it  was  cultivated 
with  much  devotion  by  the  gardeners  of  China  and  Japan  for 
centuries  before  its  importation  into  Europe.  A  well-known 
traveler  in  those  countries  tells  us  in  one  of  his  works  that 
"so  great  a  favorite  is  the  chrysanthemum  with  the  Chinese 
gardeners  that  no  persuasion  will  deter  them  from  its  culture, 
and  they  will  frequently  resign  their  situations  rather  than  be 
forbidden  by  their  employers  to  grow  it."  In  support  of  this 
statement,  he  relates  the  experience  of  an  English  resident  in 
that  country,  who,  without  the  slightest  interest  in  the  plant, 
was  compelled  to  allow  his  native  gardener  the  pleasure  of 
cultivating  it  solely  on  that  account.  The  Chinese  often  train 
the  chrysanthemum  into  curious  and  fantastic  forms,  such  as 
pagodas,  horses,  stags,  ships,  etc.  Another  peculiar  method 


Oriental  and  European  History.  9 

of  culture  practiced  at  Chea-yuen,  where  it  is  extensively  cul- 
tivated, is  the  grafting  of  cuttings  into  stout  stems  of  Artemisia 
indica  as  a  stock.  Among  the  Japanese  the  chrysanthemum 
is  no  less  prized  than  in  China,  and  they  display  great  skill  in 
its  culture,  calling  it  the  Queen  of  Flowers.  At  the  most 
popular  of  the  Japanese  festivals,  the  people  display  effigies 
of  their  traditional  heroes,  constructed  of  massive  chrysan- 
themum blossoms,  Benkei,  the  Japanese  Hercules,  appearing 
gorgeously  appareled  in  white,  yellow  and  purple  pompons. 

In  many  other  ways  the  Chinese  and  Japanese  reveal  their 
love  for  this  plant,  but  probably  in  no  more  apparent  and 
lasting  manner  than  by  applying  the  talent  of  their  most 
skillful  artists  to  portray  its  fair  form  and  vivid  coloring  on 
their  pottery  and  household  fabrics,  as  well  as  in  numberless 
illustrated  books  and  pamphlets. 

In  Japan  the  Imperial  Order  of  the  Chrysanthemum  is  the 
most  distinguished  decoration  of  the  Empire.  It  was  founded 
in  1876,  and  consists  of  a  star  and  collar  hung  around  the 
neck  by  a  riband,  the  whole  work  being  in  gold,  silver  and 
enamels.  Bestowed,  with  rare  exceptions,  only  upon  royal 
personages,  it  is  consequently  considered  a  very  high  distinc- 
tion among  European  sovereigns  who  have  been  wearers  of 
this  mark  of  the  Mikado's  favor.  The  chrysanthemum,  or 
"kiku,"  as  it  is  called  in  Japan,  is  also  one  of  the  crest 
badges  of  the  imperial  family,  and  is  used  as  an  official  seal. 
The  hilts  of  the  swords  forged  by  the  Emperor  Go  Toba,  who 
ascended  the  throne  in  1186,  had  the  kiku  figured  upon  them. 

The  chrysanthemum  season  in  Japan  is  looked  forward  to 
with  much  pleasure,  and  the  different  communities  manifest 
the  greatest  enthusiasm  in  its  culture.  A  certain  day  is  set 
apart  as  a  festival,  when  all  turn  out  to  pay  due  homage  to 
their  national  emblem,  the  many-hued  chrysanthemum.  Dur- 
ing their  blooming  period  the  gardens  of  all  the  prominent 
florists  present  an  exhibiVon  of  great  beauty.  Each  evening 


io  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

for  many  weeks  the  notables  of  rank,  as  well  as  the  peasants 
in  holiday  attire,  join  in  the  happy  festivities.  The  fetes  are 
always  held  in  the  evenings  and  the  grounds  are  beautifully 
illuminated,  presenting  a  scene  brilliant  beyond  description. 
His  Majesty  also  opens  his  gardens  at  the  Imperial  Palace  on 
this  grand  fete  day.  All  the  highest  native  officials  and  foreign 
residents  of  distinction  are  present,  and  invitations  are  highly 
prized  and  much  sought  after.  It  is  one  of  the  few  occasions 
when  the  Empress  is  to  be  seen  in  public.  She  delights  in 
having  the  most  dainty  handkerchiefs  of  gauze  embroidered 
in  chrysanthemums  of  all  colors.  Her  ladies  of  honor  also 
appear  in  gorgeous  dresses  with  chrysanthemums  worked  upon 
them.  Upon  this  occasion  the  display  of  the  national  flower 
is  said  to  be  unequaled.  Nowhere  can  they  be  found  in  such 
profusion,  so  fully  developed  and  brilliant  in  color,  while  the 
rich  imperial  violet  silk  with  which  the  tents  and  buildings  are 
draped  bear  upon  them  the  heraldic  kiku  in  all  its  pristine 
loveliness.  As  the  day  draws  to  a  close  the  people  return  to 
their  homes  to  complete  the  slow  process  of  intoxication  by 
drinking  saki,  into  which  are  thrown  the  blooms  of  chrysan- 
themums, which  they  suppose  will  preserve  them  from  evil 
the  coming  year. 

The  varieties  cultivated  in  Japan  are  numerous,  many  of 
them  having  exquisite  beauty,  as  the  importations  of  late 
years  attest.  True,  they  may  not  have  Ada  Spaulding,  Mrs. 
Carnegie,  Mrs.  W.  K.  Harris,  or  any  of  the  American  prize 
winners,  but  we  believe  their  wealth  of  beautiful  sorts  is  yet 
far  from  exhausted,  and  we  may  expect  in  the  not  distant 
future,  through  the  indomitable  enterprise  of  the  American 
importer,  to  have  representatives  of  all  the  most  desirable 
sorts  now  grown  by  our  Japanese  friends  blossoming  in  exhi- 
bition halls  of  our  American  cities.  Judging  from  the  new 
type  of  chrysanthemums  of  which  Mrs.  Alpheus  Hardy  and 
Louis  Boehmer  are  forerunners  in  the  United  States,  we  can- 


Oriental  and  European  History.  1 1 

not  but  think  that,  with  the  combined  efforts  of  the  importer 
and  the  hybridizer,  its  varieties  will,  within  the  next  decade, 
be  augmented  many  fold.  The  varieties  with  soft,  feathery 
growth,  over  which  so  much  ado  has  been  made  within  the 
past  few  years,  have  long  been  common  in  Japan,  for  Mr. 
Fortune  tried  many  years  since  to  bring  to  England  a  variety 
that  had  its  florets  edged  very  beautifully  with  a  hair-like 
fringe,  but  it  was  unfortunately  lost  on  the  way.  The  chrys- 
anthemums in  Japan  are  not  confined  to  the  autumn  varieties, 
for  several  beautiful  summer  blooming  kinds  of  large  size  are 
to  be  met  with  in  the  gardens  of  that  country.  These,  how- 
ever, would  never  become  as  popular  in  our  climate  as  the 
fall  flowering  varieties,  as  the  season  of  blooming  has  much 
to  do  with  the  popularity  of  the  many  varieties  we  cultivate. 
What  is  known  as  the  umbelliferous  chrysanthemums  have 
not  made  much  progress  among  our  florists  as  yet.  These 
varieties  are  grown  in  the  southern  province,  Kiushiu,  and, 
though  the  flowers  are  small,  their  branches  are  very  compact, 
forming  a  plant  a  yard  in  diameter. 

We  have  been  taught  that  there  is  no  such  thing  in  nature 
as  plants  of  the  same  species  producing  scarlet,  yellow  and 
blue  flowers.  Perhaps  the  nearest  approach  to  this  is  the 
hyacinth,  but  in  this,  although  we  have  the  yellow  and  blue, 
we  have  no  true  scarlet.  Neither  is  there  any  true  scarlet 
among  the  chrysanthemums,  which  encourages  some  credence 
in  the  information  regarding  the  existence  in  Japan  of  a 
variety  with  blue  flowers.  In  the  "  History  of  Nin-toku-ten- 
wan  "  the  following  passage  occurs  :  "  In  386,  in  the  seventy- 
third  year  of  his  reign,  seeds  of  the  chrysanthemum  were 
first  introduced  into  Japan  from  a  foreign  country,  both  blue 
and  yellow,  red,  white  and  violet."  There  are  frequently 
represented  on  Japanese  porcelain,  both  ancient  and  modern, 
especially  that  of  Satsuma  and  Kioto,  chrysanthemum  blos- 
soms in  blue  or  emerald  green,  to  which  fact  may  be  attributed 


12  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America 

the  notion  that  a  blue  chrysanthemum  exists  in  Japan.  It  is 
supposed  to  be  in  the  possession  of  the  Japanese  Buddhist 
priests,  who  guard  it  with  jealous  care  from  the  eyes  of 
western  travelers,  and  refuse  to  allow  it  to  leave  their  hands. 
M.  Em.  Rodigrez,  the  well-known  Belgian  horticulturist,  writ- 
ing upon  this  subject,  says  :  "Some  day,  perhaps,  we  shall 
get  a  sight  of  this  famous  blue  chrysanthemum,  which  we  are 
assured  exists  somewhere  in  the  Celestial  Empire,  but  which 
has  been  sought  for  in  vain.  It  may  grow  in  the  valley  of 
the  King-Chang-Oola,  inaccessable  to  Europeans  and  Ameri- 
cans, as  is  also  the  blue  camellia,  and  the  blue  lily." 

Beside  the  potter,  metal  worker,  weaver  and  ivory  car- 
ver, the  painter  also  has  lavished  his  skill  on  this  charming 
flower.  In  common  with  the  cherry  blossom  and  convolvulus, 
the  chryanthemum  enjoys  the  distinction  of  having  illustrated 
books  concerning  it,  specialty  designed  by  talented  artists,  and 
many  a  renowned  artist  has  not  disdained  it  as  the  subject  of 
his  masterpiece. 

The  name  of  the  ninth  month  in  Japan,  in  which  the  kiku  is 
in  bloom,  is  Kiku-dzuki,  and  on  the  ninth  day  of  Kiku-dzuki 
the  principal  festivals  of  the  country  are  held,  when  mirth 
and  feasting  are  the  order  of  the  day.  The  commonest  girl's 
name  in  Japan  is  O-kiku  San,  which  means  Honorable  Miss 
Chrysanthemum. 

It  is  nearly  two  hundred  years  since  this  plant  first  became 
known  in  Europe.  It  was  at  various  times  mentioned  by 
many  of  the  early  botanists  under  different  names,  but  they 
disagreed  as  to  the  genus  with  which  it  should  be  classed. 
Bregnius  in  1689  most  accurately  describes  the  Chinese 
varieties,  and  was  first  to  mention  the  species,  calling  it 
Matricaria  Japonica  maxima,  giving  it  also  the  Japanese  name 
"kychonophane."  He  makes  allusion  to  six  distinct  varie- 
ties, white,  blush,  rose,  yellow,  purple  and  crimson,  which  he 
says  were  growing  in  Holland  at  that  time.  These  plants 


Oriental  and  European  History.  13 

were  subsequently  lost  in  the  Dutch  gardens,  and  it  is  strange 
that  no  account  of  them  can  be  discovered,  and  that  the  gar- 
deners of  Holland  knew  nothing  of  them  when  the  chrysan- 
themum was  again  introduced  into  Europe  a  century  later. 
The  next  mention  of  the  chrysanthemum  is  in  1690,  by 
Rheede,  a  Dutch  scientist,  in  which  he  alleges  that  the  Dutch 
were  the  first  Europeans  to  cultivate  the  small-flowered  varie- 
ties, and  that  it  was  taken  by  them  to  their  distant  colonies  of 
Amboyna  and  Malabar,  where  the  name  of  "tsjettipu"  was 
given  it.  Plukenet  describes  the  small-flowered  plants  under 
the  name  Matricaria  Sinensis,  describing  what  is  thought  to  be 
the  Chinese  chrysanthemum  Matricaria  Japonica  maxima,  re- 
ferring also  to  the  kychonophane  of  Bregnius. 

The  learned  Engelbert  Kaempfer,  who  visited  Japan  in 
1690,  describes  the  Chinese  chrysanthemum,  under  the  name 
matricaria,  as  growing  wild  in  the  gardens,  being  called  by 
the  natives  kik,  kikf,  or  kikku.  He  says  that  there  are 
many  varieties,  some  of  which  are  in  blossom  at  all  seasons 
of  the  year,  and  that  they  are  the  principal  ornaments  of  all 
the  gardens.  Rumphius,  in  the  year  1750,  gives  a  description 
of  plants  collected  in  Amboyna  and  the  adjacent  islands,  in 
which  the  small  flowered  species  is  described  as  Matricaria 
Sinensis,  and  is  said  to  have  been  introduced  from  China.  He 
also  states  that  in  the  latter  country  it  is  cultivated  in  pots, 
and  that  the  Chinese  gardeners  keep  it  dwarf  and  allow  only 
one  bloom  upon  a  shoot. 

It  appears  in  the  "Hortus  Kewensis  "  that  in  England  the 
first  known  plant  of  the  chrysanthemum  which  bore  a  small 
yellow  blossom,  was  growing  in  the  Apothecarius  Botanic  Gar- 
den at  Chelsea  in  1764,  but  was  at  that  time  little  esteemed 
and  soon  lost  sight  of.  A  fortunate  circumstance,  bearing 
upon  this  history,  is  that  when  Sir  Thomas  Sloan  conveyed 
the  land  forming  this  garden  to  the  Apothecarius  Society  in 
1722,  he  inserted  in  the  covenant  a  clause  binding  them  to 


14  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

present  to  the  Royal  Society  fifty  dried  specimens  of  distinct 
plants  every  year  until  the  number  reached  two  thousand.  In 
accordance,  therefore,  with  the  terms  of  the  deed,  a  specimen 
of  this  small  yellow  variety  was,  with  other  plants,  presented 
by  the  society's  gardener,  Phillip  Miller,  to  the  Royal  Society 
under  the  name  Matricaria  indica,  and  is  still  preserved  in 
the  British  Museum. 

Thunberg,  in  his  "  Flora  Japonica,"  describes  the  plant  in 
1784,  which  he  asserts  is  Linnaeus' s  C.  indicum,  and  refers  to 
the  preceding  account  by  Kaempfer.  He,  too,  gives  the 
Japanese  appellations,  kik,  kikf,  kikku,  kikof,  and  kiko-no 
fanna,  which  latter  name  is  but  a  different  form  of  the  word 
kychonophane,  used  by  Bregnius,  the  word  fanna  being  used 
by  the  Japanese  as  expressive  of  elegance.  Thunberg  men- 
tions a  great  difference  in  color  as  well  as  size,  also  single  and 
double  flowering  kinds,  all  of  which  are  grown  in  the  gardens 
of  Japan  on  account  of  their  beautiful  flowers  produced  in  the 
autumn  months,  and  he  tells  us  that  it  is  the  same  plant 
mentioned  by  Kaempfer  as  matricaria. 

Loureiro,  the  Portugese  traveler,  in  his  account  in  1790 
of  the  plants  of  Cochin  China,  refers  to  the  C.  indicum  of 
Linnaeus,  but  his  description  evidently  belongs  to  the  Chinese 
chrysanthemum.  He  speaks  of  the  variety  of  the  color  of 
its  flowers,  which  he  states  are  white,  red,  blush,  yellow,  vio- 
let and  purple,  of  various  sizes,  ard  grown  in  all  the  gardens 
of  China  and  Cochin  China. 

Ramatuella  calls  it  Anthemis  grandiflora,  while  Willdenow,  in 
1801,  placed  it  under  the  samr  genus,  but  gave  it  another  spe- 
cific name,  calling  it  Anthemis  artemisiafolia.  Among  other 
botanical  writers  who  described  it,  may  be  mentioned  Moench, 
Ray,  Swett,  Morrison,  Valliant,  Persoon  and  Desfontaines. 

Thus,  while  the  chrysanthemum  culture  of  to-day  is  denom- 
inated a  modern  craze,  it  was  in  olden  times  the  object  of 
more  than  ordinary  interest. 


Oriental  and  European  History.  15 

It  will  be  seen  that  up  to  this  time  a  great  diversity  of  opin- 
ion existed  among  botanists  as  to  its  true  generic  and  specific 
name.  The  writings  of  Joseph  Sabine  afford  much  use- 
ful and  interesting  information  regarding  the  diversity  of 
opinion  as  to  which  genus  the  large-flowering  or  Chinese 
chrysanthemum  belongs.  He  contended  that  the  varieties 
then  known  were  not  the  C.  indicum  of  Linnaeus.  In  his  ex- 
haustive papers  he  gave  an  account  of  his  study  and  research, 
definitely  setting  the  whole  matter  at  rest,  the  result  being 
that  the  small-flowered  varieties  were  C.  indicum,  whereas  the 
large  Chinese  chrysanthemum  of  1789,  and  its  successors, 
were  proved  by  him  to  belong  to  an  entirely  different  species, 
thenceforth  to  be  known  as  C.  Sincnsis. 

The  chrysanthemum,  up  to  1824,  was  distinguished  only  by 
its  form  and  color.  The  Chinese  names,  many  of  which  were 
curious  and  fanciful,  could  only  be  applied  with  uncertainty. 
The  following,  translated  from  the  original  by  Mr.  Reeves, 
will  serve  as  examples  of  the  names  by  which  the  chrysan- 
themum was  known  in  the  Celestial  Empire:  "The  purple 
lily,  the  white  wave  of  autumn,  the  purple  peasant's  tail,  the 
scarlet  robe,  the  yellow  go]d  thread,  the  purple  butterfly,  the 
purple  peasant's  feather,  the  yellow  tiger's  claw,  the  crystal 
wave  and  the  drunken  lady." 

The  Japanese  also,  in  bestowing  names,  follow  the  example 
of  their  neighbors,  and  it  is  not  unusual  to  find  them  exhibit- 
ing varieties  labeled  with  such  names  as  "Mountain  Mist," 
"Autumnal  Cloud,"  and  "Ten  thousand  times  sprinkled 
with  gold." 

A  few  years  afterwards,  as  soon  as  the  French  and  Dutch 
started  in  a  sort  of  floral  hero  worship,  a  new  system  of 
nomenclature  was  brought  into  existence  by  naming  the  plants 
after  the  principal  celebrities  in  their  respective  countries. 
In  1827  a  writer  in  "  Hone's  Table  Book,"  under  the  heading 
of  "Winter  Flowers,''  refers  undoubtedly  to  the  chrysanthe- 


j6  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

mum,  and  adopts  the  pseudonym  of  "Jerry  Blossoms."  The 
writer  also  stated  that  there  was  little  chance  for  its  ripening 
seed,  as  it  bloomed  at  the  commencement  of  winter.  Mr. 
Sabine  was  also  of  the  same  opinion,  and  up  to  this  time  no 
chrysanthemums  had  been  produced  from  seed  in  England. 
We  are  told  by  Mr.  Burbidge,  in  his  very  excellent  work 
upon  chrysanthemums,  that  about  that  year  Isaac  Wheeler, 
gardener  and  porter  of  Magdalen  Hall,  now  Hertford  College, 
Oxford,  raised  the  first  English  seedlings;  and  on  December 
2d,  1832,  Mr.  Wheeler  exhibited  some  of  his  seedlings  in 
London,  and  received  a  silver  Banksian  medal  for  them  as  the 
earliest  chrysanthemums  raised  in  England.  They  were  in- 
significant blooms  compared  with  those  of  the  present  day, 
and  were  referred  to  only  as  a  curiosity.  In  1835  some  seed- 
lings were  raised  in  Norfolk,  which  Mr.  Salter  claims  were 
the  first  ever  produced  in  England.  These  were  grown  by 
Mr.  Short  and  Mr.  Freestone.  The  latter  was  the  more  suc- 
cessful grower,  as  some  varieties  raised  at  that  time  exist  to 
the  present  day. 

It  is  a  noteworthy  fact,  in  connection  with  the  chrysanthe- 
mum, that  the  interest  in  the  flower  has  never  been  allowed  to 
abate.  At  several  periods  of  its  existence  some  unexpected 
development,  or  departure  from  the  ordinary  course,  has  given 
new  impetus  to  its  cultivation,  and  excited  the  curiosity  and 
admiration  of  its  growers,  when  it  might  have  otherwise 
ceased  to  retain  its  hold  upon  their  affections.  In  the  year 
1846  an  instance  of  this  occurred  in  England,  when  the  small- 
flowered  species  known  as  pompon  was  introduced.  In  1843 
the  Horticultural  Society  of  London  sent  Robert  Fortune, 
the  superintendent  of  the  glass  department  of  their  garden, 
to  China,  and,  on  his  return  in  1846,  he  brought  home,  with 
other  curiosities, two  small-flowered  varieties,  known  asChusan 
Daisy.  These  were  at  once  introduced  into  the  Versailles  nur- 
sery and  soon  became  favorites  with  the  French,  their  seed- 


Oriental  and  European  History.  17 

lings  being  more  double  than  the  original.  From  their 
compactness  and  resemblance  to  a  rosette,  they  received  the 
name  of  pompons.  Mr.  Salter  and  Mr.  Fortune  both  say, 
and  they  are  probably  right,  that  from  those  two  varieties  all 
the  pompons  now  in  cultivation  sprung. 

Yet  another,  and  unquestionably  the  greatest  impulse,  was 
given  in  1 860-61,  by  this  same  determined  collector,  when, 
on  his  second  journey  to  the  far  East,  he  sent  to  England 
seven  varieties  much  esteemed  by  the  florists  of  Japan,  which 
created  almost  a  revolution  in  the  chrysanthemum  world  at 
that  time,  and  they  are  to-day  by  far  the  most  popular  sorts- 
grown  upon  the  American  and  European  continents.  Among 
those  first  sent  out,  and  which  still  remain  among  the  best, 
are  Grandiflorum,  Baron  de  Frailly,  Yellow  Dragon  and  Hero 
of  Magdala. 

During  all  the  time  the  chrysanthemum  was  making  such 
rapid  strides,  and  fast  taking  its  place  as  a  favorite  flower  in 
England,  it  made  little  progress  in  France,  to  a  native  of 
which  its  first  introduction  was  due.  A  year  after  Blanchard's 
importation  it  was  grown  in  the  Jardin  des  Plantes,  but,  like 
the  variety  of  Chelsea,  was  but  little  appreciated,  and  nearly 
received  a  similar  fate.  Thirty-six  years  after  the  old  purple 
variety  reached  the  shores  of  France,  there  were  not  more 
than  fifteen  varieties  cultivated,  and  these  of  no  particular 
merit  either  in  form  or  color.  Few  French  florists  at  that 
period  were  interested  in  its  culture,  and  consequently  we 
should  give  due  credit  to  the  English  for  first  appreciating  its 
value  as  an  autumn  flower,  and  giving  it  so  prominent  a  posi- 
tion in  its  early  days. 

This  treatment  by  the  French,  however,  was  not  universal, 
for  Monsieur  Noisette,  who  visited  England  in  1824,  was  pre- 
sented with  twenty-seven  varieties  from  the  gardens  of  the 
horticultural  society.  Another  distinguished  lover  of  horti- 
culture, having  thrown  down  the  sword  for  the  trowel  and 


1 8  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

hoe  had  grown  chrysanthemums  for  some  years  prior  to  that 
date.  This  man,  the  celebrated  Captain  Bernet,  was  without 
doubt  the  first  person  in  Europe  to  raise  the  chrysanthemum 
from  seed,  having  produced  several  fine  varieties  in  the  year 
1827.  Encouraged  by  his  first  success,  which  attached  him 
more  and  more  to  his  favorite  plants,  he  saw  his  collection 
annually  increase  by  the  addition  of  many  new  varieties. 
Three  years  after  this  event  an  experienced  nurseryman  got 
possession  of  an  entire  set  of  Captain  Bernet's  new  chrysan- 
themums, and  propagated  them  for  sale.  Thus  it  was  from 
1830  to  1836  that  his  novelties  were  disseminated  among  the 
plant  dealers  in  Paris  and  abroad.  The  French  chrysan- 
themum growers  are  still  very  proud  of  Captain  Bernet's 
achievements  with  their  favorite  plant,  and  dub  him  with  the 
Washingtonian  appellation  of  "Father  of  the  Chrysanthe- 
mum." There  still  remain  in  commerce  a  few  of  the  varie- 
ties raised  by  him,  but  they  are  gro\vn  more  as  heirlooms  than 
for  any  value  they  possess,  being  catalogued  only  by  a  florist 
who  claims  to  be  a  grandson  of  Captain  Bernet's  old  gardener. 

For  the  past  twenty-five  years  those  French  florists  who 
have  taken  up  the  culture  of  the  chrysanthemum  have  been 
working  at  their  improvement  steadily  and  surely.  They  have 
not  only  produced  varieties  greatly  superior  to  any  of  their 
early  sorts,  but  they  have  been  instrumental  in  producing  va- 
rieties which,  in  brilliancy  of  color,  may  be  said  to  be  unpar- 
alleled. 

The  most  prominent  growers  in  France  of  late  years  are 
Simon  Delaux,  M.  de  Reydellet,  Dr.  Audiguer,  the  producer  of 
Soliel  Levant ;  Mons.  F.  Marranch,  Mons.  J.  M.  Pigny,  Dr. 
Barrie  ;  Victor  Lemoine,  who  raised  Fulgore,  several  pompons 
and  large  flowering  varieties  ;  Mons.  Boulanger,  who  sent  out 
Gloria  de  Mazaryue  and  several  other  sorts  not  generally 
grown  in  this  country,  and  Mons.  Bernard,  who  sent  out 
Gloria  Rayonnante,  M.  Fremy,  Reine  Margot,  and  who  also 


Oriental  and  European  History.  19 

produced  a  few  pompons  ;  Mons.  Boucharlat,  noted  princi- 
pally for  his  pompons,  which  belonged  chiefly  to  the  lilliputian 
class  ;  Mons.  Lacroix — not  to  be  confounded  with  an  amateur 
of  the  same  name — a  comparatively  recent  grower,  whose  best 
known  flowers  are  Parasol,  M'd'lle  Lacroix,  Flocon  de  Neige, 
Jeanne  d'Arc  and  Fabias  de  Mediana ;  Mons.  Marrouch,  to 
whom  we  are  indebted  for  Madame  Clemence  Audiguer,  Mar- 
guerite Marrouch,  Mons.  Marrouch,  Madame  Clos  and  others  ; 
Mons.  Pertuzes,  whose  flowers  are  not  very  well  known  in 
America,  except  Timbal  de  Argent  and  Triumph  de  la  Rue 
des  Chalets. 

In  the  year  1850,  so  far  as  we  can  learn,  those  little  gems, 
the  anemone  pompons,  were  first  shown.  The  first  were 
Eucharis,  Medee,  and  Thisbe,  all  being  distributed  by  M. 
Bonamay,  of  Toulouse. 

The  most  eminent  of  all  the  French  growers  is  Mons.  Simon 
Delaux,  St.  Martin  du  Tauch,  near  Toulouse,  whose  successes 
have  been  most  brilliantly  exhibited  in  the  Japanese  varieties, 
and  to  him  the  author  is  deeply  indebted  for  much  valuable 
information  regarding  his  favorite  flower  in  the  sunny  land  of 
France.  The  name  of  Delaux  is  a  guaranty  of  merit  in  a 
chrysanthemum,  and  his  productions  are  admired  and  culti- 
vated upon  both  hemispheres.  Such  varieties  as  Tokio,  M. 
Boyer,  Royal  Aquarium,  Rose  Laing,  Bouquet  Fait,Eclatarete, 
Jeanne  Delaux,  Mons.  Tarin,  will  long  perpetuate  the  mem- 
ory of  this  noted  cultivator.  It  is  difficult  to  find,  at  any  of 
our  exhibitions,  the  smallest  stand  of  cut  blooms  or  collection 
of  plants  that  does  not  contain  some  originated  by  this  emi- 
nent florist.  Mons.  de  Reydellet  ranks  second  to  his  great 
rival  and  fellow-countryman,  M.  Delaux.  Mons.  Reydellet  is 
not  a  professional  florist,  but  an  amateur  grower  of  new  seed- 
lings, La  Triumphant  and  Marsa  being  two  which  are  well 
known  in  America. 

To  American  growers  it  will  seem  strange  that  such  a  thing 


2O  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

as  a  chrysanthemum  society  does  not  exist  in  France.  We 
quote  from  a  letter  of  Messrs.  Lemoine  and  Fils,  Nancy, 
dated  July  9,  1890,  in  which  they  kindly  give  the  following  in- 
formation :  "We  have  no  chrysanthemum  society  in  France, 
but  the  numerous  horticultural  societies  in  our  country  are 
much  interested  in  chrysanthemums,  and  nearly  every  one 
has  a  chrysanthemum  show  at  the  proper  season.  Pot-grown 
plants  are  generally  exhibited  ;  cut  flowers  in  small  quantities 
only.  Here  we  do  not  grow  the  specimens  for  exhibition,  as 
the  practice  is  in  England  and  America.  We  do  not  care  for 
the  enormous  flowers  that  English  florists  obtain,  or  huge 
plants  with  only  a  few  blooms  upon  them.  Here  the  plants 
are  treated  to  give  the  largest  number  of  blooms,  and  in  the 
most  natural  way.  New  varieties  of  chrysanthemums  are  not 
very  largely  produced  in  France,  except  in  the  southern  por- 
tions. Here  in  Nancy  we  have  a  severe  climate,  and  it  is 
nearly  impossible  to  get  seeds  of  the  double  varieties.  Per- 
sonally, we  have  sent  out  some  good  novelties,  but  the  seed 
that  yielded  them  was  not  our  own.  There  is  no  country 
where  there  is  so  large  a  quantity  of  novelties  raised  annually 
as  in  France.  For  instance,  this  year,  Simon  Delaux,  of  Tolouse, 
offers  24  new  varieties  of  his  own  production  j  M.  de  Reydellet, 
of  Valance,  18  novelties  ;  M.  Louis  Lacroix,  25  varieties;  M. 
Rozain  Boucharlet,  of  Lyons,  14  novelties  ;  M.  Host,  of 
Lyons,  7.  novelties  ;  M.  Santel,  of  Salon,  near  Marseilles,  12 
novelties,  besides  a  number  raised  by  Etienne  Lacroix,  M. 
Bernard,  Pertuzes  and  Audiguer,  of  Tolouse,  and  others.  Over 
two  hundred  novelties  are  annually  produced  in  the  south  of 
France,  principally  of  the  Japanese  and  Chinese  forms." 

From  this  we  note  that  the  large  blooms  and  specimens  of 
plants  so  common  at  our  shows  here  are  not  seen  in  France, 
and,  judging  from  the  schedule  of  prizes  of  some  of  the  dif- 
ferent exhibitions  at  hand,  their  culture  is  not  encouraged. 
The  arrangement  of  plants  for  the  best  effect  is  one  of  the 


Oriental  and  European  History.  21 

leading  points  in  the  award  of  premiums.  The  French  seem 
also  particularly  partial  to  the  Japanese  varieties,  and  ever 
since  their  introduction  by  Mr.  Robert  Fortune,  they  have 
excited  a  great  interest  among  the  florists.  From  1870  to 
1880  there  were  but  few  incurved  flowers  distributed  from 
France,  and  at  that  time  it  seemed  as  if  they  would  excel  all 
other  countries  in  the  production  of  the  Japanese  varieties. 
Happily,  however,  in  our  own  climate,  a  Thorpe  a  Walcott,  a 
Harris,  and  a  Spaulding  have  supplied  our  need,  and  the  pro- 
duction of  these  men  is  eminently  satisfactory  to  the  Ameri- 
can cultivator.  It  will,  however,  be  many  years  even  if  no 
further  advance  be  made  by  the  French,  before  their  contribu- 
tion to  our  collections  will  play  an  insignificant  part  in  our 
gardens  and  exhibition  halls. 

One  great  objection,  frequently,  and  not  without  reason, 
advanced  against  the  French  productions,  is  that  they  are  far 
too  numerous  to  be  uniformly  good,  thus  incurring  a  waste  of 
time  and  money  to  those  who  distribute  them  in  England  and 
America.  It  is  to  be  regretted,  too,  that  the  French  taste, 
though  refined,  differs  from  us  somewhat  in  floriculture.  Had 
their  energies  been  turned  more  to  specimen  plants  and  exhi- 
bition blooms,  or  had  they  learned  to  appreciate  the  value  of 
the  incurved  section,  it  is  difficult  to  imagine  how  great  would 
have  been  the  results  in  these  directions.  They  have,  not- 
withstanding these  ideas,  given  us  a  new  type,  and  one  capa- 
ble of  considerable  development — the  Japanese  anemone,  a 
result  of  intelligent  crossing.  M.  Marrauch,  who  died  a  few 
years  ago,  was  one  of  the  successful  producers  of  this  new 
class.  They  are  at  present  wanting  in  high  tones  of  color, 
compared  with  their  congeners  of  the  common  Japanese  type, 
but  their  number  is  steadily  increasing,  and  if  duly  appreciated 
greater  results  may  be  attained.  Several  new  growers  have 
of  late  come  into  notice  in  France,  and  we  shall  probably  hear 
more  from  their  labors  in  the  future,  as  their  enthusiasm  in 


22  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America, 

the  culture  of   the  chrysanthemum  meets  with  its  due  reward. 

In  the  year  1779  M.  Blanchard,  a  merchant  of  Marseilles, 
imported  three  plants  frem  China,  but  out  of  these  three  only 
one — a  purple  flower — reached  France  alive.  This  is  the  one 
of  which  Ramatuelle  published  an  account,  calling  it,  as  pre- 
viously quoted,  Anthemis  grandiflora,  having  satisfied  himself 
and  the  French  botanists  that  it  could  not  be  the  C.  indicum 
of  Linnaeus.  In  the  following  year  M.  Cels,  a  Parisian  nur- 
seryman of  considerable  repute,  sent  to  the  Royal  Gardens  at 
Kew  what  was  the  first  large-flowering  chrysanthemum  in 
modern  times,  known  either  in  England  or  on  the  continent. 
In  November,  1795,  it  bloomed  at  Chelsea,  at  the  nursery  of 
Messrs.  Colville,  a  firm  much  noted  in  after  years  for  the 
beauty  of  their  chrysanthemums.  No  other  variety  was  known 
for  several  years,  until  1798,  when  between  that  year  and  1808, 
eight  new  varieties  were  imported,  one  by  Mr.  Thomas  Evans 
of  Stepheny,  and  the  remaining  seven  by  Sir  Abraham  Hume. 
To  these  nine  varieties  a  tenth  was  added,  namely  the  change- 
able white,  a  sport  from  the  old  purple  of  1802.  In  1798,  the 
rose  and  buff  were  introduced;  in  1802,  the  golden  yellow, 
and  the  sulphur  yellow;  in  1806,  the  Spanish  brown ;  in  1808, 
the  quilled  white  and  the  large  lilac.  Of  these  the  sulphur 
yellow  was  the  one  imported  by  Mr.  Evans,  and  the  other  seven 
were  imported  through  the  agency  of  Sir  A.  Hume. 

Between  the  years  1808  and  1816,  there  was  another  sus- 
pension of  importations,  but  in  the  latter  year  and  up  to  1823 
there  were  several  new  varieties  introduced.  For  the  first  few 
decades  in  the  present  century  there  was  scarcely  any  plant 
half  so  popular  as  the  Chinese  chrysanthemum,  and  as  it  had 
then  attracted  considerable  attention  and  become  a  favorite 
flower  it  began  to  sell  for  a  high  price.  The  Messrs.  Colville, 
who  were  the  first  to  succeed  in  producing  blooms  of  the  pur- 
ple chrysanthemum — which  it  may  be  easily  imagined  have 
little  resemblance  to  those  we  see  at  the  present  time — were 


Oriental  and  European  History.  23 

as  proud  of  their  success  at  that  period  as  if  they  had  raised  a 
Cullingfordii  or  a  Violet  Rose.  The  interest  of  the  zealous 
gardeners  of  England  having  now  been  excited,  they  were 
induced  to  continue  the  introduction  of  additional  sorts.  Mr. 
John  Reeves,  a  tea  buyer  for  the  East  India  Company,  in 
addition  to  the  two  gentlemen  already  named,  was  among  the 
most  active  men  in  enlarging  the  list.  About  this  period 
others  began  to  take  an  interest,  and  Mr.  Reeves,  who  acted 
as  a  correspondent  at  Canton  of  the  Horticultural  Society, 
sent  to  England  in  1820  twelve  kinds,  so  that  the  next  year 
opened  with  good  prospects  for  those  whose  interest  had 
been  the  cause  of  their  advent.  In  the  autumn  of  that  year 
twelve  varieties,  all  whose  habits  and  character  of  flowers 
were  then  ascertained,  were  grown  in  the  gardens  of  the  Hor- 
ticultural Society  of  London.  Aided  by  the  friendly  exertions 
of  Mr.  Reeves  and  the  commanders  of  the  China  ships,  new 
varieties  were  continually  being  brought  to  England,  though 
unfortunately  many  entire  consignments  were  lost  on  the  way. 
At  the  beginning  of  1824,  twenty-seven  well  known  sorts 
which  had  been  thoroughly  tested  and  approved,  had  been 
represented  in  various  botanical  works.  In  1826  the  Horti- 
cultural Society's  collection  comprised  forty-eight  distinct 
kinds,  four  of  which  were  sports  which  originated  in  Eng- 
land. 

During  the  year  1824,  Mr.  Parks,  who  was  sent  to  China 
by  the  Horticultural  Society,  forwarded  many  varieties  to 
England  at  different  times,  among  which  was  the  Yellow  War- 
atah,  a  variety  entirely  different  from  all  the  others,  and  sup- 
posed to  be  the  precursor  of  the  large-flowered  anemone  sec- 
tion. Up  to  this  date  eighteen  sorts  had  been  engraved  in 
works  like  the  Botanical  Magazine  and  the  Botanical  Register, 
but  with  the  exception  of  one  or  two,  they  have  gradually  dis- 
appeared. Donald  Monroe,  gardener  to  the  Horticultur- 
al Society  some  years  later,  gives  a  list  of  forty-nine  dis- 


24  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

tinct  sorts  of  the  Chinese  varieties,  enumerating  all  the  sorts 
to  which  allusion  has  been  made.  In  the  autumn  of  1825  a 
brilliant  display  of  chrysanthemums  was  held  in  the  Horticul- 
tural Society's  garden  at  Chiswick,  through  the  exertion  of  its 
devoted  secretary,  Mr.  Sabine.  Pot  grown  plants  to  the  num- 
ber of  seven  hundred,  were  in  flower  on  that  occasion.  This 
display  gave  a  great  impetus  to  its  cultivation,  so  that  from 
this  period  the  people  became  fully  awake  to  the  beauty  and 
usefulness  of  the  chrysanthemum,  as  an  invaluable  autumn 
flower. 

Among  those  who  in  after  years  developed  the  chrysanthe- 
mum in  England,  the  name  of  Samuel  Broome  stands  pre- 
eminent. In  1832  he  obtained  employment  as  gardener  at 
the  Inner  Temple,  and  gave  much  attention  to  the  chrysan- 
themum, his  annual  display  acquiring  a  world-wide  reputa- 
tion. He  also  published  a  book,  "  Culture  of  the  Chrysanthe- 
mum," in  1857,  which  was  many  times  reprinted,  and  is  still 
worthy  of  respect  for  its  sound  teachings,  and  should  be  on 
the  shelf  of  every  chrysanthemum  grower. 

The  first  chrysanthemum  exhibition  in  England  was  held  in 
Birmingham  in  1836,  of  which  there  is  but  little  record.  In 
1843  the  people  of  Norwich  also  inaugurated  a  chrysanthe- 
mum show,  but  it  was  not  until  three  years  later  that  the  first 
chrysanthemum  society  of  importance  was  formed. 

In  an  old  fashioned  hostelry  known  as  the  '•'  Rochester  Cas- 
tle," in  a  rural  suburb  of  Stoke  Newington,  where  the  trades- 
men loved  to  gather  every  evening,  a  chrysanthemum  associa- 
tion was  formed,  which  was  the  first  to  endure  to  the  present 
day.  Mr.  Robert  James,  landlord  of  the  "Rochester,"  a 
first  rate  host,  an  able  florist  and  a  man  of  broad  sympathies, 
had  made  chrysanthemums  his  favorites,  and  had  at  that  time 
a  collection  of  twenty-five  sorts  that  he  cared  for  as  pets  and 
of  which  he  was  very  proud.  The  talk  at  the  inn  turned  to 
floriculture,  as  it  often  did,  and  an  exhibition  of  chrysanthe- 


Oriental  and  European  History.  25 

mums  was  determined  upon,  Robert  James  leading  the  move- 
ment as  treasurer  and  advocate  ;  and  he  was  ever  known  as 
father  of  the  first  chrysanthemum  show.  This  association 
was  known  as  the  Stoke  Newington,  later  the  Borough  of 
Hackney  Florists'  Society,  and  still  more  recently,  the  National 
Chrysanthemum  Society.  For  many  years  it  prospered  under 
its  original  name,  which  was  afterwards  discarded  for  that  of 
the  Borough  of  Hackney.  Owing  to  the  large  number  of  new 
members,  and  to  extend  the  sphere  of  the  society's  work,  it 
was  finally  given  the  name  of  the  National  Chrysanthemum 
Society.  This  society,  in  addition  to  the  usual  November 
show,  now  holds  each  year  exhibitions  of  early  flowering 
chrysanthemums,  as  well  as  conducting  exhibitions  in  the 
chief  provincial  cities.  The  society's  official  catalogue  is 
accepted  as  the  standard  for  all  questions  of  classification  and 
nomenclature,  and  is  an  excellent  book  of  reference  for  chrys- 
anthemum growers  in  either  England  or  America. 

As  if  by  magic  every  important  town  in  England  followed 
this  example,  and  at  the  present  time  nearly  every  town  and 
village  has  its  chrysanthemum  show. 

Mr.  John  Salter  also  did  much  to  advance  the  interest  of 
the  autumn  queen  in  England,  his  name  being  to  the  present 
day  most  pleasantly  associated  with  the  chrysanthemum  and 
familiar  to  growers  on  both  sides  of  the  Atlantic.  He  first 
commenced  his  horticultural  career  as  an  amateur  at  Shep- 
herd's Bush,  near  London,  but  afterwards  removed  to  Ver- 
sailles, France,  where  the  climate  was  more  congenial  to  the 
cultivation  of  his  favorite  flower.  He  was  personally  ac- 
quainted with  many  of  the  French  and  other  growers  and 
knew  far  more  of  the  progress  of  foreign  growers  than  any 
man  in  England  in  his  day.  His  work  "The  Chrysanthe- 
mum, Its  History  and  Culture,"  published  twenty-five  years 
ago,  is  still,  notwithstanding  its  age,  a  book  of  much  value. 
From  it  we  learn  that,  finding  the  climate  of  France  more 


26  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

suitable  for  the  purpose  of  raising  seedling  chrysanthemums, 
Mr.  Salter  went  to  Versailles  in  1838  for  the  purpose  of  estab- 
lishing a  nursery  to  enable  him  to  accomplish  his  design.  He 
imported  from  England  most  of  the  Jersey  and  Norfolk  seed- 
lings, to  which  he  added  250  of  the  best  French  sorts,  so  that 
in  1840  the  number  of  varieties  he  had  in  cultivation  amounted 
to  between  300  and  400.  Five  years  after  his  establishment 
in  France,  Mr.  Salter  produced  his  first  seedling,  "Annie  Sal- 
ter," in  the  nursery  at  Versailles,  which  he  sent  out  in  1844, 
and  which  is  well  known  at  the  present  time.  In  1847  the 
"  Queen  of  England"  followed,  which  is  considered  a  good 
variety  to-day,  although  forty  years  old.  The  French  revolu- 
tion of  1848,  with  its  social  changes,  necessitated  Mr.  Salter' s 
return  to  his  native  land,  where  he  died  in  1874. 

Up  to  1865  the  influx  of  the  new  varieties  of  incurved, 
reflexed,  and  large  anemone  flowers  continued,  and  many  of 
our  favorites  appeared  at  the  date,  viz :  Cherub,  John  Salter, 
Lady  Slade,  Nil  Desperandum,  White  Christine,  Cleopatra  and 
others.  The  chrysanthemum  was  now  probably  a  more  popu- 
lar flower  than  ever.  Societies  had  sprung  up  all  over  the 
country,  and  during  November  the  exhibitions  were  thronged 
by  thousands  of  admirers.  Some  years  elapsed  after  the  intro- 
duction of  the  Japanese  sorts  before  they  became  common, 
or  before  seedlings  were  raised  from  the  new  varieties.  They 
were,  however,  not  much  admired  by  old  school  florists,  who 
contemptuously  dubbed  them  "ragged  jacks,"  on  account  of 
their  curious  forms  and  irregular  petals.  It  is  believed  that 
those  originally  introduced  were  Grandiflorum,  Golden 
Dragon,  Bronze  Dragon,  Striatum,  Laciniatum  and  Roseum 
Punctatum.  One  of  these  died  on  the  way,  but  \vas  afterwards 
reproduced  from  seed  of  the  survivors.  Previous  to  the  year 
1866,  no  seedlings  were  distributed  from  the  Japanese  sorts, 
and  probably  the  first  of  them  were  Aurantium,  Countess  de 
Boregard,  Gold  Thread,  Mad.  Godilott,  Tarantula,  and 


Oriental  and  European  History.  27 

Tycoon.  The  varieties  belonging  to  this  section  were  in 
those  days  rather  inclined  to  be  later  bloomers  than  the  chrys- 
anthemums generally  grown.  By  some  they  were  looked 
upon  as  likely  to  be  serviceable  for  conservatory  decoration, 
but  fit  for  nothing  else,  as  their  defiance  of  all  canons  of  good 
taste  placed  them  quite  beyond  the  pale  of  .a  flower  show  • 
and  there  were  not  a  few  who  regarded  them  as  veritable 
abominations,  judged  by  the  chrysanthemum  fancy  then  in 
vogue. 

Now  that  the  present  generation  have  become  accustomed 
to  the  fantastic  form  of  these  wonderful  floral  triumphs,  and 
their  brilliancy  of  color,  to  which  the  chrysanthemum  owes 
much  of  its  popularity  at  the  present  day,  it  is  amusing  to 
read  what  was  prophesied  about  them  twenty-three  years  ago. 
A  correspondent  in  the  Florist  and  Pomologist  in  1866  says: 
"  I  fear  that  the  new  Japanese  flowers  recently  introduced  by 
Mr.  Fortune  will  scarcely  become  favorites  with  any  of  us. 
They  are  loose,  ungainly  looking  things,  with  colors  by  no 
means  attractive,  and  the  less  said  about  their  form  the  bet- 
ter. They  may  possibly  be  turned  by-and-by  to  account  by 
the  hybridizers  ;  but  as  a  class,  unless  there  can  be  some  very 
marked  improvements  in  them,  they  will  soon  be  discarded." 

What  has  been  the  result  ?  Out  of  the  original  seven,  five 
have  remained  in  cultivation  to  the  present  day,  and  two  of 
these,  Grandiflorum  and  Golden  Dragon,  rank  among  the  best 
that  have  been  produced  since.  In  view  of  such  a  revolution 
as  this,  prophetic  words  for  the  future  must  be  given  with  a 
due  regard  to  the  fickle  tastes  of  the  public. 

In  1866,  Mr.  George  Glenny,  writing  of  form  in  the  chrys- 
anthemum, says  :  "  The  flower  ought  in  form  to  be  one-half  or 
two-thirds  of  a  sphere,  the  center  compact  and  outline  round, 
the  whole  face  symmetrical  and  close,  and  the  petals  free  from 
notches  at  the  end.  The  reflexed  petal  is  inferior  to  the 
cupped  or  incurved,  but  if  the  flower  be  of  proper  form  when 


28  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

shown  it  loses  only  one  point."  Such  was  the  standard  of 
excellence  in  the  "good  old  times  "  for  a  chrysanthemum,  but 
now  it  is  far  removed  from  what  Mr.  Glenny  describes  as  his 
ideal.  In  England,  however,  the  incurved  and  reflexed  varie- 
ties are  still  justly  popular,  but  with  us  the  "Jap"  is  still 
supreme.  We  will  not  attempt  to  peer  into  the  future  ;  popu- 
lar taste  is  too  inconstant,  and  the  successful  grower  who 
would  see  the  chrysanthemum  maintain  its  present  foremost 
position  must  be  ever  ready  to  avail  himself  of  new  ideas  in 
seeding,  growing  and  showing,  and  attracting  public  atten- 
tion in  some  way  to  the  beauty  and  usefulness  of  the  flower. 

In  1 88 1,  Messrs.  Veitch  &  Sons  of  London  imported  from 
Japan  six  new  sorts,  called  Ben  d'  Or,  Comte  de  Germiny, 
Duchess  of  Connaught,  Thunberg,  and  others,  all  of  which  are 
well  known.  Messrs.  Mahood  &  Son  were  also  successful  in 
raising  some  very  fine  seedlings  in  England,  as  were  Mr.  Run- 
die,  Mr.  Bull,  Mr.  Cullingford,  Mr.  N.  Davis,  Mr.  George 
Stevens,  and  Mr.  Teedesdale,  whose  flowers  can  be  found 
described  in  any  catalogue  of  chrysanthemums.  The  names 
also  of  Joseph  Dale,  Isaac  Wheeler,  Edwin  Merry,  Robert 
James,  Adam  Forsyth,  George  Taylor  and  George  Glenny 
will  long  be  remembered  in  the  chrysanthemum  lore  of  Eng- 
land for  their  devotion  to  this  favorite  flower.  Happily  the 
succeeding  generation  has  produced  men  to  take  up  their 
labors,  and  the  admirers  of  the  autumn  queen  have  suffered 
little  in  the  change.  With  such  men  as  Mr.  C.  Harman 
Payne,  a  master  of  the  literature  of  the  subject,  and  Mr. 
Edwin  Molyneaux,  the  champion  grower  of  cut  flowers,  Mr. 
Wm.  Holmes,  Mr.  C.  Ochard,  and  Mr.  Robert  Owen  in  the 
lead,  we  may  expect  to  see  great  results. 

Considerable  attention  has  also  been  given  the  chrysanthe- 
mum in  the  islands  of  the  English  Channel.  In  1836  Mons. 
Lebois,  an  amateur  in  Jersey,  turned  his  attention  to  the  rais- 
ing of  seedlings,  and  produced  some  marked  improvements. 


Oriental  and  European  History.  29 

He  was  so  extraordinarily  fortunate  in  their  cultivation  that 
he  raised  upwards  of  five  hundred  seedlings,  which  he  sold  to 
Mr.  Chandler,  of  the  Vauxhall  nurseries,  and  a  considerable 
number  of  them  were  known  twenty-five  years  ago. 

According  to  a  correspondent  of  Mr.  Burbridge,  the  pro- 
ducer of  the  first  seedlings  in  the  Channel  Islands,  was  a  baker, 
and  had  his  plants  trained  to  the  wall  behind  the  oven.  Oth- 
ers soon  followed,  among  them  Messrs.  Clarke,  Davis,  Peth- 
ers,  Smith  and  Wolsley,  while  in  latter  years,  Mr.  Dawnton 
and  Major  Carey  have  contributed  some  very  favorite  sorts. 
In  Mr.  Salter's  catalogue  of  chrysanthemums  more  than  half 
appeared  to  be  of  Guernsey  and  Jersey  origin.  Our  friends 
in  the  Channel  Islands  have  done  but  little  in  recent  years, 
compared  with  their  former  efforts,  in  raising  new  seedlings, 
although  it  is  not  entirely  neglected.  Mr.  Smith  has  long 
since  discontinued  the  growing  of  crnysanthemums  from  seed. 
Mr.  Pethers,  who  went  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  seemed 
not  to  have  resumed  its  culture  upon  his  return,  and  Mr. 
Clarke  has  been  dead  for  several  years.  Mr.  Davis,  whose 
name  is  deserving  of  more  than  a  passing  notice  from  having 
obtained  Prince  Alfred,  Prince  of  Wales  and  Princess  of 
Wales,  no  longer  devotes  himself  to  the  work.  Mr.  James 
Dawnton,  the  raiser  of  Elaine  and  Fair  Maid  of  Guernsey, 
will  be  longest  remembered  of  the  Channel  Island  growers. 
Notwithstanding  the  lull  in  seedling  growing  at  present,  the 
chrysanthemum  still  has  many  friends  and  cultivators  in  these 
islands.  Their  first  exhibition  was  held  in  1865. 

Belgium  had  its  first  chrysanthemum  show  in  the  autumn 
of  1866,  which  was  organized  by  the  Royal  Agricultural 
Society  of  Ghent,  and  has  been  repeated  in  succeeding  years, 
others  having  followed  at  Liego,  Antwerp,  and  Tournay. 

It  is  a  matter  of  some  difficulty  to  trace  the  work  of 
chrysanthemum  culture  in  Germany,  but  it  is  safe  to  assume 
that  it  was  of  some  importance  there  in  1832,  and  has,  we 


30  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

believe,  been  steadily  gaining  in  favor  to  the  present  time. 
It  is  not  generally  known  that  the  first  independent  work  on 
the  chrysanthemum  was  written  by  a  German,  who  had  a  col- 
lection of  the  new  flowers,  in  which  were  comprised  most,  if 
not  all,  those  in  cultivation  in  England  and  France,  all  of 
which  are  carefully  described. 

Up  to  the  year  1854  no  universal  standard  of  merit  in  the 
blooms  was  adopted,  every  one  having  his  own  peculiar  ideas 
of  a  good  flower.  A  standard  at  that  time  adopted  by  the 
Stoke  Newington  Chrysanthemum  Society,  which  was  the 
same  as  that  suggested  by  Mr.  Glenny. 


CHAPTER    II. 


American  History. 

riUS  far  we  have  hurriedly  glanced  at  the  early  his- 
tory of  the  chrysanthemum  in  the  far  east,  in  Eng- 
land, in  France  and  the  Channel  Islands,  and  now 
the  author  comes  home  to  our  own  chrysanthemums, 
with  all  their  profusion  of  beauty.  Their  size,  form,  and 
color  are  probably  unequalled  in  their  original  home  in  the  far 
east.  They  are  so  refined  by  crossing,  and  strengthened  by 
climate  and  culture,  that  their  superiority  has  been  univer- 
sally acknowledged.  Never  before  during  its  history  has  the 
cultivator  been  able  to  produce  anything  as  fine  as  the  blooms 
that  are  now  raised  beneath  American  skies  and  shown  in 
the  exhibition  halls  of  our  large  cities. 

The  climate  of  the  northern  states  is  more  conducive  to  the 
growth  of  individual  plants  under  the  care  of  the  diligent  cul- 
tivator. More  care  has  to  be  exercised  through  the  long  dry 
summers  of  the  south  to  produce  fine  specimens,  but  as  an 
out-door  flower,  adapted  to  the  gardens  of  all,  one  must  go  to 
the  southern  states  to  see  them  in  their  wild  and  promiscuous 
beauty. 

It  must  have  been  long  after  the  landing  of  the  Pilgrim 
fathers  that  the  chrysanthemum  reached  our  shores,  after  a 
checkered  voyage  from  the  far  east,  probably  about  the  year 

(31) 


32  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

1810,  perhaps  earlier ;  but  at  that  time  it  obtained  little  atten- 
tion, as  its  beauties  were  undeveloped  and  its  praises  unsung. 
Its  early  history  upon  our  continent  is  lost,  and  it  is  not  pos- 
sible to  say  with  any  certainty  who  first  cultivated  it  in  the 
the  new  world. 

What  little  antiquity  we  have  in  America  in  relation  to  the 
chrysanthemum  clusters  around  the  classic  precincts  of  "  The 
Hub,"  although  if  record  could  be  found,  the  writer  is  confi- 
dent that  several  old  North  and  South  Carolina,  as  well  as 
Virginia  gardens,  might  justly  dispute  the  claim,  as  we  find 
from  < '  the  oldest  inhabitant ' '  that  a  variety  of  the  small  yellow 
chrysanthemum  was  common  in  each  of  those  places  eighty 
years  ago.  These  points  in  the  history  of  our  favorite  flower 
must  long  remain  a  matter  of  conjecture,  but  that  it  has  come, 
and  come  to  stay,  is  a  matter  long  since  past  discussion. 
Being  cultivated  in  England  in  1795,  not  a  long  period  could 
have  elapsed  before  it  became  known  in  America. 

The  florists  of  our  large  eastern  cities  were  always  so  active 
in  obtaining  novelties  from  their  eastern  correspondents,  that 
it  was  doubtless  but  a  few  years  from  the  time  of  its  introduc- 
tion into  England  until  its  roots  were  firmly  planted  in  Ameri- 
can soil. 

For  many  years  it  obtained  much  less  attention  than  in  the 
countries  of  the  old  world.  Within  the  past  twenty  years, 
however,  the  popularity  of  the  flower  has  advanced  at  a  steady 
rate  until  it  is  now  supreme  in  the  home  garden,  the  exhibi- 
tion hall  and  the  conservatory.  With  such  a  command  of 
climate  as  the  American  continent  affords,  the  entire  culture 
has  been  thoroughly  mastered,  including  the  propagation  by 
seed.  Its  wonderful  development  in  the  past  ten  years,  in  the 
hands  of  American  cultivators,  is  phenemonal  for  so  brief  a 
period.  Though  beginning  so  recently,  we  are  rapidly  becom- 
ing rivals  of  the  countries  in  which  it  originated. 

Ten  years   ago   but   few  chrysanthemums  were   cultivated 


American  History,  33 

here,  and  those  were  probably  imported  from  England.  Now 
all  is  changed,  and  importations  from  China  and  Japan  are 
easily  and  frequently  made,  seedlings  are  raised  the  equal  of 
any  in  the  old  world,  and  new  kinds,  as  they  appear,  are 
introduced  from  Europe.  Thus  American  chrysanthemum 
fanciers  are  supplied  at  the  present  day  with  each  new  and 
bcrjji'ciful  variety  as  soon  as  it  appears  regardless  of  the  source 
from  whicn  it  comes. 

With  such  a  wealth  of  charms,  both  native  and  exotic, 
annually  unfolded  before  a  people  with  whom  beauty  and 
merit  are  so  quickly  appreciated,  it  is  not  so  surprising  to  find 
that  the  chrysanthemum  has  extended  in  a  few  years  into 
every  portion  of  our  country.  In  all  sections  the  chrysanthe- 
mum is  now  a  reigning  favorite,  and  American  florists  claim  a 
fair  share  of  credit  in  developing  its  beauties. 

The  first  name  to  be  mentioned  in  connection  with  chrysan- 
themum history  in  America  is  that  of  Dr.  H.  P.  Walcott,  of 
Cambridge,  Mass.,  who  was  the  first  American,  either  ama- 
teur or  professional,  to  raise  new  seedlings  of  our  favorite 
flower.  His  first  seedlings  were  produced  in  1879  from  seed 
ripened  in  his  own  garden,  and  were  exhibited  in  Boston  in 
the  autumn  of  that  year,  at  the  show  of  the  Massachusetts 
Horticultural  Society,  where  they  attracted  but  little  atten- 
tion. Dr.  Walcott  has  since  that  time  exhibited  more  or  less 
every  year,  and  has  usually  raised  about  three  hundred  seed- 
lings each  season,  many  of  which  have  received  the  highest 
awards  of  the  exhibition,  such  as  medals  and  certificates  of 
merit.  As  Dr.  Walcott  is  not  a  professional  florist,  but  one 
of  those  who  engages  in  this  work  as  a  labor  of  love,  he  does 
not  make  it  a  matter  of  business  to  distribute  his  novelties, 
so  that  they  have  not  become  very  prominent  until  the  past 
two  years,  when  Messrs.  Pitcher  &  Manda,  of  Short  Hills, 
New  Jersey,  offered  them  in  their  special  and  extensive  cata- 
logue of  chrysanthemums.  Most  of  these  varieties  are  of 


34  Chrysanthemum   Culture  for  America. 

decided  merit,  and  have  met  with  the  approval  they  so  well 
deserve.  The  following  is  a  list  of  those  which  Dr.  Walcott 
considers  his  best  : 

R.  Walcott,  Shasta,  Savannah,  Wenonah,  Monadnock, 
Semiramis,  Alaska,  Pontiac,  Ramona,  Nevada,  Cambridge, 
Tacoma. 

As  will  be  seen  from  the  names  of  his  seedlings,  Dr.  Wal- 
cott has  started  a  reform  in  chrysanthemum  nomenclature 
that  deserves  the  attention  of  all  raisers  of  new  varieties. 
The  names  should  be  as  short  as  possible,  and  such  names  as 
Alaska,  Shasta  and  Cortez  are  preferable  to  such  lengthy 
appellations  as  Bronze,  Queen  of  England,  Hero  of  Stokes 
Newington,  or  Monsieur  le  Comte  de  Faucher  de  Cariel ;  and 
to  have  names  that  can  be  written  on  one  label,  is  of  itself  a 
great  convenience. 

The  name  of  Wm.  K.  Harris,  of  Philadelphia,  also  figures 
prominently  among  the  pioneers  of  chrysanthemum  culture 
on  this  side  of  the  Atlantic,  and  it  is  safe  to  say  that  within 
the  past  ten  years  Mr.  Harris  has  produced  more  varieties 
which  are  now  considered  standard  kinds  than  all  our  other 
growers  together.  His  first  seedling  of  merit,  Mrs.  Wm. 
Sheaf er,  was  sent  out  in  1881,  and  was  awarded  a  certificate 
of  merit  by  the  Pennsylvania  Horticultural  Society,  and  in  1882, 
he  sent  out  White  Dragon,  which  was  awarded  a  certificate  of 
merit  by  the  Royal  Chrysanthemum  Society  of  England  in 
1886.  In  1885,  Mr.  H.  Waterer  sent  out  Puritan,  Miss  C.  Har- 
ris, John  M.  Hughes,  Miss  Meredith,  and  Mrs.  R.  Mason, 
and  in  1886,  Wonderful,  Robt.  Crawford,  Mrs.  John  Wana- 
maker,  Thos.  Cartledge,  Alfred  Warne,  Mrs.  Anthony 
Waterer  and  Lucrece,  all  of  which  were  produced  by  Mr. 
Harris.  Each  senson  his  productions  were  increasing,  so 
that  in  1887,  Mr.  Robt.  Craig  came  to  the  assistance  of  Mr. 
Waterer  in  disseminating  the  productions  of  this  eminent 
grower.  During  that  year  Mr.  Craig  sent  out  L.  Canning, 


American  History.  35 

Beauty  of  Kingsessing,  Elkshorn,  Mrs.  G.  W.  Coleman, 
Mrs.  A.  Blanc,  and  Mrs.  Wm.  Howell,  while  Mr.  Waterer 
distributed  Wm.  Dewar,  Public  Ledger,  Stars  and  Stripes, 
Magnet,  Mont  Blanc,  Colossal,  Mrs.  Sam  Houston  and  Miss 
Anna  Hartshorne.  Mrs.  Joel.  J.  Bailey,  which  won  the  fifty 
dollar  silver  cup  offered  by  the  Pennsylvania  Horticultural  So- 
ciety, was  also  sent  out  this  year.  In  1888,  Mr.  Craig  sent  out 
Sunnyside,  Mrs.  T.  C.  Price,  Mrs.  M.  J.  Thomas,  Mrs.  John 
N.  May,  W.  W.  Coles,  Mrs.  A.  C.  Burpee  and  others,  while 
in  this  same  year,  Mr.  Waterer  distributed  Excellent  and 
Robt.  Craig,  also  from  the  hands  of  Mr.  Harris,  and  in  1889, 
he  sent  Mrs.  W.  K.  Harris — which  took  first  prize  for  best 
seedling  offered  by  the  Pennsylvania  Horticultural  Society — 
Violet  Rose,  Ivory,  Mrs.  Irving  Clark,  Advance,  Mountain  of 
Snow,  Miss  Mary  Wheeler  and  others  too  numerous  too  allow 
individual  mention.  This  year  Messrs.  Hill  &  Co.,  of  Richmond* 
Ind.,  sent  out  of  his  raising  C.  A.  Reeser,  John  Lane,  Mrs. 
Winthrop  Sargent,  Carry  Denny,  Reward,  Model,  Twilight 
and  White  Cap.  The  colors  and  tints  which  were  unknown 
in  this  flower  a  decade  ago  are  now  found  in  all  of  these  varie- 
ties. Maroons,  crimsons,  rose,  pink  and  buff  have  become 
more  decided,  and  with  such  progress  as  this  in  another 
decade,  the  production  of  a  scarlet  flower  is  not  to  be  de- 
spaired of  by  those  who  have  done  most  in  our  favored  climate 
to  bring  out  the  newer  and  formerly  unknown  shades. 

In  1883,  Mr.  H.  Waterer,  of  Philadelphia,  brought  an 
importation  from  Japan  of  some  fifty  varieties,  many  of  which 
were  most  distinct  and  beautiful,  which  gave  a  new  impulse 
to  hybridizing,  as  from  that  time  to  the  present,  the  new 
kinds  that  have  appeared  annually  are  almost  numberless. 
Among  those  imported  from  Japan  by  Mr.  Waterer,  we  find 
the  following  very  excellent  sorts  :  Gloriosum,  Mrs.  C.  H. 
Wheeler,  Marvel,  J.  Collins,  Duchess,  H.  Waterer,  Pres. 
Arthur,  Snowstorm,  Mrs.  Geo.  Bullock,  Mrs.  Vannaman,  The 


36  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

Bride,    Hon.    John   Welsh,    Jessica,    Mrs.    Frank    Thomson, 
and  others. 

As  another  successful  raiser  of  chrysanthemums,  the  name 
of  Mr.  T.  H.  Spaulding,  of  Orange,  N.  J.,  will  long  hold  an 
important  place  among  the  chrysanthemum  growers  in 
America.  This  gentleman  sent  out  his  first  seedling  in  1886, 
and  each  year  since  then  many  excellent  varieties  of  his  pro- 
duction have  been  placed  upon  the  market.  In  1888  he  sent 
out  Geo.  McClure,  Mrs.  John  Pettit,  Cloth  of  Gold,  Eleanor 
Oakley,  E.  S.  Renwick,  Gladys  Spaulding,  Juno,  R.  E.  Jen- 
nings and  others.  In  1889,  George  Atkinson,  Commotion, 
Tusaka,  Takaki,  Mrs.  Judge  Benedict,  We  Wa,  Brynwood, 
and  many  others  were  produced  and  disseminated  by  Mr. 
Spaulding,  and  during  the  present  year  the  new  English  prize 
chrysanthemum,  Mrs.  S.  Coleman,  and  his  own  seedling,  Ada 
Spaulding,  are  being  distributed.  The  latter  was  awarded  the 
National  prize  in  November,  1889,  presented  by  Mrs.  President 
Harrison,  at  Indianapolis  ;  also  a  certificate  of  merit  by  the 
Pennsylvania  Horticultural  Society  ;  first  premium  by  the  New 
Jersey  Horticultural  Society,  and  medal  of  excellence  by  the 
American  Institute,  N.  Y.  It  is  a  cross  between  Puritan  and 
Mrs.  Wanamaker  ;  of  robust  habit ;  a  rich  deep  pink,  shading  in 
upper  portion  to  the  purest  pearl  white  ;  globular  in  shape  and 
neither  Japanese  nor  Chinese  in  form.  Mr.  Spaulding  is  also 
introducing  this  year  the  following  varieties  of  his  own  grow- 
ing :  Addie  Decker,  Maria  Ward,  Garnet,  Mrs.  Thomas  A. 
Edison,  Jas.  R.  Pitcher,  Cyclone,  Zenobie,  and  others. 

The  following  varieties,  the  first  five  imported  from  Japan 
by  Mr.  John  Thorpe,  and  the  others  grown  by  him,  were  also 
first  distributed  by  Mr.  Spaulding  :  G.  F.  Moseman,  Mrs.  T. 
H.  Spaulding,  Sokoto,  Leopard,  Mrs.  J.  N.  Gerard  ;  Pauline, 
Coronet,  Dango  Zaka,  G.  P.  Rawson  and  Peculiarity,  together 
with  Miss  Sue  Waldron  and  Snowdrift,  grown  by  Mr.  J.  N. 
Gerard,  of  Elizabeth,  N.  J.,  and  Sunset,  Mrs.  Wm.  Barr,  MI.<JS 


J 
American  History.  37 

Alice  Brown,  and  Fannie  Block,  grown  by  William  Barr,  of 
Orange,  N.  J.  There  are  also  many  other  excellent  varieties, 
either  raised  or  disseminated  by  Mr.  Spaulding,  that  chrysan- 
themum lovers  now  enjoy,  several  of  the  seedlings  of  Messrs. 
Lord,  Allen  and  Hollis  being  among  them. 

There  is  no  commercial  house  in  New  England  more  favor- 
ably known  to  chrysanthemum  growers  than  that  of  E.  Fewkes 
&  Sons,  of  Newton  Highlands,  Mass.  At  one  time  these  gen- 
tlemen held  the  entire  stock  of  Mrs.  Alpheus  Hardy,  and  were 
the  first  to  flower  and  exhibit  it  in  America  ;  they  still  retain 
the  silver  medal  awarded  to  its  first  bloom  by  the  Massachu- 
setts Horticultural  Society.  It  was  also  from  this  bloom  the 
first  cut  was  made  that  illustrated  the  horticultural  papers 
and  catalogues  at  that  time. 

The  first  varieties  offered  in  1868  by  Messrs.  Fewkes 
met  with  but  little  sale,  and  out  of  their  entire  collection^ 
we  are  informed,  the  variety  White  Treveana,  a  small 
double  white  flower,  was  the  only  one  that  commanded 
even  a  passing  attention.  The  house  of  Edwin  Fewkes  & 
Sons  has  steadily  kept  pace  with  the  increasing  interest  in  the 
chrysanthemum,  and  to  their  skill  as  growers  and  enterprise 
as  importers  we  are  indebted  for  the  following  excellent  varie- 
ties :  Wm.  H.  Lincoln,  Kioto,  Neesima,  Lilian  B.  Bird,  Mrs. 
Fottler,  Belle  Hickey,  Emmie  Ricker,  Nippon  Medusa,  S.  B. 
Dana,  Marian,  Clarence,  Bryant,  Emily  Selinger,  Flora, 
Nahanton,  H.  A.  Gane,  Jno.  Webster,  James  F.  Mann,  Liz- 
zie Gannon,  Pres.  Hyde,  and  chief  of  all,  the  far-famed  Mrs. 
Alpheus  Hardy. 

The  enterprise  also  of  Messrs.  Pitcher  &  Manda,  of  Short 
Hills,  N.  J.,  has  given  much  to  the  lovers  of  chrysanthemums 
on  this  continent.  In  1889  this  firm  imported  from  Japan 
and  distributed  the  following  varieties  :  Rohallion,  Passaic, 
Kansas,  Arizona,  Ithaca,  Raleigh,  Jean  Humphreys,  and  Mrs. 
Cornelius  Vanderbilt.  The  following  of  their  own  production 


38  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

have  also  been  distributed  :  Bohemia,  Indiana,  lona,  Iowa, 
Iroquois,  Oneida,  Mohawk,  Virginia,  Pequot,  Minnewawa, 
Connecticut  and  Mrs.  DeWitt  Smith.  It  was  this  firm  also 
that  secured  the  entire  stock  of  Mrs.  Alpheus  Hardy  from 
Edwin  Fewkes  &  Son,  and  first  distributed  it  to  the  public. 

The  progress  of  chrysanthemum  growing  in  America  can 
not  well  be  written  without  mention  of  the  firm  of  V.  H. 
Hallock  &  Son,  Queens,  Long  Island.  To  these  gentlemen 
we  owe  the  origin  of  many  excellent  sorts,  to  the  number  of 
which  they  are  constantly  adding,  as  is  evidenced  by  the  list 
of  new  varieties  that  are  offered  annually  to  the  public  through 
their  catalogues.  This  year  (1890)  they  offer  twenty  new  varie- 
ties in  one  collection  for  the  first  time.  Among  the  varieties 
which  they  have  been  instrumental  in  giving  to  the  public  are 
Mrs.  Langtry,  W.  Falconer,  Whirlwind,  Pagoda,  Sadie  Mar- 
tinot,  Frank  Wilcox,  T.  F.  Martin,  Moonfiower,  Mrs.  Cleve- 
land, F.  T.  McFadden,  Mrs.  Potter,  Edwin  Booth,  Prince 
Kamoutska  and  V.  H.  Hallock. 

The  name  of  John  Thorpe  is  well  known  to  chrysanthemum 
lovers  throughout  America,  as  well  as  in  England.  While 
associated  with  Messrs.  Hallock  &  Son,  he  produced  some 
excellent  varieties,  and  sent  out  his  first  seedlings  in  1883. 
He  is  to-day  the  leading  spirit  in  the  progress  of  chrysanthe- 
mum culture  in  this  country.  Since  he  severed  his  connec- 
tion with  the  firm  of  Hallock  &  Son  and  located  at  Pearl 
River,  in  the  same  state,  he  has  perhaps  given  chrysanthe- 
mums more  attention  than  at  any  other  period  of  his  life. 

Through  his  instrumentality  the  National  Chrysanthemum 
Society  of  America  was  organized  in  1889,  a  society  of  which 
he  has  the  honor  of  being  president.  Mr.  Thorpe  was  the 
producer  of  that  most  desirable  variety,  Mrs.  Andrew  Carnegie, 
winner  of  the  Carnegie  Silver  Cup  in  New  York  in  1888,  which 
is  one  of  the  best  of  its  color  at  the  present  time.  It  is  a 
matter  of  the  deepest  regret  to  the  writer  that  he  has  not  been 


American  History.  39 

able  to  elicit  from  Mr.  Thorpe  more  information  regarding  his 
seedlings,  and  other  matters  of  interest  in  connection  with 
chrysanthemum  history  in  the  United  States,  of  which  we  are 
sure  he  has  a  wealth  of  information. 

While  the  culture  of  the  chrysanthemum  has  extended  to 
every  state  and  territory,  the  work  of  producing  new  varieties 
is  confined  to  a  very  limited  area.  Perhaps  nowhere  in 
America  are  more  chrysanthemums  grown  than  in  the  vicinity 
of  Philadelphia,  where  the  climate  seems  to  be  particularly 
well  suited  to  their  highest  development.  The  amateurs  and 
professional  gardeners  around  the  Quaker  City  have  produced 
many  desirable  kinds.  Thomas  Monahan,  a  private  gar- 
dener produced  last  season  an  admirable  variety,  which  he 
named  in  honor  of  President  Harrison.  Thomas  Carey, 
Henry  Surman,  Wm.  Jamiesoii  and  James  McCleary,  all 
private  gardeners,  are  growers  of  importance  in  Philadelphia. 
W.  C.  Pyfer,  formerly  of  Lancaster,  in  the  same  state,  has 
produced  many  seedlings  of  merit,  but  he  is  now  located  in 
California,  where  we  trust  the  good  work  will  go  on,  and  be 
even  more  successful. 

With  the  exception  of  a  small  portion  of  Indiana,  the  chrys- 
anthemum raising  section  of  America  does  not  extend  over  an 
area  of  two  hundred  square  miles.  A  belt  of  country  from 
Boston,  Mass.,  taking  in  a  portion  of  New  York  and  New 
Jersey  to  Philadelphia,  would  comprise  the  nursery  from 
which  is  disseminated  all  that  is  new  and  beautiful  in  Ameri- 
can seedlings.  The  west  has  but  little  to  add  in  new  varie- 
ties, excepting  some  importations  of  Messrs.  Hill  &  Co.,  of 
Richmond,  Ind.,  and  a  number  of  seedlings  from  Messrs. 
Rieman  and  Dorner  in  the  same  state.  What  is  lacking  in 
the  west,  however,  in  the  production  of  new  varieties,  is  amply 
atoned  for  by  the  superior  development  of  the  varieties  of 
eastern  birth,  as  is  demonstrated  at  such  exhibitions  as  are 
held  at  Chicago,  Indianapolis  and  Cincinnati ;  and  with 


40  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

such  a  name  as  that  of  John  Lane  at  the  front,  we  may 
expect  much  from  the  west  in  the  not  distant  future.  Mr. 
Lane  is  a  retired  business  man,  an  enthusiastic  amateur  in 
chrysanthemum  culture,  and  treasurer  of  the  National  Chrys- 
anthemum Society.  He  has  extensive  grounds  and  several 
greenhouses,  from  which  his  friends  and  neighbors  reap  the 
benefit,  for  his  flowers  are  distributed  with  the  most  lavish 
generosity.  His  critical  notes  on  varieties  and  culture,  writ- 
ten in  a  style  wholly  his  own,  always  receive  great  attention. 
The  chrysanthemum  has  been  exhibited  at  the  shows  of  the 
Massachusetts  Horticultural  Society  in  Boston  since  1830. 
The  list  varieties  exhibited  at  that  time  was  as  follows  :  Quilled 
Flame,  Curled  Lilac,  Tasseled  White,  Golden  Lotus,  Large 
Lilac,  Changeable  Buff,  Paper  White,  Crimson,  Pink,  Lilac, 
White,  Semi-quilled  White,  Parks,  Small  Yellow,  Golden 
Yellow,  Quilled  Lilac,  and  Quilled  White,  these  being  exhib- 
ited by  Robt.  L.  Emmons  of  Boston,  then  recording  Sec- 
retary of  the  Society,  and  Nathaniel  Davenport.  The  plants 
were  spoken  of  as  grown  in  the  open  ground,  and  evidence  is 
given  that  that  the  number  of  varieties  at  this  period  was 
very  small.  They  were  exhibited  on  the  2oth  -of  November, 
and  reported  in  the  New  England  Farmer  of  November  26th, 
1830. 


CHAPTER    III. 


Propagation. 

THE  propagation  of  the  chrysanthemum  by  cuttings  is 
the  system  adopted  in  every  country  in  which  it  is 
grown.  New  varieties  and  the  single  sorts  are  pro- 
duced from  seed.  Old  plants  may  also  be  divided  to 
increase  the  stock,  with  comparative  success,  but  propaga- 
tion by  cuttings  is  the  method  universally  adopted,  and  is  by 
far  the  most  satisfactory.  Chrysanthemum  cuttings  root  so 
freely  that  few  growers  give  the  subject  the  attention  it 
deserves.  In  most  cases  the  cuttings  are  taken  with  little 
regard  to  quality,  and  planted  where  they  will  root  most 
quickly  with  the  least  amount  of  trouble.  This  method  of 
course  may  serve  the  purpose  where  the  finest  chrysanthe- 
mums are  not  expected,  but  in  order  to  obtain  the  best  pos- 
sible results,  strict  attention  must  be  paid  to  every  detail  of 
their  culture.  It  is  of  the  first  importance  that  we  commence 
operations  with  good  material,  that  as  perfect  a  foundation 
as  possible  may  be  laid  for  future  success.  There  are  so 
many  adversities  to  beset  the  grower  through  the  long  months 
of  culture,  that  the  start  should  be  made  under  the  most 
favorable  circumstances. 

It  is  possible  to  produce  flowers  of  the  finest  quality  upon  plants 
that  are  propagated  at  any  time  from  December  to  May,  but  as 

(41) 


42  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

a  rule  the  cuttings  started  in  February  and  March  give 
the  finest  results.  When  plants  are  propagated  early,  as 
in  November  and  December,  there  is  a  long  dormant  sea- 
son through  which  the  young  plants  are  compelled  to  pass, 
during  which  the  wood  becomes  hardened  to  a  dangerous 
degree,  and  they  also  require  much  labor  and  attention  as 
well  as  valuable  space  for  at  least  two  months  that  might  be 
easily  avoided.  Florists  having  a  plant  trade  in  the  southern 
states,  with  a  demand  for  strong  young  plants  in  January  and 
February,  are  almost  the  only  class  that  would  get  profitable 
returns  from  December  propagation.  With  scarce  varieties, 
however,  every  cutting  rooted  is  a  gain,  regardless  of  the  sea- 
son in  which  the  operation  is  performed,  as,  if  rooted  in 
December,  the  top  may  be  taken  off  in  March,  and  the  stock 
in  this  way  further  increased,  this  plan  being  followed  by  most 
florists  who  desire  to  produce  a  large  number  of  plants,  or  in 
establishments  where  quantity  is  preferred  to  quality.  On 
the  other  hand,  other  matters  will  be  needing  attention  in 
March,  and  there  may  not  be  sufficient  time  to  make  a  judi- 
cious selection  of  varieties,  and  it  is  also  difficult  to  obtain 
shoots  in  the  proper  state  for  cuttings  as  late  as  that.  By 
choosing  a  time  between  these  extremes,  as  in  February,  these 
difficulties  are  avoided,  and  the  work  may  be  performed  with 
greater  satisfaction. 

Many  growers  imagine  that  in  a  place  suitable  for  propaga- 
tion, bottom  heat  is  required,  but  in  reality  there  is  no  occa- 
sion for  it,  and  those  who  would  be  successful  should  take 
care  that  no  artificial  heat  in  any  form  is  applied  except  when 
absolutely  necessary  during  unusually  cold  spells.  Plants 
raised  in  bottom  heat  rarely  produce  flowers  of  fine  quality  ; 
while  it  hastens  the  process  of  rooting,  the  plants  are  always 
weak  and  liable  to  receive  injury  where  those  more  hardily 
reared  would  remain  unharmed.  A  place  where  a  tempera- 
ture of  forty-five  degrees  can  be  maintained,  and  which  is 


Propagation.  43 

kept  rather  close,  with  the  cuttings  near  the  glass,  is  most 
suitable.  If  but  a  limited  number  are  required,  the  cuttings 
may  be  inserted  in  pots,  either  singly  or  otherwise,  and 
placed  on  a  firm,  moist  surface,  such  as  sand  or  ashes,  but 
if  large  quantities  are  desired  an  ordinary  propagating  bed 
of  clean  gritty  sand  must  be  resorted  to,  and  the  same  pro- 
cess followed  as  for  rose  and  carnation  propagating,  except- 
ing only  the  heat.  Firm  and  healthy  short  jointed  shoots 
should  be  selected  for  cuttings,  from  plants  in  good  growing 
condition.  Those  of  a  succulent  nature  do  not  make  the 
best  cuttings,  neither  do  those  that  have  become  hard  and 
woody,  and  growths  that  have  the  appearance  of  flowering 
shoots  should  also  be  avoided,  although  they  will  root  and 
make  plants  on  a  pinch. 

The  cutting  should  be  at  least  three  inches  long,  and  cut 
horizontally  with  a  sharp  knife  just  below  the  joint.  The 
leaf  at  the  base  may  be  removed  and  all  the  rest  retained,  if 
the  cuttings  are  to  be  inserted  singly  in  small  pots.  If,  how- 
ever, the  cuttings  are  to  be  put  into  an  ordinary  propagating 
bed,  in  addition  to  the  removal  of  the  lower  leaf,  all  the 
remainder  may  be  trimmed,  so  that  the  cuttings  can  be  put 
close  together  in  the  bed  and  the  air  circulate  more  freely 
through  them,  and  prevent  them  from  damping  off.  They 
also  have  a  neater  and  more  systematic  appearance  in  the 
propagating  bed  with  the  foliage  judiciously  trimmed.  When 
rooted  singly  in  pots,  this  is  not  necessary,  as  the  cuttings 
must  of  necessity  be  sufficiently  far  apart  to  prevent  the  leaves 
touching  each  other.  The  small  pots  that  are  to  receive  the 
cuttings  should  be  filled  with  a  rather  fine  mixture  of  equal 
parts  of  sand,  leaf  mold  and  loam,  well  drained,  with  a  thin 
layer  of  sand  on  top.  With  a  pointed  stick  make  a  hole  in 
the  center ;  insert  the  cutting  about  half  its  length,  and  press 
the  soil  about  it  firmly,  taking  care  that  the  cutting  is  not 
bruised  or  injured  during  the  operation.  By  this  method  of 


44  Chrysanthemum   Culture  for  America, 

propagating  singly  in  pots,  the  greatest  success  may  be 
expected,  and  we  would  recommend  that  all  specimen  and 
exhibition  plants  should  be  rooted  in  this  manner,  the  extra 
labor  being  amply  repaid  by  larger  and  finer  blooms.  Where 
several  cuttings  are  put  into  a  pot,  or  where  rooted  in  the 
propagating  bed,  when  the  time  comes  for  their  separation 
and  potting,  the  roots  must  receive  some  injury,  and  all 
checks  of  this  sort  must  be  avoided  as  far  as  possible,  espe- 
cially for  exhibition  plants. 

When  the  desired  number  of  cuttings  is  potted,  water  thor- 
oughly and  then  place  in  the  house  or  frame  prepared  for 
their  reception.  Here  they  should  be  kept  close  and  syringed 
lightly  when  dry,  until  rooted,  which  will  usually  be  indicated 
by  their  putting  forth  new  leaves,  when  air  may  be  admitted 
gradually  on  every  favorable  occasion,  and  they  will  also  need 
more  water.  When  the  pots  are  filled  with  roots  they  should 
be  shifted  into  larger  pots  in  a  good  compost  of  finely  prepared 
soil.  If  the  cuttings  have  been  placed  in  the  sand  of  the 
propagating  house,  the  skilful  grower  can  tell  by  their  fresh 
and  plump  appearance  when  they  are  rooted  without  lifting 
one  from  the  bed  to  examine.  W^hen  rooted  in  this  manner 
they  should  be  potted  in  about  two  and  one-half  inch  pots  in 
a  mixture  of  finely  pulverized  soil.  But  as  they  will  soon 
outgrow  these  pots,  the  soil  for  the  first  potting  seldom 
receives  much  attention.  When  potted,  if  the  weather  is 
bright,  they  should  be  shaded  for  a  few  days  and  kept  slightly 
sprinkled  until  they  start  into  vigorous  growth. 

In  the  propagation  of  the  chrysanthemum,  the  purpose  for 
which  the  plants  are  required  largely  determines  which  is  the 
best  system  to  follow.  All  have  their  advantages  and  draw- 
backs alike,  so  that  nearly  every  grower  has  his  own  peculiar 
method,  in  which  he  is  particularly  successful,  and  no  single 
method  can  be  universally  adopted.  The  cardinal  points, 
however,  are  alike  everywhere,  the  minor  details  alone  vary- 


Propagation.  45 

ing.  The  wholesale  grower  who  raises  his  plants  by  the  hun- 
dred thousand  cannot  adopt  the  system  of  the  millionaire's 
gardener  who  raises  annually  a  hundred  plants  for  conserva- 
tory decoration,  or  of  the  amateur  who  grows  a  few  dozen  for 
his  fall  display  or  city  exhibition.  The  latter  can  select  their 
cuttings  at  just  the  right  stage  of  development  and  root  them 
according  to  their  fancy,  but  the  wholesale  grower  simply  gets 
his  cuttings  when  he  can,  and  roots  them  when  most  conve- 
nient. The  weak  and  the  strong,  the  soft  and  the  hard,  all 
alike  go  into  his  propagating  bed,  where  they  root  and  are 
soon  ready  for  distribution. 

Propagations  by  division  is  adopted  chiefly  by  amateurs 
who  keep  their  old  plants  to  flower  the  following  season,  and 
is  not  to  be  recommended  except  as  a  simple  means  of  increas- 
ing the  stock  for  ordinary  out-door  or  garden  cultivation.  It 
is  best  performed  in  March  or  April,  according  to  the  season 
and  the  locality  in  which  they  are  grown.  A  good  time  to 
divide  is  when  the  young  shoots  begin  to  push  out  and  attain 
the  height  of  about  two  inches.  The  plants  should  be  lifted 
with  a  spade,  trowel,  or  old  knife,  and  the  process  of  dissec- 
tion is  easily  performed.  The  old  stump  should  be  discarded, 
and  only  the  young  suckers  preserved.  When  possible  they 
should  be  taken  off  with  the  roots  attached,  as  in  this  case 
they  may  be  replanted  at  once  where  they  are  intended  to 
bloom,  and  should  the  weather  be  cloudy  or  moist  they  will 
go  on  and  grow  without  further  trouble  ;  if  warm  and  bright 
they  will  need  shading  for  a  few  days  until  they  show  signs  of 
starting  into  new  growth.  In  dividing  the  old  plants  many 
strong  suckers  may  be  broken  off  without  any  roots,  and  these 
may  be  treated  as  directed  for  ordinary  cuttings.  The  small 
pieces  of  rooted  suckers  are  nearly  equal  to  newly  propagated 
plants.  This  system  of  division  is  especially  to  be  recom- 
mended for  the  climate  of  the  South,  as  there  they  are  hardy 
and  attain  a  large  size,  and  unless  divided  annually  will 


46  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

become  large,  unshapely  plants,  and  the  blooms  be  inferior  in 
quality.  Never  let  them  go  more  than  one  year  without 
dividing.  Give  them  good  rich  soil,  and  keep  them  staked 
and  watered.  Keep  the  ground  free  from  weeds,  and  hoe 
occasionally  to  keep  the  ground  loose.  A  top  dressing  or 
mulching  of  litter  or  hay  will  help  them  in  a  dry  time. 

Grafting  is  performed  in  the  usual  way  during  the  summer 
months,  as  young  chrysanthemum  stems  of  sufficient  substance 
cannot  be  had  in  the  winter  or  early  spring  months  to  admit 
of  this  practice  ;  moreover,  chrysanthemum  wood  is  of  but 
annual  duration,  and  consequently  must  be  worked  upon  dur- 
ing the  early  months  of  summer  in  order  that  the  object 
aimed  at  may  be  accomplished  before  the  blooming  season  in 
fall  begins.  These  methods  are  not  adopted  as  a  means  of 
increasing  the  stock,  but  simply  as  a  means  of  increasing  the 
number  of  varieties  upon  an  individual  plant,  when  such  a 
curiosity  is  desired.  Such  specimens  are  objects  of  admira- 
tion in  the  exhibition  hall  or  conservatory,  although  it  adds 
no  value  or  beauty  to  the  individual  flowers.  This  is  prac- 
ticed to  some  extent  by  the  Chinese,  and  the  idea  of  grafting 
the  more  delicate  rooting  kinds  upon  stocks  of  more  vigorous 
growth  has  sound  reason  in  it  for  the  chrysanthemum  as  well 
as  other  classes  of  plants,  although  it  is  not  adopted  to  any 
considerable  extent. 

Inarching  is  accomplished  by  tying  up  the  scion  plant 
among  the  branches  of  the  plant  to  be  used  as  a  stock,  the 
two  being  grown  near  enough  together  to  admit  of  this  when 
in  the  border.  If  in  pots  the  contact  is  secured  more  conve- 
niently, and  as  there  is  no  separation  between  the  scion  and 
stock  till  the  union  of  the  two  varieties  is  assured,  inarching 
is  often  more  successful  than  grafting. 

Propagation  by  seed,  together  with  the  process  of  hybridiz- 
ing, is  a  branch  of  chrysanthemum  culture  to  which  no  hard 
and  fast  rule  can  be  applied.  Climate  and  condition  must 


Propagation .  47 

first  be  studied,  and  the  operations  carried  on  in  the  manner 
best  suited  to  the  circumstances  of  the  grower.  Probably  no 
two  growers  adopt  the  same  system,  although  there  are  a 
considerable  number  who  practice  the  art  with  varying  suc- 
cess in  every  country  where  chrysanthemums  are  grown.  In 
China  and  Japan  the  chrysanthemum  sheds  its  seed  naturally, 
and  new  varieties  spring  up  as  they  do  among  self-sown  plants 
in  this  country.  We  are  not  so  favored  here,  as  far  as  we  can 
learn,  although  on  the  sunny  slopes  of  California  this  condi- 
tion may  perhaps  exist. 

All  seed  bearing  plants  should  be  grown  in  pots,  small 
plants  being  selected,  as  they  are  more  easily  handled.  Select 
the  finest  bloom  and  remove  the  others.  The  plants  when  in 
bloom  should  be  kept  in  a  dry  airy  greenhouse  or  pit  where  they 
will  get  plenty  of  sunlight.  If  plants  are  well  established  and 
somewhat  pot-bound  they  will  bear  seed  -more  freely.  Select 
the  finest  flower  and  remove  all  others,  and  when  in  full  bloom 
clip  off  the  flower  leaves  with  a  pair  of  shears,  but  not  so  short 
as  to  touch  the  stamens  or  pistils.  The  plants  to  be  crossed 
should  then  be  kept  close  together,  rather  dry,  and  with  plenty 
of  light  and  air,  thus  providing  favorable  conditions  for  wind 
or  insects  to  assist  in  pollinating  the  flowers,  as  well  as  for 
the  use  of  the  camel' s-hair  brush  in  artificial  pollination.  In 
bright  sunny  weather,  where  bees  and  other  flower-hunting 
insects  abound,  a  good  crop  of  seed  may  be  had  by  their  assis- 
tance ;  but  notwithstanding  the  time  and  labor  required,  it  is 
advisable  to  pollinate  the  flowers  by  hand,  using  a  fine  brush, 
in  the  forenoon  of  bright  sunny  days. 

Mr.  T.  H.  Spaulding,  of  Orange,  N.  J.,  who  has  been  very 
successful,  describes  his  methods  as  follows  :  "  I  take  the  pol- 
len from  one  bloom  on  a  pointed  match  or  quill  of  a  feather 
and  place  a  little  in  each  petal  of  the  flower  to  be  pollinated, 
or  touch  the  stamens  with  it.  This  I  repeat  during  several 
successive  days,  at  leisure  hours.  I  think  the  best  plan  is  to 


48  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

take  a  red,  yellow,  or  white,  and  cross  it  with  another  of  the 
same  color,  but  better  in  constitution  or  some  other  quality, 
rather  than  to  cross  indiscriminately.  I  also  believe  that  the 
petals  farthest  from  the  centre  are  likely  to  produce  the  best 
and  most  double  blooms.  After  the  pollen  is  set  I  withhold 
water,  giving  only  enough  to  keep  the  plants  alive,  and 
remove  them  to  a  dry  place  to  ripen  their  seed.  When  the 
plant  is  nearly  matured  the  seed  will  in  most  cases  ripen,  even 
if  cut  from  the  stalk." 

Chrysanthemum  seeds  germinate  freely  in  from  seven  to 
nine  days  when  sown  in  pots  or  boxes  and  placed  in  a  tem- 
perature of  60  degrees,  and  if  sown  early  in  spring  will  pro- 
duce blooming  plants  in  the  fall.  When  sufficiently  ad- 
vanced, pot  the  plants  singly  in  two-and-a-half-inch  pots  and 
move  to  larger  pots  as  their  growth  demands  it.  A  six-inch 
pot  is  quite  large  enough  to  bloom  a  seedling  in  the  first  year. 

The  treatment  of  seedling  plants  differs  from  the  treatment 
of  those  from  cuttings  in  that  no  pinching  or  care  need  be 
exercised  as  to  the  shape  of  the  plant.  Mr.  Salter  used  to 
say  that  for  every  chrysanthemum  he  named  and  sent  out,  he 
destroyed  at  least  two  thousand.  This  may  be  discouraging 
to  the  amateur,  but  the  truth  must  be  told  ;  yet  sometimes  a 
good  variety  will  appear  among  a  few  dozen  seedlings  that 
may  make  the  grower's  name  famous. 

The  foliage  of  seedlings  is  always  clean  and  thrifty  and  the 
profusion  of  blossoms  following  afford  great  pleasure  to  the 
grower,  as  no  two  will  be  precisely  alike. 

The  chrysanthemum  being  so  freely  propagated  by  cuttings, 
hybridizing  and  the  growing  of  seedlings  are  only  necessary 
when  improvement  in  either  size,  form  or  color  is  sought  for. 
The  principal  object  of  the  hybridizer  should  be  to  improve 
upon  the  vigor  and  color.  Size  should  not  be  sought  at  the 
expense  of  these  two  qualities.  A  first-class  chrysanthemum 
should  be  of  free  growth,  with  stiff  stems,  the  foliage  clean 


Propaga  tion .  4  g 

and  clothing  the  branches  up  to  the  flower,  while  the  flower 
itself  should  be  of  good  substance,  well  formed,  and  of  a 
pleasing  color.  The  colors  which  are  yet  to  be  obtained  are 
a  fine  clear  orange,  a  clear  bright  red,  and  the  long  sought  for 
blue. 

In  an  interesting  letter  from  Dr.  Walcott,  of  Cambridge, 
Mass.,  on  the  subject  of  seedlings,  he  says:  "  Not  one  or 
two  years  are  sufficient  to  test  the  claims  of  a  seedling  chrys- 
anthemum for  a  leading  place.  When  a  new  chrysanthemum 
has  survived  its  fifth  year  it  may  be  regarded  as  established, 
and  not  before,  and  I  am  sorry  to  find  that  so  few  stand  the 
test.  Jardin  des  Plantes  is  still  unsurpassed  in  form  and 
color,  and  has  been  for  more  than  thirty  years." 


c.—  4 


CHAPTER  IV. 


General  Culture. 

THERE  are  few  plants  that  will  exist  under  as  much 
neglect  as  a  chrysanthemum,  while  there  are  none 
more  capable  of  being  highly  developed  under  suit- 
able conditions  than  this  now  popular  plant.  Out 
of  thousands  of  amateurs  who  grow  chrysanthemums,  com- 
paratively few  give  them  proper  treatment.  In  most  cases, 
after  they  are  set  out  in  spring,  a  little  weeding  and  perchance 
a  stake  to  keep  them  off  the  ground,  is  all  the  cultivation  they 
receive.  With  such  treatment  as  this  one  may  have  a  plant' 
in  the  fall  which  to  most  people  would  appear  pretty,  but 
superior  flowers  or  handsome  plants  can  never  be  obtained  in 
this  way.  When  all  conditions  are  ready  to  begin  planting, 
select  healthy  young  plants  in  a  fresh  growing  condition, 
avoiding  those  that  are  rather  large  and  have  a  hard,  woody 
stem.  Such  plants  were  rooted  in  November  and  December, 
were  stunted  through  the  winter,  and  on  this  account  will 
not  make  a  rapid  growth.  They  are  also  liable  to  rust  and 
become  unhealthy  long  before  the  summer  is  over.  It  is  far 
better  to  secure  vigorous  plants  with  soft  wood  and  in  a 
healthy  condition.  If  well  rooted  they  will  soon  begin  to 
grow  with  much  vigor,  and  if  properly  cared  for  cvill  retain 
that  condition  all  summer,  looking  rich  and  luxuriant  when 
the  large  woody  plants  would  become  stunted. 

(50) 


General  Culture.  51 

After  selecting  the  plants,  choose  an  open  spot,  where  they 
can  have  an  abundance  of  sunshine.  Make  the  soil  rich  to  a 
depth  of  about  eighteen  inches  with  cow  manure  if  the  soil  is 
light  and  sandy.  If  stiff  and  clayey,  horse  droppings  may  be 
used,  while  a  little  bone  dust  may  be  added  with  good  effect: 
A  little  sand  may  also  be  used  to  lighten  the  soil  when  it  is 
clayey,  as  the  chrysanthemum  thrives  better  in  a  rich  loose 
soil,  and  also  because  they  may  be  lifted  in  the  fall  more 
easily.  The  plants  may  be  placed  out  of  doors  as  soon  as  all 
danger  of  severe  frost  is  over  ;  in  the  latitude  of  New  York, 
from  the  middle  of  April  to  the  end  of  May  will  be  soon 
enough,  while  in  the  extreme  South  and  all  through  the  Gulf 
states  they  may  be  put  out  as  soon  as  February,  and  propor- 
tionately later  to  suit  the  climates  of  the  intervening  states. 
The  time  at  which  they  may  be  planted  must  be  governed  by 
the  frost  periods  in  the  given  locality.  The  latest  season  at 
which  they  may  be  planted  with  success  is  that  which  will 
allow  them  a  sufficiently  long  period  of  growth  to  become  well 
established  in  the  ground  before  the  dry  hot  days  of  summer. 

Set  the  plants  out  carefully,  about  two-and-a-half  or  three 
feet  apart,  taking  care  that  the  roots  are  moist,  and  not  suffer- 
ing for  want  of  water.  While  this  amount  of  room  should  be 
given  when  a  border  is  devoted  entirely  to  them,  when  grown 
in  a  mixed  border  with  other  plants  a  space  of  two  feet  at 
least  should  be  given  each  individual. 

About  the  first  week  in  June  every  plant  should  have  the 
center  shoot  pinched  out — an  operation  known  as  "stop- 
ping." Care  should  be  taken  not  to  nip  it  out  too  low  down, 
only  the  center  bud  requiring  removal.  A  strong  stick  should 
be  placed  beside  each  plant,  to  which  it  should  be  loosely 
tied.  If  it  is  desired  to  grow  the  plants  to  a  single  stem,  all 
side  branches  upon  the  lower  part  of  the  stem,  and  all  shoots 
that  come  from  below  the  surface  of  the  soil,  should  be  removed 
as  fast  as  they  appear.  If,  on  the  other  hand,  the  bush  form 


52  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

is  desired,  all  the  shoots  may  be  allowed  to  grow.  In  a  short 
time  there  will  appear  from  four  to  six  shoots  below  the  first 
one  pinched  out.  These  must  also  be  stopped  when  from 
four  to  five  inches  long  and  the  operation  continued  until  the 
first  of  August,  after  which  every  shoot  may  be  allowed  to 
grow  without  further  pinching  back.  In  stopping  the  differ- 
ent shoots,  always  bear  in  mind  the  desired  future  shape  of  the 
plant.  Loop  the  different  shoots  singly  up  to  the  main  stake, 
using  a  separate  string  for  each  shoot,  not  tying  them v  all 
together  like  a  wheat-sheaf.  Later  in  the  season  more  stakes 
will  be  necessary,  as  the  branches  will  need  to  spread  out  so 
that  the  air  can  circulate  freely  through  them  and  induce  their 
proper  development.  In  putting  in  the  stakes,  place  them  as 
close  to  the  stem  as  possible,  letting  them  incline  outward. 
This  is  done  to  have  the  base  of  the  stakes  within  the  earth 
which  will  form  the  ball  of  the  plant  when  potted,  thus  avoid- 
ing the  danger  of  breaking  the  plant  by  removing  the  stakes 
during  the  operation. 

At  all  times  during  the  summer  the  ground  around  the 
plants  should  be  kept  clean  and  well  worked,  never  allowing 
it  to  become  baked.  Water  always  in  dry  weather  ;  chrysan- 
themums should  never  be  allowed  to  suffer  for  want  of  water. 
This  is  best  accomplished  by  making  a  little  basin  with  soil 
around  the  stem  of  the  plant,  to  prevent  the  water  from  run- 
ning away  when  poured  on,  and  causing  it  to  soak  in  directly 
over  the  roots,  where  it  will  do  the  most  good.  A  better  plan, 
perhaps,  where  the  supply  of  water  is  abundant  and  many 
plants  grown,  is  to  place*  them  in  trenches  that  can  be  irri- 
gated at  will.  Through  the  intense  heat  of  July  and  August 
a  little  mulch  of  grass  or  litter  may  be  thrown  over  the  sur- 
face of  the  ground,  close  to  the  stem,  to  prevent  the  roots  from 
drying  out  too  rapidly. 

The  soil  for  chrysanthemums,  when  in  pots,  is  a  matter 
which  demands  considerable  attention.  To  many  growers, 


General  Culture.  53 

particularly  among  amateurs,  the  secret  of  success  is  sup- 
posed to  lie  in  the  proper  selection  of  a  compost  in  which  to 
grow  them.  This  is  a  mistake,  as  the  best  compost  that  can 
be  secured  is  useless  unless  the  watering  and  general  manage- 
ment afterwards  are  correct.  It  is  also  a  mistake  to  suppose 
that  soil  must  be  prepared  and  stacked  from  six  to  twelve 
months  before  using. 

No  absolute  rule  can  be  laid  down  as  to  what  mixture  is  the 
best,  as  soils  differ  so  much  in  various  parts  of  the  country, 
and  nearly  every  grower  has  his  particular  compost,  made  of 
ingredients  he  deems  best  suited  to  this  purpose,  which  he 
finds  in  his  own  particular  locality. 

Loam,  as  it  is  called,  is  of  great  importance,  and  is  com- 
posed of  the  top  sod  or  upper  surface  of  an  old  pasture,  cut 
below  the  fibrous  roots  of  the  grass.  In  some  places  it  may 
be  cut  three  inches  deep,  and  in  others  one-and-a-half  inches 
will  be  deep  enough  to  obtain  all  the  fibrous  parts,  as  much 
depends  upon  the  time  the  pasture  has  been  laid  down.  It 
should  be  cut  some  time  previous  to  using,  long  enough 
for  the  grass  to  decay,  but  preserving  the  fibrous  roots  intact. 
Such  loam  should  form  the  staple  of  the  compos,t,  but  in  some 
districts  it  is  hard  to  obtain.  Many  growers  of  chrysanthe- 
mums have  to  content  themselves  with  very  inferior  soil,  and 
such  growers  are  very  heavily  handicapped  compared  with 
those  who  live  in  sections  where  there  are  large  and  fertile 
pasture  lands. 

If  the  sod  is  light  in  character  and  cut  where  the  land  is  of 
a  sandy  nature,  ground  oyster  shells  should  be  added,  but  if 
the  sod  is  cut  from  a  limestone  region,  they  may  be  dispensed 
with,  as  the  soil  already  contains  too  much  lime,  a  large 
amount  of  which  is  unfavorable  to  the  chrysanthemum,  the 
foliage  through  the  summer  in  this  case  not  being  of  such  a 
deep  green  and  vigorous  character  as  where  the  loam  is  of  a 
different  character.  Charcoal  is  of  great  assistance  in  keep- 


54  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

ing  the  soil  in  the  pots  porous  and  acting  as  a  storehouse  for 
ammonia.  If  the  turf  is  of  a  retentive  character,  the-  soil 
should  be  sifted  to  remove  the  finer  portion,  as  this  prevents 
the  free  passage  of  water,  when  it  is  applied  abundantly  in 
the  growing  season.  Thus  growers  having  a  rather  light  soil 
at  their  disposal  are  much  more  favored  than  those  who  have 
to  depend  on  soil  which  is  of  a  clayey  nature,  as  in  the  latter 
the  moisture  does  not  escape  as  readily,  and  the  feeding  of 
the  plants  afterward  cannot  be  so  frequently  and  safely  car- 
ried, out  as  in  the  case  of  light  or  porous  soils. 

Manure  is  the  next  consideration  of  importance,  and  must 
be  applied  in  one  form  or  another.  Cow  manure  is  good  on 
light  soils,  but  can  not  be  approved  of  for  a  heavy  soil,  as  it  is 
far  too  retentive  in  character.  The  nature  of  the  soil  at  hand 
must  determine  the  quality  of  manure  to  be  used.  Decom- 
posed manure  is  frequently  recommended,  but  care  must  be 
taken  that  it  is  not  entirely  spent,  as  such  manure  has  but 
little  value.  The  best  manure  is  that  prepared  by  shaking 
out  all  the  straw  and  reserving  little  but  the  droppings,  which 
should  not  be  used  while  too  fresh,  especially  if  from  horses. 
When  cow  manure  is  dry  enough  to  admit  of  its  being  handled 
conveniently,  it  may  be  used  in  that  state.  Sheep  droppings 
and  the  cleanings  of  the  poultry  house  may  also  be  used 
when  in  this  condition.  Bones  are  also  a  powerful  adjunct  in 
making  up  of  the  compost  heaps.  Bones  finely  ground  are 
better  than  when  coarse,  as  the  latter  do  not  give  up  their 
manurial  properties  sufficiently  during  the  short  period  in 
which  the  plants  have  to  complete  their  growth.  Dissolved 
bones  are  also  beneficial  when  used  in  proper  quantities. 
Soot  is  a  powerful  agent  when  continuously  applied,  although 
when  used  excessively  it  has  a  most  injurious  effect  upon 
plants.  Quicklime  is  useful  for  the  destruction  of  worms, 
which  is  an  important  consideration,  and  the  best  time  to 
apply  it  is  when  the  soil  is  being  prepared  for  potting,  an  occa- 


General  Culture.  55 

sional  handful  being  all  that  is  required.  In  applying  lime  it 
should  not  be  used  too  freely  in  soils  already  charged  with  it, 
but  for  those  of  a  sandy  nature  no  harm  will  follow  in  using 
the  quantity  advised.  Some  discretion  should  be  used  in 
regard  to  sand  also,  as  scarcely  any  is  required  if  the  soil  is 
of  a  sandy  character.  Some  growers  never  use  sand  at  all 
after  the  cuttings  are  rooted.  If  the  soil  is  close  and  heavy, 
they  add  enough  of  finely  broken  old  lime  mortar  to  make  it 
porous. 

When  the  soil  is  used  for  potting  plants  that  have  been  out- 
side during  the  summer,  one-third  manure  may  be  added  to 
the  soil  ;  but  in  the  case  of  plants  that  have  to  be  grown  con- 
tinuously in  pots  all  through  the  summer,  much  less  manure 
should  be  used  with  the  soil,  as  an  excess  of  manure  has  a 
tendency  to  sour  the  soil,  where  plants  have  to  remain  in  it 
for  so  long  a  time.  It  is  best  to  use  a  rather  poor  soil  where 
plants  are  grown  in  pots  all  summer,  and  feed  liberally  from 
the  surface  by  top-dressings  and  liquid  manure.  It  needs  a 
stiffer  and  more  retentive  soil  to  grow  the  chrysanthemum  in 
Tennesssee  than  in  Connecticut,  so  it  will  be  seen  that  it  is 
difficult  to  prescribe  a  single  mixture  which  shall  be  the  best 
for  all  climates  and  soils.  We  will  therefore,  suggest  a  com- 
post for  light,  and  another  for  heavy  soil,  which  will  be  found 
suitable  under  most  conditions  in  which  the  chrysanthemum 
is  grown. 

For  a  heavy  soil,  take  three  parts  of  fibrous  loam,  broken 
up  roughly,  taking  out  the  fine  soil,  one  part  horse  manure, 
one  part  decayed  leaves,  one  part  of  old  mortar  or  lime  rub- 
bish, one  part  of  charcoal  or  wood  ashes  broken  about  the 
size  of  walnuts,  and  one-fourth  part  dissolved  bones,  and  a 
six-inch  flower  pot  full  of  soot  to  every  four  bushels  of  the 
mixture.  Where  the  soil  is  light  in  texture,  use  four  parts  of 
loam  as  fibrous  as  can  be  obtained,  adding  two  parts  of  cow 
manure,  one  part  of  leaf  mold,  the  same  quantity  of  ground 


56  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

oyster  shells  or  mortar  rubbish,  half  a  part  of  dissolved  bones 
and  the  same  quantity  of  soot  as  advised  for  the  heavier  soil. 
Thoroughly  incorporate  the  various  parts,  using  all  as  rough 
as  possible.  The  action  of  mixing  reduces  the  parts  consid- 
erably ;  therefore  if  the  turfy  loam  and  other  ingredients  be 
chopped  small  at  first,  the  mass  becomes  too  fine  by  frequent 
turning.  When  the  collection  of  plants  to  be  potted  is  large, 
and  a  greater  quantity  of  soil  is  required,  it  is  well  to  mix  the 
compost  at  once  for  the  whole,  choosing  a  fine  day,  so  that  the 
soil  may  not  get  wet  in  mixing.  There  may  be  many  growers 
who  cannot  conveniently  procure  all  the  ingredients  for  these 
two  composts,  especially  in  the  case  of  amateurs  who  do  not 
wish  the  trouble  of  securing  the  different  articles  for  the  sake 
of  the  few  plants  which  they  cultivate. 

We  give  one  more  simple  but  good  compost,  which  nearly 
all  can  procure  from  the  material  they  have  at  hand,  and  which 
will  be  found  to  answer  admirably  under  most  circumstances. 
Three  parts  rotted  sod,  and  one  part  rotted  manure,  adding 
a  six-inch  pot  full  of  bone  dust  to  each  wheelbarrow-full  of 
the  mixture.  With  good  care  in  other  respects,  this  will  pro- 
duce excellent  plants.  Those  who  cannot  get  all  the  material 
described  need  have  no  fear  that  they  cannot  achieve  success, 
for  an  ordinary  soil,  with  close  attention  to  watering  and  fre- 
quent applications  of  liquid  manure,  will  produce  far  better 
results  than  the  most  thorough  preparation  of  compost,  fol- 
lowed by  neglect  of  the  plant,  in  their  subsequent  culture. 
We  have  seen  equally  as  fine  chrysanthemums  grown  in  the 
light  sandy  soil  of  Connecticut,  in  the  black  peaty  soil  of  Illi- 
nois, and  in  the  red  clay  of  Tennessee. 

When  cultivated  in  the  ground  all  summer  and  taken  up 
and  potted  in  the  fall  for  house  or  conservatory  decoration, 
the  time  of  transferring  them  is  a  critical  period,  and  the  pot- 
ting is  most  safely  done  by  the  middle  of  August  or  first  of 
September,  if  the  weather  is  cloudy  and  favorable,  as  it  allows 


General  Culture.  57 

the  plants  to  become  well  established  in  the  pots  before  the 
blooming  season  arrives,  while  if  delayed  much  later,  they  will 
have  grown  so  large  that  they  can  not  be  conveniently  potted 
without  injuring  the  roots  or  branches.  Dry  weather  is  the 
best  time  to  pot  plants  from  the  open  ground,  as  the  soil 
readily  drops  away  from  the  ball  without  injuring  the  roots. 
Pot  firmly  and  give  a  thorough  soaking  at  the  roots  ;  place 
them  in  a  shady  spot  for  a  few  days,  keeping  the  foliage  moist 
by  frequent  sprinklings,  and  a  few  days  later  they  may  gradu- 
ally be  inured  to  the  sun,  when  if  any  of  them  still  show  a 
tendency  to  wilt,  they  may  be  returned  to  the  shade  for  a  few 
days  longer.  After  this  the  pots  ought  to  be  sunk  in  the 
ground  up  to  the  rim,  as  this  keeps  them  from  becoming  dry 
so  rapidly ;  otherwise,  when  the  pots  are  exposed  to  the  sun, 
they  are  more  liable  to  suffer  for  want  of  water,  and  conse- 
quently need  more  care. 

Standards,  and  in  fact  all  large  specimens,  will  need  a  good 
top-dressing  or  thick  coat  of  manure  over  the  surface  when 
the  pots  become  well  filled  with  roots.  Cow  manure  is  best 
for  this  purpose,  as  it  can  be  piled  an  inch  above  the  level  of 
the  pot  if  necessary,  leaving  a  hollow  in  the  center  to  hold 
water.  They  may  remain  out  of  doors  until  there  is  danger 
of  frost,  when  they  should  be  moved  into  a  cool  room  or  green- 
house, but  not  subjected  to  fire  heat,  unless  needed  to  protect 
from  frost.  The  chrysanthemum  does  not  require  heat,  but 
only  needs  protection  from  the  frost,  the  drenching  rain,  and 
the  damaging  storms  that  usually  occur  at  the  time  they  are 
in  bloom. 

Liquid  manure  may  be  given  freely  after  the  plants  are 
potted,  and  have  recovered  from  the  effects  of  the  operation. 
The  most  successful  growers  of  chrysanthemums  attribute  no 
small  portion  of  their  success  to  the  judicious  application  of 
liquid  manure  as  soon  as  the  plants  have  filled  the  pots  with 
roots.  The  manure  in  liquid  form  is  most  freely  assimilated 


58  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

by  the  plants,  and  can  be  applied  at  any  time  desired.  It  is 
best  to  give  it  weak  at  first,  and  in  a  short  time  the  plant  will 
endure  and  profit  by  stronger  applications  of  this  stimulant. 
If  the  soil  is  rather  dry,  always  give  a  soaking  of  pure  water 
before  the  liquid  manure  is  applied.  It  then  becomes  equally 
diffused  through  the  soil,  so  that  all  the  roots  are  fed  and  none 
injured,  as  might  otherwise  be  the  case  if  watered  with  strong 
manure  water  while  the  soil  in  the  pots  is  in  a  dry  state. 

The  fortunate  grower  who  has  a  farm-yard  of  his  own  can 
have  a  tank  or  reservoir  for  the  liquid  manure  to  drain  into, 
which  can  then  be  diluted  to  suit  the  condition  of  the  plant. 
Where  a  farm-yard  is  not  at  hand,  a  barrel  or  cask  may  be 
sunk  in  the  ground  and  the  manure  water  made  for  the  pur- 
pose ;  a  wheelbarrow  full  of  cow  manure,  and  about  a  spade 
full  of  soot,  the  barrel  being  then  filled  with  water,  makes  an 
excellent  mixture  for  this  use.  Sheep  or  hen  manure  or  guano 
may  also  be  used  with  advantage,  but  guano  is  dangerous  in 
the  hands  of  the  inexperienced,  and  when  it  can  be  secured 
the  common  barnyard  drainings  will  be  safest  and  most  effica- 
cious, and  will  be  certain  to  promote  the  vigor  of  the  plants 
and  add  size  and  beauty  to  the  blooms.  A  soaking  of  soot- 
water  once  a  week  will  keep  worms  out  of  the  pots  and  give 
the  foliage  a  rich  green  hue.  Carbonate  of  ammonia  is  also  a 
wonderful  stimulant,  and  used  by  many  chrysanthemum  grow- 
ers ;  no  other  manure  having  such  an  immediate  and  direct 
action  on  the  growth  of  this  plant.  One  ounce  to  about  five 
gallons  of  water  makes  a  suitable  solution.  Never  water  with 
liquid  manure  when  the  plants  are  dry,  but  always  use  clear 
water  first  and  then  apply  the  manure.  It  is  best  not  to  apply 
the  top  dressings  or  liquid  manure  copiously  until  the  roots 
have  reached  the  sides  of  the  pots  in  which  they  are  to  bloom. 
There  is  no  hard  and  fast  rule  as  to  the  quantity  of  these 
manures  and  stimulants  which  should  be  used.  The  location, 
climatic  influences,  and  the  keen  observation  of  the  grower, 
can  alone  determine  the  proportions  of  each  to  be  used. 


General  Culture.  59 

As  soon  as  the  buds  commence  to  form  they  must  be  closely 
watched.  This  will  usually  be  about  the  first  week  in  Septem- 
ber, when  the  grower  will  have  to  decide  whether  few  flowers 
of  fine  size  are  desired  or  a  quantity  of  small  ones.  We 
would  advise  him  to  select  the  large  blooms,  as  a  few  really 
fine  flowers  always  command  attention,  where  a  number  of 
small  blooms  would  pass  unnoticed.  If  the  large  blooms  are 
determined  upon,  one-third  or  more  of  the  blooms  must  be 
taken  off.  This  should  be  done  when  they  are  about  the  size 
of  radish  seed,  simply  rubbing  them  off  with  the  thumb  and 
finger,  carefully  preserving  the  end  or  terminal  bud.  It  seems 
a  great  waste  to  do  this,  but  having  done  it  once  the  grower 
never  regrets  it.  It  is  best  also  to  cut  away  all  weak  shoots, 
allowing  none  of  them  to  flower  at  all,  when  large  blooms  are 
the  object  in  view. 

While  large  plants  may  be  produced  by  the  "  planting  out  " 
system,  it  is  admitted  that  where  neither  labor  nor  expense 
are  considered,  the  finest  forms,  truest  colors  and  best  shaped 
flowers  are  obtained  when  the  plants  are  grown  continuously 
in  pots,  this  rule  of  course  applying  to  a  climate  where  it  is 
necessary  to  lift  and  pot  them  in  the  fall,  in  order  to  bring  into 
the  house  for  final  development. 

In  the  climate  of  the  south  fine  blooms  are  annually  pro- 
duced by  plants  that  have  never  been  in  a  pot,  and  the  finest 
the  writer  has  ever  had  the  privilege  of  seeing,  were  grown  in 
the  following  manner  on  the  grounds  of  Capt.  J.  J.  Crusman,- 
at  Clarksville,  in  northern  Tennessee  :  A  large  pit,  102  by  12 
feet,  was  dug  about  eight  feet  deep  on  a  slope  facing  directly 
south,  with  a  fall  of  two  feet  from  the  back  to  front  wall. 
This  was  originally  intended  to  be  planted  in  Marechal  Neil 
roses,  but  it  was  determined  to  grow  chrysanthemums  in  it  for 
the  first  season.  The  pit  was  banked  up  on  all  sides  and 
sodded  so  that  nothing  but  the  sash  appeared  from  the  out- 
side. The  ground  also  sloped  considerably  to  the  east,  and  a 


60  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

fall  of  three  feet  was  obtained  in  the  length  of  the  pit,  which 
was  necessary  for  drainage.  In  the  east  end,  which  was  com- 
pletely above  ground,  was  the  entrance  door.  No  artificial 
heat  of  any  nature  was  used.  A  three-foot  bed  was  made 
through  the  center  of  the  pit,  and  one  of  the  same  size  on 
each  side,  with  an  eighteen-inch  path  all  around.  The  beds 
were  made  by  setting  oak  planks  an  inch  and  a-half  thick,  on 
edge  all  around,  the  planks  being  a  foot  wide,  allowing  for  a 
bed  of  that  depth  if  desired.  The  beds  were  filled  about  nine 
inches  deep  with  a  compost  of  the  following  proportions  :  two 
thirds  sandy  loam,  one-third  rotten  cow  manure  and  a  six-inch 
pot  full  of  bone  meal  to  each  wheelbarrow  full  of  this  mixture. 
The  plants  were  selected  from  all  sources,  both  new  and  old, 
the  foremost  object  being  to  get  the  largest  blooming  sorts  in 
cultivation.  About  June  first  the  plants,  being  vigorous  and 
stocky  and  in  six-inch  pots,  were  planted  in  the  pit,  two  rows 
in  the  center  bed  and  one  on  each  side  bed  about  eighteen 
inches  apart,  using  two  hundred  and  fifty  plants  in  all,  and 
about  two  hundred  varieties.  The  sashes  were  all  left  off 
until  fall,  with  the  exception  of  every  fourth,  which  was  sta- 
tionary. Under  these  stationary  sash  were  planted  such  sorts 
as  Mrs  Alpheus  Hardy,  E.  H.  Fitler,  and  others  that  do  not 
stand  the  sun  well.  Abundance  of  water  was  at  hand,  and 
careful  attention  was  paid  to  staking,  each  shoot  being  tied  to 
a  stake,  and  not  more  than  four  shoots  allowed  to  each  plant, 
many  of  the  varieties  having  only  two,  and  some  only  one, 
according  to  the  vigor  they  showed  in  making  their  growth. 
About  the  middle  of  August  a  top-dressing  of  about  two  inches 
was  given  them  of  a  material  similar  to  that  used  in  the  con- 
struction of  beds,  and  September  first,  a  top-dressing  of  one 
inch  of  cow  manure,  which  filled  the  beds  up  level  with  the 
edge  of  the  plank,  making  the  soil  a  foot  deep.  The  terminal 
or  crown  bud  was  reserved  in  most  cases,  and  all  other  shoots 
and  buds  removed  before  they  attained  much  size.  By  the 


General  Culture.  61 

middle  of  October  there  were  flower  buds  as  large  as  pigeon 
eggs  on  many  of  them,  and  at  this  time  the  sash  was  put  on> 
chiefly  on  account  of  heavy  rains,  though  abundance  of  ven- 
tilation was  given  daily  when  the  weather  was  favorable,  until 
the  plants  were  through  blooming.  Toward  the  end  of  Octo- 
ber, and  early  in  November,  the  blooms  began  to  open.  The 
foliage  was  thoroughly  strong  and  healthy,  and  the  flowers 
enormous.  Each  variety  was  kept  plainly  labeled,  so  that 
visitors  could  take  lists  of  those  which  they  liked  best.  This 
display,  in  addition  to  that  in  another  house,  100  by  20,  filled 
with  trained  specimens  in  pots,  beside  thousands  of  plants  in 
the  open  ground,  was  a  sight  that  can  be  more  easily  imagined 
than  described.  Hundreds  of  people  visited  the  display 
daily,  and  railroads  gave  special  rates  from  all  points,  so  that 
for  a  period  of  three  weeks  the  display  was  a  common  topic 
of  conversation  for  nearly  a  hundred  miles  around,  while  the 
number  of  varieties  and  the  proportions  of  the  blooms  were  a 
revelation  to  all. 

When  the  system  of  continuous  pot  culture  is  followed,  the 
soil  becomes  filled  with  roots  in  July  and  August,  and  the  plants 
then  require  constant  attention  to  watering,  as  they  are  at 
that  time  making  that  portion  of  their  growth  upon  which 
the  flower  buds  appear.  Rain  or  soft  river  water  is  best  if 
obtainable,  but  if  hard  or  spring  water  must  be  used,  it  will 
greatly  improve  by  exposure  to  the  sun  for  some  hours  in 
troughs  or  tubs.  When  cultivated  in  pots  they  require  more 
water  than  when  planted  out  in  a  border  or  square,  and  it  is 
also  essential  that  they  be  provided  with  ample  drainage,  so 
that  all  'surplus  water  may  run  off  quickly,  as  the  plants  re- 
quire a  thorough  soaking  when  watered.  Little  surface 
sprinklings  are  productive  of  more  harm  than  good,  as  they 
serve  only  to  induce  the  roots  to  come  near  the  surface  to  get 
the  benefit  of  them,  and  with  the  first  neglect  of  watering, 
they  are  destroyed  by  the  hot  sun.  Nothing  but  a  good  soak- 


62  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

ing,  that  permeates  every  particle  of  soil  in  the  pot,  can  pro- 
duce the  best  results.  Syringing  the  foliage  each  evening  is 
of  great  advantage  in  keeping  the  plants  free  from  the  ravages 
of  insects  and  in  giving  the  foliage  a  healthy  appearance, 
ceasing,  however,  when  the  plants  come  into  bloom. 

Never  water  a  plant  that  is  not  dry ;  on  the  other  hand, 
never  permit  the  plant  to  wilt  for  want  of  moisture,  as  under 
such  conditions  a  free  and  vigorous  growth  cannot  be  made. 
When  specimens  are  grown  for  exhibition,  it  is  best  to  go 
over  them  in  the  early  morning,  again  at  ten  o'clock,  at  noon, 
and  once  more  after  five  o'clock,  and  should  the  plants  be 
vigorous  and  growing,  at  least  two  of  these  waterings  should 
be  thorough  soakings.  As  the  plants  increase  in  size,  and 
the  pots  fill  with  roots,  it  is  necessary  to  watch  the  edge  of 
the  ball  in  the  pots,  as  sometimes  the  soil  is  pressed  out  from 
the  pot,  leaving  a  space  where  the  water  may  trickle  down 
between  the  soil  and  the  pot,  leaving  the  plants  suffering  for 
want  of  water,  although  an  abundant  supply  has  apparently 
been  given.  A  little  care  given  such  plants,  by  pressing  down 
the  edges  so  that  the  water  may  not  run  through  so  rapidly, 
will  be  abundantly  repaid  by  their  subsequent  vigor.  When 
the  plants  are  in  full  bloom,  the  days  will  be  short  and  not  so 
warm,  so  that  one  thorough  watering  each  day  will  be  suffi- 
cient, and  in  dull  weather  they  may  not  even  require  it  so  often. 
It  is  not  necessary,  at  this  stage  of  their  culture,  to  give  liquid 
manure,  clear  water  being  sufficient  after  the  buds  have  devel- 
oped into  blossoms,  but  care  should  be  taken  not  to  spill  it 
about  the  floors,  so  as  to  cause  a  moist  atmosphere  in  which 
the  flowers  would  have  a  tendency  to  mould. 

A  good  plan  is  to  water  in  the  forenoon,  or  at  midday,  so 
that  plenty  of  ventilation  can  be  given  until  the  moisture  is 
completely  dried  away,  and  the  plants  will  have  a  pure  atmos- 
phere, not  overcharged  with  moisture,  in  which  to  pass  the 
night. 


CHAPTER  V. 


Exhibition  Plants. 

r-IE  rapid  strides  in  chrysanthemum  culture  at  present, 
when   each  recurring  season  outstrips  the  past,  and 
when  exhibitions  are  being  held  for  the  first  time  in 
the  history  of  so  many  communities,  evokes  from  all 
sides   the  oft   repeated  question  to  the  successful  exhibitor, 
' '  How  were  these  plants  grown  ? ' '     Judging  from  the  interest 
so   widely  manifest  in  the  growing  of  exhibition  plants,  the 
subject  of  the  production  of  finely  formed  chrysanthemums 
and  splendid  flowers  is  the  question  foremost  in  the  minds  of 
many  in  the  profession,  and  of  many  amateurs  that  aspire  to 
first  honors  at  their  local  shows. 

The  ideal  plant  in  this  country  and  the  standard  at  all  our 
exhibitions  is  what  is  popularly  known  as  the  bush  plant. 
These  are  from  two-and-a-half  to  four  feet  in  diameter,  of 
graceful  contour,  and  each  branch  terminated  with  a  good 
sized  and  finely  formed  flower. 

The  requirements  for  chrysanthemum  exhibitions  differ  in 
various  parts  of  the  country.  If  plants  are  grown  for  one  of 
the  rural  exhibitions,  they  may  be  grown  in  the  open  ground 
through  the  summer,  and  lifted  as  the  season  of  flowering 
approaches,  and  potted  for  fall  display.  These  will  answer 
the  purpose  very  well,  and  the  labor  of  cultivating  them  will 
be  reduced  to  a  minimum.  On  the  other  hand,  if  the  plants  are 


64  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

to  be  exhibited  in  any  of  the  great  cities  of  the  north  or  west, 
and  are  to  bear  the  scrutiny  of  a  Thorpe  or  a  Harris  before 
the  blue  ribbon  is  attached,  a  different  system  must  be  adopted, 
and  that  is,  continuous  cultivation  in  pots,  as  by  this  method 
the  finest  flowers  and  best  results  can  be  obtained.  Cuttings 
for  this,  as  for  other  purposes,  should  be  selected  from  strong 
healthy  plants  after  they  are  through  flowering,  placing  each 
in  a  two  and  a-half  inch  pot,  and  partially  shaded  until  they 
begin  to  root,  when  the  shading  should  be  removed,  and  the 
plants  kept  close  to  the  glass.  In  about  three  or  four  weeks 
from  the  time  of  potting,  the  plant  will  need  transplanting 
into  larger  pots.  Give  sufficient  ventilation,  that  the  growth 
may  not  become  weakly,  and  keep  up  a  night  temperature  of 
48  degrees,  for  if  it  should  get  any  cooler^than  this,  growth 
would  be  arrested  and  a  check  to  the  plant  ensue.  The 
plants  should  always  be  re-potted  as  soon  as  the  ball  becomes 
filled  with  roots,  and  should  never  be  allowed  to  become  pot 
bound.  If  the  cuttings  were  rooted  in  February  in  two  and 
a  half-inch  pots,  the  next  change  will  be  into  four-inch  pots, 
and  this  will  need  to  be  done  about  the  end  of  March.  If  the 
plants  have  grown  well,  the  next  shift  will  be  into  six-inch 
pots  early  in  May.  It  is  advisable  to  place  them  in  the  house 
again  for  a  few  days,  at  least,  until  root  action  commences, 
when,  if  all  danger  of  frost  is  over,  they  may  be  placed  in  the 
open  air. 

The  summer  quarters  should  be  a  level  piece  of  ground, 
arranged  so  that  the  surface  wa£er  from  summer  showers  will 
readily  pass  away.  Care  should  be  taken  not  to  set  the  plant 
in  immediate  contact  with  the  earth,  or  worms  will  find  their 
way  into  the  pots  to  the  injury  of  the  plants.  Some  place 
the  pots  on  boards,  and  others  use  slate,  but  perhaps  the  best 
method  is  to  set  the  plants  upon  a  bed  of  coal-ashes,  thus  pre- 
venting the  entrance  of  worms,  and  allowing  the  water  to  pass 
off  freely.  In  no  case  should  the  plants  be  crowded,  but  set 


Exhibition  Plants.  65 

far  enough  apart  so  that  each  plant  will  have  sufficient  room 
for  air  and  sunlight  to  play  about  it.  When  plants  are  tnus 
set  in  the  sun  and  drying  winds,  it  will  necessitate  frequent 
watering  on  hot  days  and  in  windy  weather.  Gauze  or  other 
shading  may  be  used  judiciously,  and  is  certainly  beneficial  in 
midsummer,  especially  in  the  climate  of  the  southern  states. 
It  should,  however,  be  removed  in  cloudy  weather,  and  late 
in  the  afternoon,  so  that  the  plants  can  get  the  late  afternoon 
sun  and  the  refreshing  dew.  If  placed  on  a  roller  over  an 
improvised  frame  wrork,  it  could  be  run  on  and  off  very  easily. 

Shift  from  six-inch  to  eight-inch  pots,  whenever  the  condi- 
tion of  the  roots  justifies  it,  and  give  the  final  shift  into  the  pots 
in  which  they  are  intended  to  bloom,  not  later  than  the  first 
of  August.  These  should  be  about  ten  or  twelve  inches  in 
diameter,  depending  upon  the  size  of  the  plants.  It  is  best 
not  to  put  plants  into  pots  larger  than  are  absolutely  neces- 
sary, as  they  look  better  in  pots  which  are  rather  small  in  pro- 
portion to  their  size.  Take  two  plants  of  equal  proportions, 
putting  one  into  a  ten,  and  the  other  into  a  twelve-inch  pot,  and 
the  difference  in  appearance  in  favor  of  the  ten-inch  pot  plant 
will  be  at  once  apparent. 

The  stopping  of  the  young  growths,  and  the  judicious  tying 
of  them  into  place,  must  have  close  attention.  It  is  better  to 
tie  a  little  at  a  time,  than  to  wait  until  the  shoots  all  get  large 
and  do  it  all  at  once.  The  grower  must  first  fix  in  his  mind 
the  shape  of  the  plants  he  desires,  and  work  with  a  view  to 
that  end,  constant  attention  being  the  keynote  of  success. 

The  last  stopping  should  not  occur  later  than  the  first  of 
August,  if  plants  are  desired  for  exhibition  before  November 
loth.  When  finely  formed  flowers  of  good  size  are  desired, 
all  but  the  terminal  or  crown  bud  should  be  removed.  This 
is  best  performed  by  using  a  pointed  stick  or  penknife,  but 
care  must  be  taken,  or  rough  handling  may  destroy  the  work 
of  months. 


66  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

It  must  not  be  understood  that  the  first  flower  bud  that 
forms  is  the  one  to  be  retained,  as  many  varieties  produce 
what  is  known  as  the  summer  bud  that  generally  shows  itself 
in  May.  When  first  seen,  it  usually  has  three  vigorous  shoots 
around  it.  This  bud  is  useless  and  should  be  removed  as 
soon  as  it  appears  ;  if  allowed  to  develop,  the  plants  stop 
growth  for  a  time,  and  the  formation  of  the  next  buds  will  be 
delayed.  Some  varieties,  such  as  Grandiflorum,  and  others, 
must  not  be  pinched  too  late  or  they  will  not  bloom  at  all. 
When  the  summer  bud  is  removed  several  shoots  will  appear 
below  it,  and  as  many  may  be  left  as  is  thought  expedient, 
the  variety  and  strength  of  the  plant  alone  determining  this. 
Each  of  these  shoots  thus  formed,  will  show  another  bud 
which  is  termed  the  crown  bud,  and  is  the  one  most  likely  to 
produce  the  finest  flowers,  if  it  shows  itself  at  the  proper  time. 
Occasionally  these  buds  appear  in  July,  and  are  known  as  the 
July  buds,  but  these  are  too  early,  and  will  produce  only 
imperfect  or  badly  shaped  flowers.  It  is  best  to  remove  all 
buds  that  appear  in  July,  as  by  so  doing  the  plants  will  be 
induced  to  make  further  growth,  upon  all  of  which  buds  will 
appear  about  the  last  week  in  August  or  first  week  in  Septem- 
ber. These  are  the  ones  to  be  selected,  and  the  buds  that 
make  the  finest  blooms.  When  the  buds,  are  selected,  all  the 
after  growths  and  small  buds  that  appear  in  the  axils  of  the 
leaves  should  be  removed,  as  they  detract  from  the  progress 
of  the  selected  buds,  and  could  not  by  any  means  develop  in 
time  to  lend  any  additional  charm  to  the  plants  during  their 
early  blooming  period.  If  bushy  plants  are  desired,  the  ten- 
der shoots  must  be  carefully  tied  down  before  the  growth 
matures  sufficiently  to  make  it  brittle,  when  it  easily  breaks. 
After  all  the  shoots  are  carefully  tied  down,  the  plants  will 
develop,  as  they  grow,  into  the  form  provided  for  in  the  first 
tying  down  of  the  branches.  In  tying,  care  must  be  taken 
that  the  loops  that  hold  the  branches  are  not  too  tight  to  move 


Exhibition  Plants.  67 

with  tiie  rapid  growth  as  it  progresses.  Wire  hoops  fastened 
to  sticks  serve  admirably  for  tying  the  shoots  where  a  spread- 
ing, bushy  plant  is  desired.  There  must  be  three  or  more  to 
each  plant  to  give  it  a  good  form.  The  wire  can  easily  be 
cut  with  pliers  and  slipped  out,  as  it  is  best  to  remove  it 
when  staged  for  exhibition.  String  should  be  used  for  the 
main  stem  branches,  but  raffia  or  matting  will  do  for  the  later- 
als. Remove  all  the  large  stakes  possible  at  the  same  time 
as  you  do  the  wire,  if  plants  will  be  be  safe  without  them,  and 
preserve  its  shape  during  the  show  without  their  assistance,  for 
nothing  can  be  more  unsightly  than  a  forest  of  sticks  in  a  pot, 
with  only  a  small  branch  or  lateral  tied  to  each.  The  center 
stake,  of  course,  cannot  well  be  dispensed  with,  but  outside 
of  this  as  few  as  possible  should  be  used.  By  commencing 
early  with  the  tying,  as  soon  as  the  plants  begin  to  make  their 
growth,  a  more  natural  appearance  can  be  given  the  plant 
than  if  much  growth  is  made  before  the  tying  operation  is 
commenced.  Carefully  tie  up  the  laterals  about  two  weeks 
before  they  come  into  bloom.  This  gives  the  shoots  a  chance 
to  turn  their  buds  to  the  light  and  assume  a  more  natural 
appearance  when  in  flower  than  if  just  tied  down. 

Many  people  raise  their  voices  against  this  system  of  tying 
altogether,  as  it  is  unnatural,  and  although  from  a  truly  artis- 
tic standpoint  the  trained  specimens  may  not  be  all  we 
desire,  to  follow  nature's  course  would  be  to  leave  our 
choicest  blooms  to  become  bedraggled  in  the  mud,  and  the 
training  and  tying  become  a  necessity.  It  is  of  course  desir- 
able, when  art  must  be  brought  to  our  assistance  at  all,  to 
bring  into  harmony  with  nature,  adopting  the  system  best 
adapted  to  our  convenience  and  the  beauty  of  our  plants. 

A  stout  stake  in  the  centre,  to  which  all  the  shoots  are  looped 
ur<;  io  about  all  the  training  the  chrysanthemum  receives  in 
England,  in  many  establishments,  when  grown  only  for  con- 
servatory decoration  ;  but  for  exhibition  purpose  the  English 


68  Chrysanthemum   Culture  for  America. 

even  exceed  us  in  the  extent  of  their  training.  Their  stand- 
ards, half  standards,  umbrella  tops,  pyramids  and  balloon 
shaped  plants,  show  that  endless  care  is  bestowed  upon  their 
formation.  The  feeding  and  watering  of  the  plants  will  then 
be  the  all-important  care.  Like  human  beings  they  can  exist 
and  flourish  on  one  or  more  staple  foods,  but  a  change  of  food 
occasionally  is  best,  and  will  produce  surprising  results.  Use 
one  week  a  very  light  dressing  of  cow  manure,  old  and  well 
pulverized  ;  the  next,  liquid  manure,  and  so  on.  Soot  water 
may  also  be  used  with  advantage  at  intervals  throughout  the 
whole  season. 

The  care  of  watering  is  best  entrusted  to  one  man,  and  if  he 
is  observant,  he  will  soon  find  out  the  nature  and  require- 
ments of  the  different  varieties.  Some  varieties  require  much 
more  water  than  others,  a  fact  which  soon  becomes  apparent 
to  one  entrusted  with  their  keeping,  and  he  should  govern  the 
supply  of  water  accordingly.  If  the  plants  should  ever  surfer 
from  want  of  water  and  their  foliage  wilt,  it  will  count  against 
the  final  success;  hence  the  importance  of  judicious  watering. 
A  good  plan  is  to  offer  an  interest  in  the  final  outcome — for 
instance,  one-fourth  the  prize — to  the  man  in  charge  ;  it  will 
wonderfully  energize  him,  and  many  of  the  successful  growers 
attribute  much  of  their  success  to  this  plan. 

In  England,  according  to  custom,  the  head  gardener  is  the 
recipient  of  all  prize  money  and  profits  of  all  kinds,  resulting 
from  the  awards  made  at  horticultural  exhibitions  in  favor  of 
the  articles  he  has  exhibited,  whether  chrysanthemums,  orchids, 
or  the  products  of  the  kitchen  garden.  He  carries  with  him 
when  he  moves,  the  certificates,  cups,  medals,  and  ribbons 
that  at  one  time  graced  some  object  of  his  care  in  the  exhibi- 
tion tent  or  hall,  and  proudly  shows  them  as  evidences  of  his 
skill. 

The  standard  or  tree  chrysanthemums  at  exhibitions,  or 
wherever  seen,  always  command  attention,  towering  as  they 


NYMPH/EA — A  FRAGRANT  CHRYSANTHEMUM. 


yo  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

do  above  the  bush  and  trained  specimens.  To  amateurs,  and 
others  not  familiar  with  the  growth  of  chrysanthemums,  the 
standards  are  all  looked  upon  as  plants  of  several  years  growth. 
A  massive  specimen  six  feet  high,  with  a  finely  proportioned 
head  of  bloom,  appears  to  the  uninitiated  as  something  impos- 
sible to  produce  in  a  period  of  ten  months. 

The  plan  best  suited  to  this  particular  mode  of  culture,  and 
the  one  usually  adopted  by  the  most  successful  growers,  is  to 
take  the  first  strong  healthy  shoots  that  spring  up  after  the 
first  of  January,  cutting  them  off  about  three  inches  long  and 
placing  them  in  pots  or  sand,  as  with  other  cuttings,  in  a  cool 
propagating  house.  In  about  two  weeks  they  will  be  rooted, 
when  they  are  potted  into  two  and  a-half  inch  pots,  if  rooted 
in  sand,  or  if  propagated  in  pots,  they  are  shifted  into  a  larger 
size.  They  should  be  placed  in  the  greenhouse,  kept  grow- 
ing without  a  check  of  any  kind,  and  repotted  from  time  to 
time,  as  each  pot  in  turn  becomes  filled  with  roots.  They 
should  be  put  into  large  pots  at  the  end  of  June,  and  each 
confined  to  a  single  stem  until  the  desired  height  is  reached. 
They  must  be  kept  loosely  but  securely  tied  to  straight  stakes, 
and  no  branches,  under  any  circumstances,  be  allowed  to 
grow. 

The  height  of  the  standards  is  a  matter  of  taste  or  conve- 
nience, some  preferring  to  grow  them  six  feet  high,  while 
others  consider  three  feet  a  more  desirable  height,  unless  it  is 
desired  for  some  particular  purpose.  When  this  height  is 
reached,  the  top  is  pinched  out.  In  a  few  days  side  shoots 
appear  ;  these  are  trained  outward,  and  pinched  again  and 
again  until  the  first  week  of  August.  The  shoots  are  so 
arranged  as  to  form  an  evenly  balanced  and  well  proportioned 
head,  which  gives  the  plant  a  unique  appearance.  No  shoots 
should  be  allowed  to  start  from  the  roots  or  anywhere  upon 
the  stem.  Standards  should  if  possible  be  sheltered  from  the 
winds  in  fall,  when  their  growth  is  completed,  as  they  are  apt 


Exhibition  Plans. 


' '  SINGLE-FLOWERED  "  CHRYSANTHEMUM. 

to  be  top  heavy,  and  would  otherwise  perhaps  be  broken 
down  by  the  first  strong  winds  of  autumn.  They  are  best 
grown  by  being  kept  in  pots  all  the  time,  since  there  is  danger 
of  losing  them  when  transferring  to  pots  from  the  ground  in 
the  fall,  even  with  the  most  painstaking  care. 


72  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

In  the  south,  where  they  are  grown  as  an  ordinary  decora- 
tive plant  for  the  garden,  they  may  be  grown  and  flowered  in 
the  open  ground  with  the  same  attention  to  training  and  stop- 
ping, as  if  grown  in  pots.  If  unsuitable  varieties  are  chosen, 
no  amount  of  care  will  produce  good  standards,  so  that  great 
care  must  be  taken  in  this  particular. 

To  grow  large  flowers,  the  same  soil  and  treatment  is 
required  as  for  the  other  purposes  described.  The  plants 
should  not  be  pinched  often,  consequently  there  will  not  be  as 
many  shoots,  but  they  will  be  taller  and  less  bushy.  Some 
plants  grow  eight  feet  high,  others  not  half  that  height, 
according  to  the  variety.  When  the  very  largest  flowers  are 
desired,  only  one  flower  should  be  allowed  on  a  shoot,  all  side 
shoots  being  rubbed  or  pinched  out  from  time  to  time,  and 
the  small  flower  buds  removed.  The  terminal  bud  is  the 
largest  and  the  ono  usually  retained. 

Growers  for  exhibition  often  confine  their  plants  to  one 
stout  stem,  every  lateral  shoot  being  removed  as  soon  as  it 
appears,  and  only  one  bud  retained.  By  this  means  of  devot- 
ing the  complete  energy  of  a  plant  to  the  development  of  a 
single  blossom,  it  is  wonderful  to  what  size  the  blossoms  will 
attain,  and  where  ample  room  is  given  and  a  good  supply  of 
plants  on  hand,  the  intending  exhibitor  would  do  well  to  fol- 
low this  method,  if  he  wishes  to  distance  all  competitors  for 
large  blooms  in  the  November  exhibitions.  Throughout  the 
season  the  plants  must  be  well  cared  for,  and  manure  water 
should  be  constantly  applied.  A  stout  stake  should  be  placed 
at  each  shoot,  to  which  it  should  be  securqly  fastened.  Care 
in  watering  and  thinning  the  buds  is  the  chief  point  in  grow- 
ing large  flowers,  and  with  all  these  points  properly  attended 
to,  there  should  be  no  trouble  in  securing  the  finest  blooms. 
The  number  of  shoots  allowed  to  remain  on  each  plant  is  a 
matter  each  grower  must  determine  for  himself,  being  gov- 
erned by  his  circumstances  and  requirements,  alwavs  remem- 


Exhibition  Plants. 


73 


Bering,  however,  that  quantity  will  be  at  the  expense  of  qual- 
ity, as  the  flower-producing  capacity  of  each  plant  can  be 
concentrated  into  one  or  more  shoots,  or  even  into  a  single 
terminal  bud.  Some  growers  take  out  the  terminal  bud  as 
soon  as  it  appears,  and  thin  out  the  lateral  shoots  to  two  or 
three,  and  in  this  manner  obtain  fine  blooms,  but  not  quite 
as  early  as  if  the  terminal  buds  were  retained  on  each  shoot. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


Insects  and  Diseases. 

THE   chrysanthemum,  like  most  other  things  of  beauty, 
is  not  always  free  from  trouble  ;    like   tine  rose  and 
lily,   a   number   of   enemies   assail  it,  but  being  of  a 
vigorous   constitution,  it  is  singularly  free  from  dis- 
ease, and  with  some  slight  assistance  its  insect  enemies  can  be 
speedily  overcome. 

The  black  fly  or  aphis  is  its  most  persistent  pest,  and  its 
attacks  are  chiefly  in  winter  and  spring,  and  if  infesting  the 
plants  when  set  out  of  doors  in  spring,  they  are  apt  to  be 
somewhat  troublesome  throughout  the  summer.  It  is  there- 
fore necessary,  while  the  plants  are  indoors,  just  before  turn- 
ing them  into  their  summer  quarters  to  thoroughly  rid  them 
of  all  insects  that  may  be  upon  them,  as  it  is  more  easily  done 
when  the  plants  are  under  complete  control  in  the  house,  than 
after  they  are  placed  outside.  While  in  the  house  they  can 
all  be  destroyed  by  fumigations,  or  using  fresh  tobacco  stems 
among  the  plants  on  the  benches,  or  on  the  hot  water  pipes. 
The  sprinkling  of  these  stems  with  water  at  evening  just  as 
the  house  is  to  be  closed  up,  will  cause  them  to  throw  off 
fumes  that  will  prove  fatal  to  the  fly,  if  continued  for  a  few 
days.  If  the  plants  are  in  the  open  ground,  syringing  the 
infested  plants,  and  dusting  liberally  with  dry  snuff  or  tobacco 

(74) 


Insects  and  Diseases.  75 

dust,  has  a  good  effect,  and  is  the  best  means  of  eradicating 
the  fly. 

In  tobacco  growing  sections,  where  the  refuse  can  be  had 
at  a  low  cost,  the  plants  out  of  doors  can  be  freely  mulched 
with  it  a  few  times  during  the  season,  and  no  trouble  will  be 
experienced  from  the  fly.  If  tobacco  is  scarce,  take  a  small 
quantity,  place  it  in  a  pail  or  bucket,  and  pour  boiling  water 
on  it,  and  as  soon  as  cool,  syringe  the  infested  plants  with  it, 
and  it  will  have  the  desired  effect. 

The  red  spider  and  the  mealy  bug  will  sometimes  infest  the 
chrysanthemum,  but  if  a  water  supply  and  a  garden  hose  are 
at  hand,  a  thorough  syringing  every  evening  will  make  it  un- 
pleasant for  them,  and  they  will  not  seriously  trouble  the 
plants.  Clear  cold  water  has  many  virtues,  and  is  essential 
in  keeping  the  plants  clean. 

In  the  fall  a  brown  caterpillar  sometimes  preys  upon  the 
foliage,  and  there  is  no  remedy  for  this  better  than  hand  pick- 
ing. Many  of  our  handsomest  sorts  are  also  subject  to  mil- 
dew ;  the  Chinese  varieties,  especially  the  incurved  sorts, 
seem  to  be  most  liable  to  its  attacks.  In  some  seasons  the 
disease  is  far  more  prevalent  than  it  is  at  others. 

Black  spot,  probably  another  form  of  mildew,  is  also  a  seri- 
ous evil  upon  the  older  leaves.  The  mildew  generally  makes 
its  appearance  when  the  plants  are  housed  or  sheltered  in 
November.  Its  origin  is  attributed  by  some  to  cold  nights 
succeeding  sunny  days,  or  great  extremes  of  temperature. 
Overcrowding  the  plants  and  insufficient  ventilation  are  fer- 
tile causes  of  mildew,  as  well  as  a  cold  wet  soil  or  bleak  situa- 
tion, leaving  outside  late  in  the  fall,  and  dull  cloudy  weather. 
Should  mildew  actually  appear,  flowers  of  sulphur  dusted 
liberally  on  the  plant,  so  as  to  come  in  contact  with  both 
upper  and  under  sides  of  the  leaves,  is  the  most  effectual 
remedy.  The  best  preventive  is  to  avoid  overcrowding  in 
the  fall ;  giving  abundance  of  air  through  the  day,  and  pre- 
serving a  dry  atmosphere  at  night. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


Sports  and  Other  Variations, 

THE  "sports  ' '  that  are  developed  from  time  to  time,  thus 
enlarging  our  collection,  are  due  to  the  kindly  assist- 
tance  of  nature.      According  to  Adam  Forsythe,  the 
lilac  flowers  are  most  likely  to  sport  and  frequently 
change   to   yellow.      It   appears  that  any  color  is  capable  of 
sporting  into  any  other  color  peculiar  to  the  chrysanthemum. 
All   four    varieties    of    Cedo    Nulli    have    sprung    from    one. 
Bronze   Jardin   des   Plantes   came  from   that  fine  old  yellow 
variety,  and  Queen  of  England  has  sported  into  six  different 
colors. 

Not  to  discuss  their  physiological  import,  the  question 
for  the  practical  man,  is,  having  obtained  the  sport,  how  to 
keep  it.  In  cases  of  a  sport  really  worth  keeping,  the  first 
care  is  to  notice  how  many  terminal  shoots  produced  it,  for 
sometimes  the  new  flowers  come  in  a  bunch,  but  more  fre- 
quently they  appear  singly.  Mark  the  branches  and  cut  the 
flowers,  taking  off  a  few  medium  sized  cuttings  from  the  wood 
that  produced  the  new  flowers,  and  strike  them  in  a  gentle 
heat.  Having  done  this,  cut  the  plant  down,  excepting  the 
stem  upon  which  the  new  flowers  were  produced,  in  order  to 
obtain  from  it  during  the  winter  a  large  number  of  side  shoots 
for  cutting.  By  this  course  a  good  stock  of  plants  will  be 

(76, 


Sports  and  Other   Variations. 


77 


'•THOUSAND  SPARKS." — SHOWN  IN  JAPAN. 

secured,  and  in  the  following  season  the  new  flowers  may 
appear  ;  but  on  the  other  hand,  the  old  flowers  may  appear  in 
their  stead,  and  one  may  discover  that  so  far  as  raising  a  new 
variety  is  concerned,  all  his  labor  is  lost.  It  may  happen  that 
the  new  flowers  appeared  upon  a  sucker  from  the  root,  in 
which  case  the  chances  for  success  are  greater  than  when 
they  appear  upon  bearing  wood. 

Another   excellent  plan   when   a  sport  is  discovered,  is  to 
take  the  plant  to  a  propagating  house,  turn  it  out  of  the  pot, 


78  Chrysanthemum   Culture  for  America. 

first  cutting  away  all  the  branches  except  those  bearing  the 
sportive  flowers,  lay  it  on  its  side  and  cover  the  ball  with  sand. 
Spread  the  branches  on  the  sand  of  the  propagating  bed,  and 
cover  the  entire  stem  with  sand,  being  careful  to  have  the  leaves 
exposed,  as,  if  covered,  they  would  rot  away.  Secure  the 
branches  firmly,  so  that  nothing  can  move  them  about,  and 
hinder  the  rooting  process.  Keep  all  moist,  and  young  shoots 
will  break  from  every  joint.  When  these  are  large  enough  to 
remove,  cut  them  off  and  propagate  in  the  usual  way.  This 
is  better  than  cutting  the  stems  into  lengths  to  strike,  as  the 
hardened  wood  is  slow  to  root. 

As  a  rule  the  varieties  which  originate  from  sports  are  self- 
colored,  although  there  are  occasionally  exceptions  to  this 
rule,  and  in  nine  cases  out  of  ten  the  sport  will  be  at  least  as 
good  in  quality  as  the  parent.  But  in  time  sportive  charac- 
ters will  develop  more  colors  than  one  in  a  flower.  There  is 
no  end  to  the  range  of  sportiveness,  and  it  is  possible  that 
many  varieties  will  be  found  that  will  show  peculiarities  little 
dreamed  of  at  present. 

Among  the  inexperienced  in  chrysanthemum  culture,  there 
is  much  confusion  of  ideas  in  regard  to  sports.  Many  persons 
think  they  are  in  possession  of  something  new,  when  in  reality 
they  are  only  bad  forms  of  some  variety,  caused  by  allowing 
the  blooms  to  develop  from  the  wrong  bud.  There  is  no 
necessary  correspondence  between  blooms  of  a  variety  that 
develops  its  blooms  from  buds  formed  at  two  totally  distinct 
periods,  in  the  growth  of  the  plant. 

The  question  of  sports  and  sporting  is  an  interesting  sub- 
ject, both  from  a  theoretical  standpoint  as  well  as  in  practical 
study.  The  general  system,  so  much  in  vogue,  of  growing 
chrysanthemums  for  large  blooms  is  not  favorable  to  the 
increase  of  our  varieties  by  sports,  as  the  side  shoots  are 
taken  from  the  plants  as  fast  as  they  appear,  and  it  is  from 
these  side  shoots,  when  they  are  allowed  to  grow  and  develop 


Sports  and  Other   Variations.  79 

flowers,  that  many  sports  appear.  On  the  other  hand,  if 
grown  in  their  natural  bush  form,  sports  appear  any  and 
everywhere. 

Mr.  Burbridge,  in  his  excellent  work  on  chrysanthemums, 
says  in  regard  to  sports,  that  the  causes  of  their  appear- 
ance are  unintelligible  to  him. 

EARLY  FLOWERING  CHRYSANTHEMUMS  seem  out  of  place, 
when  in  bloom  in  mid-summer,  and  we  do  not  want  them 
so  early,  for  it  must  be  a  poor  collection  of  summer  flowers 
that  can  need  the  unseasonable  help  of  the  chrysanthemum  at 
any  time  from  the  first  of  March  to  the  first  of  September ; 
but  after  that  date  every  bloom  that  can  be  secured  for  a 
period  of  four  or  five  months  seems  invaluable.  There  are 
numerous  varieties  that  will  keep  the  southern  garden  or  the 
northern  conservatory  gay  through  November  and  December. 
There  are  also  some  varieties  that  bloom  in  January,  and 
most  of  the  medium  and  late  flowering  sorts  can  be  induced 
to  bloom  later  by  a  system  which  we  shall  presently  suggest. 

It  is  to  the  earlier  flowering  that  we  now  confine  our 
remarks.  This  class  is  of  great  use  in  adorning  northern  gar- 
dens where  late  kinds  would  be  destroyed  by  frosts,  filling  up 
the  gap  between  the  summer  flowers  and  the  November  chrys- 
anthemum. They  are  also  invaluable  to  florists  for  cut-flower 
work  through  October.  John  Salter  was  the  first  to  take  this 
class  in  hand  and  develop  it,  as  up  to  his  time  the  early  kinds 
were  all  of  little  merit,  and  calculated  to  disfigure  rather  than 
to  adorn  a  garden.  The  varieties  that  were  most  valued  by 
Mr.  Salter  for  their  early  blooming  qualities,  were  Precocite, 
Golden  Button,  St.  Mary,  Mad.  Pepin  and  Illustration. 
Some  of  these  are  still  in  cultivation,  but  are  not  of  sufficient 
value  to  command  general  admiration.  For  the  last  thirty 
years  this  class  has  steadily  improved,  with  the  result  of  a 
series  of  beautiful  varieties  flowering  in  September  and  Octo- 
ber ;  so  that  the  introduction  of  this  group  is  proving  more 


8o  Chrysanthemum   Culture  for  America. 

useful  every  season,  although  it  must  be  admitted  that  there 
is  still  room  for  much  improvement.  A  pure  yellow,  a  bright 
rose,  and  a  full  crimson  of  such  a  type  as  Madam  Desgrange, 
would  be  of  incalculable  advantage  to  chrysanthemum  gar- 
dens, and  no  one  familiar  with  the  subject  would  venture  to 
say  we  may  not  hope  for  such  improvements.  This  section 
will  doubtless  be  much  developed  and  add  still  further  form 
and  color  to  our  gardens  during  that  period  when  the  pot 
marigold,  calliopsis,  rudbeckias,  dahlias,  sun-flowers  and 
tritomas  appear  to  be  on  the  wane,  and  when  the  golden 
rod,  hawk-weed,  and  dandelion  look  dim  by  the  wayside.  The 
following  is  a  brief  list  of  available  earlier  blooming  sorts  : 

WHITE.  PINK  OR  CARMINE.  YELLOW.  DARK. 

Madame  Desgrange,  M.  Boyer,  Gloriosum,  Roi  de  Precoces 

Madame  La  Croix,      October  Beauty,  M.  E.  Nicholas,       Sam.  Morley, 

Pequot,  M.  Ghys,  C.Bryan,  Louis  Barthere, 

Lady  Selborne,  Lord  Mayor,  Golden  Desgrange,  Fleur  Parfaite, 

Duchess  of  Fife,          Grace  Attick,  Wm.  Cobbett,  Capucine. 

Elaine.  Martimas.  Golden  Shah. 

LATE  FLOWERING  CHRYSANTHEMUMS. — For  the  purpose  of 
prolonging  the  blooming  season  of  the  chrysanthemum,  the 
late  flowering  varieties  play  an  important  part,  especially  tne 
large  flowering  Japanese  varieties  that  bloom  after  Christmas. 
Special  culture  and  late  pinching  has  much  to  do  with  late 
flowering,  but  a  selection  of  varieties  best  suited  to  this  treat- 
ment is  of  great  importance  in  the  production  of  flowers  dur- 
ing the  late  winter  or  early  spring  months,  when  other  flowers 
are  scarce.  To  the  production  of  late  varieties,  as  well  as  the 
earlier  section,  our  growers  might  with  profit  turn  their  atten- 
tion still  further,  and  greatly  extend  the  season  of  their  favor- 
ite flowers. 

During  recent  years  various  cultural  practices  have  been 
resorted  to  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  short  bushy  plants 
that  would  bloom  in  January  and  February,  which  is  the  most 


Sport 'c  and  Other   Variations. 


8r 


NIAGARA. — AN  ODDITY. 

dreary  portion  of  our  floral  }-ear.  The  practice  generally 
adopted  to  retard  them  is  cut  them  down  to  a  height  of  six 
inches  early  in  May,  when  the  plants  are  eighteen  inches  or 
two  feet  high.  This  results  in  a  bushy  mass  of  side  shoots, 


$2  Chrysanthemum  Culture  of  America. 

the  plants  are  retarded  so  that  they  will  bloom  later  than  would 
otherwise  be  the  case.  A  few  plants  treated  in  this  way  from 
the  beginning  of  May  till  the  end  of  June  will  give  a  fine  suc- 
cession of  flowers  through  January  and  February.  After  cut- 
ting back  in  this  manner  the  plants  must  be  kept  moist  until 
the  new  growth  appears.  It  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  the 
practice  is  not  recommended  except  in  the  case  of  decorative 
plants,  as  the  individual  blooms  are  not  as  large  when  so 
treated.  It  is  of  special  value  in  the  production  of  flowering 
plants  for  greenhouse  or  conservatory  decoration.  Late  prop- 
agation will  also  induce  late  blooming  qualities,  and  keeping 
the  plants  out  of  doors  as  long  as  possible  in  the  fall  is  also 
favorable  to  this  result. 

There  are  some  varieties  which,  under  the  same  treatment 
as  other  chrysanthemums,  will  not  bloom  until  December  is 
well  advanced  ;  such  are  Late  Duchess,  Princess  Teck,  Mrs. 
Cannell,  H.  Waterer,  and  others.  These  should  be  supplied 
with  liquid  manure  until  the  buds  commence  to  show  color, 
but  on  account  of  the  short  dull  days  in  which  they  bloom 
they  will  not  require  as  much  water  during  that  period  as  the 
earlier  sorts.  The  following  is  a  list  of  good  late  flowering 
chrysanthemums  : 

WHITE.  PINK.  YELLOW.  DARK. 

Pelican,                Hero  of  Stoke  Newing-  Thunberg,  Welcome, 

Mrs.  C.  Carey,        ton,                                  Gov.  of  Guernsey,  Mr.  Gladstone, 

Lucrece,               Mrs.  Wanamaker,            Mr.  H.  Jones.  Bicolor, 

Moonlight.           Mrs.  F.  Thomson,           Goldfinder.  Gloire  de  Tou- 

Syringa.  louse. 


CHAPTER  VIIL 


Chrysanthemum  Shows  and  Organisations. 

THE  first  chrysanthemum  show  not  of  a  competitive 
nature,  was  probably  that  held  in  the  gardens  of  the 
London  Horticultural  Society  at  Cheswick,  in  the 
autumn  of  1825,  when  all  the  recently  introduced 
novelties  from  China  were  shown,  about  seven  hundred  plants 
being  exhibited.  Another  was  given  in  1829,  at  Norwich; 
this  was  by  the  Norfolk  and  Norwich  Horticultural  Society. 
A  show  was  held  in  1831,  in  Vienna,  where,  it  is  interesting 
to  note,  more  sorts  were  known  at  that  time  than  in  England. 
A  few  years  later,  in  1836,  Birmingham  and  Swansea,  in  South 
Wales,  each  held  shows.  After  these  shows  were  inaugurated 
they  gained  steadily  each  year  in  public  favor,  until  every 
town  in  England  had  followed  their  example,  and  each  suc- 
cessive year's  display  has  outdone  its  predecessor,  until 
to-day,  the  craze  may  be  said  to  be  at  its  height.  At  one  of 
the  recent  shows  in  London,  10,000  people  paid  for  admission 
the  first  day,  and  at  Hull,  Portsmouth,  Kingston,  and  other 
places  the  crowds  are  surprising.  Almost  everytown  in  Eng- 
land has  a  chrysanthemum  society,  and  in  all  European  coun- 
tries, especially  in  Belgium  and  the  North  of  France,  the 
chrysanthemum  is  becoming  a  very  popular  flower,  as  it  also 
is  in  New  Zealand,  Australia  and  Tasmania. 

(83) 


84  Chrysanthemum-  Culture  for  America. 

It  has  been  customary  in  those  countries  to  .offer  valuable 
prizes  for  the  best  grown  plants  and  cut  blooms,  which  has 
served  to  greatly  stimulate  the  interest  in  this  popular  flower, 
so  that  they  are  now  the  most  attractive  of  all  the  flower  exhi- 
bitions, and  thousands  annually  flock  to  see  them  with  as  much 
enthusiasm  as  the  Kentuckians  exhibit  for  their  state  fairs  or 
race  meetings. 

The  Centenary  chrysanthemum  show  was  held  in  Edin- 
burgh, Scotland,  in  1889,  the  receipts  at  the  door  amounting 
to  $5,736  in  three  days.  A  grand  Centenary  Festival  was 
held  in  London  in  November,  1890,  under  the  auspices  of  the 
National  Chrysanthemum  Society  of  England. 

The  people  on  this  side  of  the  Atlantic  have  now  become 
interested,  and  chrysanthemum  shows  have  become  as  popu- 
lar as  in  other  countries. 

Whilst  chrysanthemums  were  shown  by  the  Massachusetts 
Horticultural  Society  as  early  as  1830,  it  was  not  until  the 
year  1868  that  the  first  exhibition  distinctively  styled  a  chrys- 
anthemum show  was  held  by  this  society.  This  was  one  of 
the  Saturday  shows,  from  twelve  o'clock  M.  to  three  P.  M., 
and  so  continuing  until  1879,  when  it  was  held  on  Wednes- 
day from  twelve  o'clock  M.  to  ten  P.  M.  In  1882  it  was  con- 
tinued for  two  days,  in  1886,  for  three  days,  and  so  continued 
until  1889,  when  it  was  held  four  days. 

The  exhibition  in  New  York  in  1882  is  the  first  in  that  city 
of  which  we  can  find  any  record.  The  plants  were  chiefly 
from  the  gardens  of  Messrs.  V.  H.  Hallock,  Son  &  Thorpe, 
of  Queens,  and  Wm.  C.  Wilson,  of  Astoria.  Several  following 
years  large  shows  were  held,  at  which  many  new  varieties  were 
exhibited  for  the  first  time.  The  formation  of  the  New  Jersey 
Floricultural  Society,  and  its  annual  chrysanthemum  exhibit 
at  Orange,  has  detracted  somewhat  from  the  New  York  shows 
of  late,  as  most  of  the  plants  exhibited  in  New  York  came 
from  that  vicinity.  Their  first  exhibition  was  held  in  Novem- 


Chrysanthemum  Shows  and  Organizations. 


»5 


EYE  OF   THE  SERPENT,  OR  MEDUSA — A  JAPANESE  FANCY. 

her,  1886,  their  total  receipts  being  $3,300,  leaving  the  Society 
a  net  profit  of  $2,000  for  its  three  days  exhibition. 

Since  that  time  chrysanthemum  shows  have  become  more 
general,  and  once  started,  they  have  grown  rapidly  in  public 
favor,  so  that  their  abandonment  or  retrogradation  in  a  single 
instance  has  yet  to  be  chronicled.  Philadelphia  held  its  first 
annual  exhibition  in  1880,  and  the  shows  under  the  auspices 
of  the  Pennsylvania  Horticultural  Society  have  now  acquired 
a  national  reputation.  In  1887,  Chicago  had  its  first  chrysan- 
themum show,  under  the  auspices  of  the  Chicago  Florists' 
Club.  Their  second  show  was  in  the  form  of  a  floral  fete, 


86  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

upon  the  grounds  of  John  Lane,  in  October,  1888,  and  in 
the  same  year  also,  a  display  was  made  in  the  Eden  Muse'e 
of  that  city,  in  November.  Each  year  since,  a  most  interest- 
ing meeting  or  exhibition  has  been  held,  and  liberal  premiums 
are  annually  offered  under  the  able  management  of  the  Chicago 
Florists'  Club.  Indianapolis,  too,  had  its  first  show  in  1887, 
and  it  has  increased  annually,  until  now  its  fame  has  spread  to 
all  countries  where  the  chrysanthemum  is  grown,  and  is  perhaps 
the  most  popular  of  all  the  chrysanthemum  exhibitions  in 
America  at  the  present  time.  Cincinnati  held  its  first  show 
in  connection  with  the  Exposition  in  1888,  and  in  the  follow- 
ing year,  in  Pike's  Opera  House,  a  grand  exhibition,  exclu- 
sively of  chrysanthemums,  was  given,  and  valuable  premiums 
were  offered,  and  have  been  continued  at  all  subsequent 
shows.  New  Haven,  Connecticut,  held  its  first  display  in 
1887;  Montreal,  Canada,  in  1889;  Atlanta,  Georgia,  in  1889; 
Nashville,  Tennessee,  in  1886;  Memphis  in  1887;  while  the 
following  cities  also  now  hold  chrysanthemum  shows  regu- 
larly every  fall :  Worcester,  Springfield,  New  Bedford  and 
Plymouth,  Massachusetts  ;  Scranton,  Germantown,  Lancas- 
ter and  Erie,  Pennsylvania  ;  Hartford,  Connecticut ;  Camden, 
New  Jersey;  Baltimore,  Maryland;  Evansville,  Indiana; 
Wilmington,  Delaware  ;  Charleston,  South  Carolina ;  Mont- 
gomery, Alabama  ;  Dallas,  Texas,  and  several  others. 

Every  season  we  read  of  a  dozen  or  more  cities  holding 
their  first  chrysanthemum  show,  so  that  it  will  probably  be  but 
a  short  time  until  every  city  and  town  of  importance  will  have 
its  annual  chrysanthemum  show. 

While  they  have  been  confined  chiefly  to  the  large  cities  of 
the  North  and  West,  we  are  glad  to  note  that  the  Southern 
cities  are  also  falling  in  line,  and  the  Autumn  Queen  is  given 
a  well  appointed  reception  each  season,  as  she  bursts  into 
blossom  in  the  soft  sunny  days  of  the  "Indian  Summer." 
Nearly  all  towns  of  any  importance  in  the  South  have  had  for 


I 
Chrysanthemum  Shows  and  Organizations.  87 

several  years  a  chrysanthemum  display,  at  which  no  premiums 
were  offered,  but  an  admission  fee  was  charged,  usually  for 
benevolent  purposes,  the  plants  being  contributed  from  the 
gardens  of  amateurs  in  the  vicinity. 

Through  the  enterprise  of  the  Piedmont  Exposition  Com- 
pany, of  Atlanta,  Georgia,  the  first  of  a  series  of  chrysanthe- 
mum shows  was  held  in  the  fall  of  1890,  at  which  valuable 
prizes  were  offered. 

The  National  Chrysanthemum  Society  of  America  was 
organized  at  Buffalo,  New  York,  in  August,  1889,  during  the 
meeting  of  the  Society  of  American  Florists  in  that  city.  The 
veteran  John  Thorpe,  of  Pearl  River,  New  York,  being  the 
moving  spirit  in  the  enterprise,  took  the  lead  as  president, 
with  Edwin  Lonsdale,  of  Philadelphia,  as  secretary,  and  John 
Lane,  of  Chicago,  as  treasurer.  "  If  ten  years  ago  it  had  been 
said  that  a  National  Chrysanthemum  Society  would  be  in 
operation  in  1890,  many  would  have  said  that  those  who 
hinted  at  such  a  thing  would  be  a  good  deal  safer  in  some 
insane  asylum,  where  their  utterance  would  not  disturb  the 
minds  of  their  brethren  v/ith  such  absurd  predictions."  So 
said  Mr.  Thorpe  soon  after  the  formation  of  the  Society.  A 
year,  however,  has  passed,  and  the  author  regrets  his  inabil- 
ity to  chronicle  any  of  its  achievements.  Probably  time  is 
required  to  lay  the  foundations  of  such  a  glorious  institution 
as  we  would  fain  see  the  National  Chrysanthemum  Society 
become.  We  trust  the  moving  spirits  in  the  organization 
will  pursue  the  good  work  so  cheerfully  undertaken  until  their 
fullest  ambition  is  attained,  and  thereby  gain  the  admiration 
of  all  toilers  in  the  world  of  "mums." 

The  work  proposed  by  Mr.  Thorpe  to  receive  the  first 
attention  of  the  Association  is  as  Follows  :  First,  the  super- 
vision and  discrimination  to  be  given  to  seedlings  before  they 
are  distributed  ;  this  is  mentioned  first  because  there  are  so 
many  now  foisted  upon  the  market  that  are  worthless,  and 


88  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

because  of  its  great  importance  ;  Second,  the  consideration 
and  selection  of  collections  for  all  purposes ;  Third,  the  best 
method  of  producing  the  best  specimens  of  all  kinds  and  for 
all  purposes  ;  Fourth,  supervision  as  far  as  possible  over 
those  distributing  chrysanthemums,  so  as  to  insure  their  being 
true  to  name  ;  Fifth,  the  formation  and  establishing  of  socie- 
ties in  all  cities,  towns,  and  villages,  where  they  do  not 
already  exist. 

A  taste  for  flowers  and  decorative  plants  accompanies  the 
development  of  culture  and  refinement  as  naturally  as  the 
taste  for  music  or  art,  and  as  the  florist  depends  upon  this 
taste  for  his  living,  he  should  endeavor  to  increase  this  inter- 
est by  all  legitimate  means.  In  large  cities  where  there  are 
public  parks  and  botanical  gardens,  well  kept  and  tastefully 
decorated,  the  people  insensibly  acquire  an  increased  taste 
for  fine  plants  and  flowers  ;  but  in  communities  where  no  such 
parks  or  gardens  exist,  the  grower  can  best  reach  cultivated 
people  by  a  flower  show,  thus  creating  an  interest  in  his 
plants,  and  developing  a  market  for  them.  In  the  Eastern 
states  as  well  as  in  England,  flower  shows  are  given  because 
the  taste  is  already  cultivated,  and  the  public  desires  to  see  the 
best  the  gardeners  can  produce.  The  temptation  of  substan- 
tial prizes,  and  still  more,  the  prospect  of  greater  reputation 
in  his  community,  is  an  inducement  to  the  grower  to  make 
the  best  efforts  possible  to  surpass  his  neighbor,  so  that  the 
combined  results  of  these  individual  efforts  is  the  display  of 
such  a  collection  as  under  other  circumstances  would  rarely 
be  brought  together. 

In  most  of  the  large  cities  where  horticultural  societies  exist, 
monthly  exhibitions  are  held,  at  which  papers  are  read  of 
interest  to  the  craft,  and  subjects  of  importance  in  both  flori- 
culture and  horticulture  are  freely  discussed.  At  the  autumn 
show,  however,  the  chrysanthemum  holds  chief  place.  It 
has  developed  so  quickly  and  grandly  from  its  unassuming 


Chrysanthemum  Shows  and  Organizations.  89 

ancestors  that  the  family  likeness  has  scarcely  been  retained, 
and  is  not  easily  recognized  except  by  those  who  have  an  inti- 
mate acquaintance  with  the  plants.  Both  Chinese  and  Japa- 
nese types  have  produced  so  many  different  individuals  of 
marvelous  beauty,  that  at  present  they  are  named  by  the  hun- 
dreds, thousands  perhaps  appearing  every  year  to  displace 
their  less  favored  predecessors.  So  great  has  been  the 
demand  for  new  varieties,  that  one  dollar  is  considered  a  fair 
price  for  the  merest  twig  that  the  florist  must  cultivate  for 
nearly  a  year  before  he  can  see  it  bloom.  If  it  were  not  for 
the  fostering  influence  of  the  shows  this  spirit  would  soon 
weaken  and  die. 

One  who  has  ever  seen  a  chrysanthemum  show  will  need  no 
further  invitation  to  following  exhibitions,  than  the  simple 
announcement  of  time  and  place.  Those  who  have  never 
seen  a  chrysanthemum  show  should  by  all  means  avail  them- 
selves of  the  first  opportunity  that  presents  itself,  and  they 
will  never  regret  it.  When  going  to  the  show,  above  all  do 
not  forget  the  children  ;  they  have  a  natural  love  for  flowers, 
and  nothing  can  give  them  more  lasting  pleasure  and  happi- 
ness, than  the  cultivation  of  this  love  of  theirs,  until  they  and 
the  flowers  are  fast  and  inseparable  companions. 

NOTES  ON  EXHIBITIONS. — Numerous  innovations  are  urged 
in  the  way  of  exhibiting  chrysanthemums,  and  it  is  well  to 
encourage  all  practical  ideas  and  add  new  features.  We 
might  borrow  from  the  French  the  method  of  grouping  and 
displaying  plants  in  bloom,  the  prize  to  be  awarded  for  nov- 
elty, combined  with  good  taste.  All  effort  to  "dress"  or 
rather  to  deform  the  bloom  should  be  discountenanced.  This 
practice,  however,  has  happily  never  been  indulged  in  to  a 
great  extent  on  this  side  of  the  Atlantic.  To  one  possessing 
a  sense  of  propriety  and  good  taste,  what  is  more  ridiculous 
than  to  exhibit  the  blooms  on  flat  cards  or  boards,  squeezing 
them  out  to  their  fullest  extent  ;  to  curl  their  petals  with  ivory 


90  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

tongs,  and  snip  and  contort  them  with  tweezers,  as  well  as  to 
insert  foreign  petals  that  deprive  them  of  all  their  grace  and 
beauty  ! 

'There  is  an  instance  on  record  where  an  enterprising  com- 
petitor, by  a  cunning  trick,  secured  for  several  years  the 
premium  for  the  finest  cut  flowers  at  the  Liverpool  Chrysan- 
themum Show.  The  blooms  of  the  Chinese  varieties  were  most 
shown  in  those  days  ;  they  were  exhibited  on  a  light  wooden 
bench  sloping  to  the  front  like  a  writing  desk,  with  numerous 
holes  in  its  top  through  which  the  stem  was  passed  to  the  inside, 
where  a  zinc  tube  was  usually  fixed  which  contained  water  to 
receive  the  end  of  the  stem.  By  this  means  the  blooms,  in 
many  cases,  especially  the  flat  spreading  sorts,  were  drawn 
tightly  down  on  the  board,  or  exhibition  stands,  as  they  were 
called.  This  mode  of  exhibition  afforded  ample  facilities  for 
the  would-be  prize  winner,  so  that  in  performing  the  opera- 
tion of  "dressing"  his  blooms  he  brought  his  cunning  into 
play.  With  the  aid  of  tweezers  and  glue  pot,  several  blooms 
were  used  to  make  one,  by  taking  the  finest  petals  from 
choice  flowers,  thus  greatly  augmenting  the  size  of  the  exhibi- 
tion bloams  that  he  was  so  long  famous  for  growing(?).  So 
dexterously  did  he  unite  the  parts  that  he  succeeded  in  baffling 
both  his  competitors  and  the  judges  for  years.  The  exhibitor 
who  could  successfully  employ  such  a  device  at  one  of  our 
exhibitions,  where  the  blooms  are  exhibited  in  vases  or  tall 
glasses,  would  indeed  be  a  genius  ! 

The  schedules  of  shows  should  be  drawn  up  by  people  of 
refined  tastes.  Beauty  of  petal,  form  and  color,  are  more  to 
be  sought  than  monstrosities  that  rival  in  form  the  Globe  arti- 
chokes. Prizes  might  also  be  offered  for  single  chrysanthe- 
mums. Intending  exhibitors  should  be  careful  that  they  thor- 
oughly understand  the  meaning  of  the  schedules  or  regulations 
of  the  society  offering  prizes.  If  the  slightest  doubt  is  felt, 
a  clear  idea  of  what  is  meant  should  be  obtained  from  the 


HARRY  T.   WIDENER. 


92  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

secretary  of  the  exhibition,  or  disappointment  may  result  on 
account  of  exhibiting  in  the  wrong  class  ;  being  disqualified 
for  showing  clusters  of  flowers  when  individual  blooms  were 
expected,  or  showing  bush  plants,  when  plants  grown  to  a 
single  stem  were  to  be  exhibited.  Be  sure  that  everything  is 
distinctively  understood,  and  if  plants  or  flowers  must  be  sent 
a  considerable  distance,  make  such  calculations  that  they 
may  arrive  at  the  time  designated  by  the  promoters  of  the 
exhibition. 

In  the  transportation  of  specimen  plants,  the  stakes  should 
be  drawn  together  by  means  of  a  stout  string,  as  they  travel 
more  safely  and  are  less  liable  to  be  broken  when  tied  in  this 
manner.  As  soon  as  the  plants  reach  the  exhibition  hall,  the 
stakes  may  be  pressed  back  to  their  original  position,  which 
they  will  retain  by  pressing  the  dirt  firmly  around  the  base  of 
each. 

The  shipping  of  cut  flowers  to  exhibition  points  is  always 
attended  with  anxiety,  and  to  have  them  arrive  in  perfect  condi- 
tion requires  great  care.  Those  having  boxes  made  expressly 
for  the  purpose  do  not  require  any  suggestions,  but  the  ama- 
teur who  has  no  complete  outfit  will  do  well  to  observe  the 
following  hints  :  All  flowers  should  be  cut  and  placed  in  water 
at  least  twenty-four  hours  before  shipping.  Flowers  that  are 
opening  too  early  should  be  cut  at  once,  with  long  stems,  even 
if  a  week  before  the  time,  and  placed  in  a  cool  dark  shed  or 
cellar,  where  the  atmosphere  is  dry.  A  piece  of  the  stem 
should  be  cut  off  every  third  day,  and  the  water  changed. 

In  packing,  wrap  each  flower  carefully  in  tissue  paper,  just 
tightly  enough  not  to  bruise.  They  should  then  be  placed  in 
boxes  or  baskets,  in  tiers,  so  that  they  may  not  press  upon 
each  other.  In  boxes,  strips  should  be  nailed  far  enough 
apart  to  prevent  the  flowers  from  chafing,  the  stems  to  be 
held  in  place  with  other  strips,  using  damp  paper  as  a  pack- 
ing between  each  layer  of  stems.  The  same  method  should 


Chrysanthemum  Shows  and  Organizations. 


93 


be  carried  out  in  basket  packing,  except  that  strong  string  is 
to  be  used  instead  of  wooden  strips.  Do  not  allow  the  petals 
to  become  wet  during  packing.  In  staging  the  flowers,  all 
those  with  long  and  drooping  petals  will  require  to  be  gently 
shaken  before  placing  in  position,  remembering  always  to 
make  a  new  surface  at  the  end  of  each  stem  by  cutting  off  a 
piece  before  again  placing  them  in  water  upon  the  stage. 
Labeling  should  be  legibly  and  neatly  done,  placing  the  names 
conveniently  in  front  of  each  flower.  In  arranging  the  flow- 
ers, the  large  ones  should  be  at  the  back,  the  smaller  ones 
forming  the  front  rows. 


UNI7BESIT7 


CHAPTER   IX. 


Classification. 

VERY  chrysanthemum  grower  is  well  aware  that  the 
large  flowering  varieties  have  for  many  years  past 
been  divided  into  certain  well  marked  distinctive  sec- 
tions, and  that  more  recently  they  have  been  classified 
under  the  heading  of  Incurved,  Reflexed,  Anemone,  Japanese, 
Japanese  Reflexed,  and  Japanese  Anemone.  The  first  attempt 
to  classify  the  chrysanthemum  was  by  Haworth,  in  1833,  at 
which  time  there  were  included  only  forty-eight  varieties, 
which  were  divided  into  six  sections  as  follows  : 

Ranuculus-flowered,  Marigold-flowered, 

Ranuculus-flowered,  incurved,  Tassel-flowered, 

China-Aster-flowered.  Tassel-flowered,  double. 

In  1836  another  writer  contributed  a  new  arrangement  or 
classification  of  the  chrysanthemum,  the  basis  of  which  was 
to  group  varieties  in  classes  of  the  same  color.  Twelve 
divisions  are  given,  and  it  appears  to  be  of  value  only  from 
the  fact  of  its  containing  a  table  of  fifty-nine  sorts,  which 
were  all  those  in  cultivation  at  the  close  of  the  preceding 
year. 

The  classification  of  the  chrysanthemum  at  the  present  day 
is  a  matter  of  no  small  difficulty.  The  hybridizers  have 
worked  much  improvement  in  the  different  classes,  owing  to 

(94) 


95 


FABIAU  DE  MEDIANA. 


g6  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

the  freedom  with  which  they  respond  to  their  numerous 
experiments.  The  different  classes  have  been  so  crossed  and 
intermixed  that  many  of  them  have  lost  their  identity.  Sev- 
eral varieties  at  the  present  time  are  of  doubtful  classification  \ 
even  the  good  old  Cullingfordii,  so  long  known  as  a  prominent 
type  of  the  true  reflexed  section,  came  near  being  tossed  into 
a  new  class  by  the  National  Chrysanthemum  Society  of  Eng- 
land. 

JAPANESE. 

A  positive  definition  cannot  be  given  to  embrace  all  the 
numerous  varieties  that  claim  relationship  to  this  class  at  the 
present  time.  The  greater  numbers  of  leading  varieties  are 
so  distinctly  marked  that  almost  each  variety  would  require  a 
special  description,  although  the  general  range  of  character 
can  be  indicated  without  regard  to  colors,  which  are  much 
more  diversified,  brighter  and  richer  than  in  any  other  class. 
The  forms  of  the  florets  and  blooms  are  ample  for  distinguish- 
ing the  chief  types.  In  all  well  developed  Japanese  blooms 
the  short  tubular  disk  florets  are  absent,  their  place  being 
taken  by  florets  either  flat,  fluted,  quilled  or  tubulated  ;  of 
varying  length,  from  short  straight  spreading  florets,  to  long 
drooping,  twisted  or  irregularly  incurved  ones.  In  breadth 
the  petals  also  vary  much,  some  being  an  inch  in  width,  while 
others  are  scarcely  larger  than  a  stout  thread  ;  some  also  have 
the  tip  of  the  florets  cupped,  hollowed  or  curved  upwards,  or 
they  are  strangely  lacerated.  The  great  variety  of  characters 
has  led  to  the  proposal  of  several  different  methods  of  class.fi- 
cation,  founded  upon  the  form  of  the  florets.  One  makes 
three  groups  :  first,  ribbon  florets,  like  Meg  Merrilies  ;  second, 
twisted,  as  Yellow  Dragon  ;  third,  thread,  like  Cossack. 
Another  makes  four  sections  ;  flat  florets,  like  Peter  the 
Great ;  florets  partly  quilled,  like  Soliel  Levant ;  florets  fluted, 
like  Cry  Kang,  and  florets  incurved,  like  Comte  de  Germiny. 
It  is  not  our  purpose  here  to  attempt  to  divide  the  main  group 


Classification.  97 

up  into  these  separate  classes.  Following  the  catalogue  of 
the  National  Society  of  England,  we  separate  but  one  section, 
from  the  main  group,  namely  the  Japanese  Reflexed,  all  of 
which,  however,  can  be  exhibited  in  the  ordinary  Japanese 
class. 

Japanese  Types. 

Avalanche,  L.  Canning,  Mad.  Baco,  Etoile  de  Lyon,  .. 

W.  W.  Coles,      Mrs.  W.  A.  Harris,      Eynsford  White,     Mrs.  Irving  Clark. 

Japanese  Incurved  Types. 

Ada  Spaulding,  Grandiflorum,       Edwin  Molyneux,   Thunberg, 

Comte  de  Germiny,   Pelican,  Stanstead  White,     Mr.  H.  Cannell., 

JAPANESE    REFLEXED. 

The  institution  of  this  group  may  be  regarded  as  an  experi- 
ment, and  it  is  possible  that  some  slight  modification  may  be 
requisite  when  it  is  thoroughly  tested.  The  accepted  type 
for  this  section  is  Elaine,  with  flat,  straight,  spreading  or 
reflexed  florets  ;  and  a  number  of  varieties,  with  both  large 
and  small  blooms,  can  be  selected,  in  which  these  characters 
are  sufficiently  well  marked  to  render  grouping  an  easy  matter. 

Japanese  Reflexed  Types. 

Alcyon,  Phoebus,  Vallee  d' Andorre,  Jeanne  Delaux, 

Elaine,  Pres.  Hyde,          La  Triumphante,  Mad.  C.  Desgranges 

INCURVED. 

The  varieties  belonging  to  this  section  are  chiefly  of  Chinese 
origin.  They  are  distinguished  by  the  globular  form  and 
regular  outline  of  the  flowers.  The  incurved  flower  should  be 
as  nearly  the  shape  of  a  globe  as  possible,  the  florets  broad 
and  smooth,  regularly  arranged,  round  at  the  tip,  and  the  color 
clear  and  decided.  A  hollow  center  or  a  prominent  eye  is  a 
serious  defect,  as  is  also  a  roughness  in  the  flowers  or  uneven- 
ness  in  outline  and  want  of  freshness  in  the  outward  florets. 
The  entire  class  is  characterized  by  an  excellent  habit  of 


gS  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

growth  and  is  good  for  specimens.  As  the  name  implies,  all 
the  florets,  which  are  strap-shaped,  curve  towards  the  center, 
and  only  the  backs  of  the  florets  are  seen  in  the  most  perfect 
flowers. 

Incurved  Types. 

Empress  of  India,       Jardin  des  Plantes,  Mrs.  S.  Coleman,  Violet  Tomlin, 
Queen  of  England,     Mrs.  Heale,  Jeanne  d'  Arc,         Golden  Beverly. 

REFLEXED. 

The  Reflexed  varieties  differ  chiefly  from  the  incurved  by  the 
outward  or  reflex  curve  of  the  floret,  so  that  it  is  chiefly  the 
inner  surface  of  the  floret  which  is  seen.  The  varieties  form- 
ing this  class  are  vigorous  yet  compact  growers.  The  flowers 
are  of  medium  size,  more  or  less  spherical  in  form,  and  are 
remarkable  for  their  bright  and  effective  colors.  The  flowers 
should  be  perfectly  circular  in  outline,  without  a  trace  of  thin- 
ness in  the  center,  and  with  broad  overlapping  florets.  The 
flowers  of  most  of  the  reflexed  varieties  are  too  flat,  but  are  val- 
uable for  their  distinct  character  and  rich  coloring,  while  the 
greater  proportion  of  them  make  good  specimens. 

Reflexed  Types. 

Cullingfordi,          Julia  Lagravere,     White  Christine,      Phidias, 

Annie  Salter,        Dr.  Sharp,  Webb's  Queen,        Temple  of  Solomon. 

LARGE    ANEMONES. 

"The  distinctive  characteristic  of  the  flowers  of  this  class 
is  their  large  size,  high,  neatly  formed  centers  and  regularly 
shaped  ray  florets.  The  Large  Anemones  have  two  distinct 
kinds  of  florets,  one  the  quill,  forming  the  center  or  disc ;  and 
the  other  flat  and  more  or  less  horizontally  arranged,  form- 
ing the  border  or  ray  florets.  In  the  flowers  which  most 
nearly  approach  perfection,  we  have  broad  ray  florets,  so  reg- 
ularly arranged  as  to  form  a  circle,  and  the  center  hemispher- 
ical, with  no  trace  of  hollowness." 


One  of  the  New  Japanese  forms. 


ioo  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

Large  Anemone  Types. 

Thorpe,  Jr.,  Geo.  Sand,  Gladys  Spaulding,          Gluck, 

Louis  Bonamy,     Mrs.  M.  Russell,    Mrs.  Pethers,  Aquisition. 

JAPANESE    ANEMONES. 

''The  flowers  of  the  varieties  constituting  this  group  are 
remarkable  for  their  large  size  and  fantastic  form.  The  disc 
is  more  or  less  regular  in  form,  but  the  ray  florets  vary  con- 
siderably in  length,  breadth  and  arrangement  ;  in  some  flow- 
ers they  are  narrow  and  much  twisted,  in  others  they  are 
broad  and  curled,  and  in  some  instances  the  ray  florets  droop 
and  form  an  elegant  fringe." 

Japanese  Anemone  Types. 

Fabian  de  Mediana,        Mad.  R.  Owen,  Sabine,  Ratapoil, 

Soeur  Dorothee  Souille,  Duchess  of  Edinburg,  Mad.  Berthe  Pigny,  Bacchus. 

POMPONS. 

These  are  all  small  compact  blooms,  and  are  favorites  with 
many  on  account  of  their  neat  growing  habit  and  free  bloom- 
ing qualities.  The  French  growers  gave  them  this  name  from 
the  resemblance  of  the  flower  to  the  tuft  or  pompon  upon  the 
soldiers'  caps.  The  blooms  are  nearly  globular,  being  slightly 
flattened  and  average  about  one-and-a-half  inches  in  diame- 
ter, the  florets  of  each  bloom  being  of  a  single  kind. 

Pompon  Types. 

Bob,  General  Canrobert,          Snowdrop,  Souvenir  de  Jersey, 

Cedo  Nulli,         President,  Osiris,  Vald'Or. 

POMPON    ANEMONES. 

"The  Anemone  Pompons  are  of  a  dwarf  growth,  having 
small  flowers,  with  a  center  or  disc  of  quilled  florets,  and 
more  or  less  regularly  arranged  ray  florets.  As  in  the  large 
anemones,  the  disc  should  be  high,  full  and  neat,  and  the  ray 
florets  flat,  and  so  regularly  arranged  as  to  be  more  or  less 
circular  in  outline." 


Classified  tion .  i  o  i 

Pompon  Anemone  Types. 

Queen  of  Anemones,       Virginale,  Marguerite  de  Coi,         Sydonie, 

Mr.  Astie,  Rose  Marguerite,     Miss  Nightingale,  Calliope. 

SWEET    SCENTED    CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

There  have  been  several  varieties  in  cultivation  possess- 
ing a  noticeable  perfume,  but  it  was  not  until  the  introduction 
of  that  delicately  perfumed  variety,  Nymphaea,  two  seasons 
ago,  that  they  became  generally  known,  and  claimed  attention 
on  account  of  their  fragrance.  This  variety  is  of  American 
origin  ;  the  flowers  are  of  the  purest  white,  and  about  two 
inches  in  diameter.  They  have  somewhat  of  the  form  and 
fragrance  of  the  well  known  pond  lily,  being  borne  separately 
on  long  stems.  They  are  extremely  valuable  for  cut  flowers, 
while  their  delicate  perfume  and  chaste  character  make  them 
desirable  for  the  finest  floral  work.  The  variety  is  of  vigorous 
growth  and  make  fine  specimen  plants.  The  following  varie- 
ties are  sweet  scented  : 

Nymphaea,  (see  cut,  p.  69),    General  Canrobert,  Progne, 

Scapin,  Dr.  Sharp,  Lord  Derby. 

SYNONYMS. 

The  subject  of  double  named  or  synonymous  chrysanthe- 
mums is  a  matter  of  no  small  importance  to  the  cultivator, 
and  is  a  practice  that  cannot  be  too  strongly  condemned. 
This  practice  is  followed  mainly  for  the  purpose  of  enhancing 
their  value  from  a  commercial  point  of  view,  although  it  may 
sometimes  have  arisen  from  accident ;  but  in  either  case  the 
disappointment  caused  is  alike.  In  order  to  mitigate  as  far 
as  possible  the  annoyance  likely  to  arise  from  two  or  more 
names  being  given  to  one  variety,  we  publish  a  list  of  those 
most  likely  to  be  met  with  at  the  present  time,  which  is  based 
upon  a  list  published  by  N.  Davis,  of  Camberwell,  England, 
supplemented  by  additions  from  other  sources. 


IO2  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

CHRYSANTHEMUM    SYNONYMS. 

Name.  Synonym. 

Alice  Bird    Buttercup. 

Alix    Voltaire. 

Ambrosia Harry  Townsend. 

Angelina   President  Sanderson. 

Albert  de  Norios     Albert. 

Aigle  d'Or    Berrol,  Drin  Drin. 

Album  Striatum    Striatum. 

Alderley    Mrs.  Humngton. 

Aregina Inner  Temple. 

Beethoven    St.  Patrick. 

Boule  de  Argent Silver  Ball. 

Baron  Beust    Bernard  Palissy. 

Beauty  of  St.  John's  Wood Princess  of  Wales. 

Beaute  du  Nord Bixio. 

Bendigo    Mabel  Ward. 

Belle  Paule Belle  Pauline. 

Bertier  Rendatler Mme.  Bertier  Rendatler,  Curiosity. 

Bob    Maroon  Model. 

Bonnington Fernand  Feral. 

Bouquet  Fait   M.  Planchenau. 

Bruce  Findlay Golden    Empress   of   India,    Lord   Al- 

cester. 

Belle  Hickey    Empress  of  Japan. 

Chinaman     La  Chinoise. 

Christin,  (White)    Mrs.  Forsyth. 

Canary  Cherub Canary. 

Comte  de  Morny    Purple  Pompon. 

Christmas  Number    Princess  of  Teck. 

Carmen     Carmien. 

Ceres White  Ceres. 

Cossack     The  Cossack. 

Claire  Alonzio     Golden  Mad.  Domage. 

Chromatelle     Gloire  d'Or. 

Charlie  Sharman W.  M.  Singerly. 

Christmas  Eve    Mrs.  H.  Cannell. 

Crystal  Wave Stonewall  Jackson,  Mrs.  Potter. 

Defiance   Marguerite  de  Coi. 

Delice  d'Automne Rose  Mignon. 


Chrysanthemum  Synonyms. 


103 


LEOPARD 

Name.  Synonym. 

Delphine  Caboche  Miquellon. 

Dr.  Bois  Duval  Scarlet  Gem,  Little  Bob. 

Dr.  Rozas    Dr.  Rogers,  Dr.  Rossa. 

Drin  Drin     Berrol. 

Elaine Mrs.  Marsham,  White  Aigle. 


IO4  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

Name.  Synonym. 

Elsie Eliza. 

Emperor  of  China Webb's  Queen. 

E.  C.  Jukes Monsieur  Devielle. 

Early  Rose  Queen La  Frisure. 

Empress  of  India Lady  St.  Clair,  Snowball,  White  Queen, 

Mrs.  Cunningham. 

Erectum  Superbum The  Daimio. 

Early  Red  Dragon L'rlle  des  Plaisirs. 

Emily  Dale Golden  Queen  of  England. 

E.  Sanderson Mr.  Evans. 

Empress  of  Japan Belle  Hickey. 

Flamme  du  Punch Punch. 

Fleur  de  Marie   George  Hock,  Mr.  Cole. 

Fabias  de  Maderanaz   Fabian  de  Mediana. 

F.  A.  Davis Jeanne  Delaux. 

Favorite  de  Solleville    Marguerite  Solleville. 

Fernand  Feral Bonnington. 

Flora .Yellow  Perfection,  Late  Flora. 

Franconette  Dufour Mad.  Franconette  Dufour. 

Gillardia Val  d'Andorre. 

Golden  Empress  of  India    Bruce  Findlay. 

Gloire  de  France    La  France. 

Golden  Eagle Orange  Perfection. 

Golden  Circle Golden  St.  Thais. 

Golden  George  Glenny Mrs.  C.  H.  Glover,  Mrs.  Dixori. 

Golden  M'lle  Marthe     Miss  Oubridge. 

Golden  Queen  of  England Emily  Dale. 

George  Gordon L' Africaine. 

Geo.  Hock   Fleur  de  Marie. 

Gloire  d'Or Chromatelle. 

Glory     Sarnia  Glory. 

Golden  Dragon Yellow  Dragon. 

Golden  Jardin  des  Plantes  Golden  Mad.  Domage. 

Golden  Mad.  Castex  Desgrange G.  Wermig. 

Golden  Mad.  Domage Golden  Jardin  des  Plantes. 

Golden  Rhine    L'Or  du  Rhin. 

Grandiflorum Mr.  Barnes. 

Gloire  Rayonnante    Porcupine,  Hedgehog. 

Gold Mrs.  R.  Elliott. 

Harry  Townsend    e .....  -Amy  Furz. 


Chrysanthemum  Synonyms.  105 

Name.  Synonym. 

Helvetic    Helvetia. 

Hebden  Bridge  Berrol. 

Illustration Lucinda. 

Incognito Mrs.  Sharp. 

Inner  Temple Aregina,  Refulgence. 

Jeanne  Delaux    Japon  Fleuri,  F.  A.  Davis. 

Jardin  des  Plantes Mad.  Domage. 

John  Salter Mrs.  Howe. 

J.  Hillier La  Bienvenue. 

Jeanne  D'Arc Mad.  Madelein  Tezier. 

Khedive    The  Khedive. 

Lord  Derby Odoratum  Purpureum. 

Lord  Alcester Princess  Imperial. 

L'Africaine George  Gordon. 

L'Aube  Matinale    L' Aube  Nationale,  Salmoneum  plenum, 

L'Infante  d'Espagne Soliel  Levant. 

L'Or  du  Rhin Golden  Rhine. 

La  Bienvenue J.  Hillier. 

La  France    Gloire  de  France. 

La  Frisure   Early  Rose  Queen. 

Lady  St.  Clair Empress  of  India. 

Lady  Trevor  Lawrence    Mrs.  Beale. 

Late  Duchess Virginale. 

Late  Flora   Flora. 

La  Chinoise Chinaman. 

Little  Bob    Scarlet  Gem. 

Lucinda    Illustration. 

Luxembourg    Mrs.  Wood. 

Lakme Lincoln's  Inn. 

Lincoln's  Inn Lakme. 

Mrs.  Marsham    Elaine. 

Mrs.  George  Rundle Mrs.  George  Parne- 

Mrs.  Sharpe    Incognito. 

Mrs.  Wood Luxembourg. 

Mrs.  George  Parnell Mrs.  George  Rundle. 

Mrs.  Frank  Thomson    G.  W.  Drover. 

Mottled  Beverly Rotundiflora. 

Mount  Edgcumbe    Mrs.  George  Rundle. 

Mr.  Piercy    Mad.  Pecoul. 

Mrs.  Cunningham Empress  of  India. 


io6  Chrysanthemum,   Culture  for  America. 

Name.  Synonym. 

Mrs.  Huffington Alderley. 

Mrs.  R.  Elliott    Gold. 

Mrs.  Irving  Clark Volunteer. 

Mrs.  J.  N.  Gerard Mrs.  Dunnet 

Mrs.  Dunnett Mrs.  J.  N.  Gerard. 

Marvel Mrs.  H.  Wellam. 

Mrs.  H.  Wellam     Marvel. 

Mrs.  H.  Cannell     Christmas  eve. 

Mrs.  Potter Stonewall  Jackson. 

M.  Castex       Nouvelle  Alveole. 

Mrs.  Alpheus  Hardy Ostrich  Plume. 

Mabel  Ward    Bendigo. 

Mme.  Bertier  Rendatler Bertier  Rendatler. 

Mme.  Desgranges G.  Wermig. 

Mad.  Domage Jardin  des  Plantes. 

Mme.  Greame Virginale. 

Mme.  Pilbetz Leopold  Catalin. 

Mme.  Seux Mme.  Seny. 

Mile.  Augustine  Gauthent    Augustine. 

Madeleine  Tezier M'lle  Madeleine  Tezie. 

Marguerite  de  Coi Defiance. 

Marguerite  de  York   Sunflower. 

Marguerite  Solleville     Marquis  de  Telleville. 

Marie  Longarre Illustration. 

Maroon  Model    Bob. 

Martha  Harding , Thomas  Todman. 

Miquellon     Delphine  Caboche. 

Miss  Marechaux Miss  Thurza. 

Miss  Oubridge     Golden  M'lle.  Marthe. 

Miss  Thurza    Miss  Marechaux. 

M.  Deveille E.  C.  Jukes. 

Mr.  Dixon    Mrs.  Dixon. 

Mr.  J.  J.  Hillier    Mr.  John  Laing. 

Mr.  John  Laing Mr.  J .  J.  Hillier. 

Mr.  Mancy Petite  Mignon,  M.  Dufoy. 

M.  Moussillac Mousillac. 

M.  Planchenau Bouquet  Fait. 

Mr.  Barnes Grandiflora. 

Mr.  Corbay   Mr.  Drain. 

Mr.  Cole Fleur  de  Marie 


Chrysanthemum  Synonyms. 


107 


Miss  ALPHEUS  HARDY. 
Showing  a  well-grown  Pot  Plant. 

Name.  Synonym. 

Mr.  Evans    Oliver  Cromwell. 

Mrs.  Howe John  Salter. 

Mr.  J.  Starling    Tricolor. 

Mr.  Murray     President. 

Mrs.  Beale Lady  Trevor  Lawrence. 

Mrs.  C.  H.  Glover     Golden  George  Glenny. 


io8  Chrysanthemum   Culture  for  America. 

Name.  Synonym. 

Mrs.  Mary  Morgan    Pink  Perfection. 

Mrs.  Forsyth White  Christine. 

Mrs.  Dixon Golden  George  Glenny. 

Mrs.  H.  J.  Jones    . Yellow  Ethel. 

Nanum Sistou. 

Nouvelle  Alveole    M.  Castex. 

October  Beauty M.  E.  Nichols. 

Oliver  Cromwell    Mr.  Evans. 

Orange  Perfection Golden  Eagle. 

Princess  Imperial Lord  Alcester. 

Princess  of  Teck    Christmas  Number. 

Princess  of  Wales Beauty  of  St.  John's  Wood. 

Pink  Perfection Mrs.  Mary  Morgan. 

President  Sanderson Angelina. 

.Peter  the  Great The  Czar. 

Pollion Saddington,  St.  Crouts. 

Pompone  Toulousaine Perpetual  Toulousaine. 

President Mr.   Murray. 

Punch    Flamme  du  Punch. 

Purple  Pompon Comte  de  Morny. 

Perpetual  Toulousaine Pompone  Toulousaine. 

Porcupine     Gloire  Rayonnante. 

Primrose  League    Yellow  Snowdrop. 

Queen  of  England Blush  Queen  of  England. 

Quintus  Curtius Curtius  Quintus. 

Refulgence Inner  Temple. 

Rose  Mignon Delice  d'Automne. 

R.  Ballantyne Source  Japonaise. 

Rotundiflora    Mottled  Beverly. 

Ralph  Brocklebank   Mr.  Ralph  Brocklebank. 

Roseum  Superbum     Souvenir  de  Haarlem. 

Robert  Bottomley Lady  Lawrence. 

Salmoneum  plenum   L'Aube  Matinale. 

Scarlet  Gem Little  Bob. 

Silver  Ball    Boule  de  Argent. 

Sistou    Nanum. 

Snowball Empress  of  India. 

Soliel  Levant L'Infant  d'Espagne. 

Source  Japonaise   '. R.  Ballantyne. 

Souvenir  de  Amsterdam Amsterdam. 


Chrysanthemum  Synonyms.  109 

Name.  Synonym. 

Souvenir  de  Haarlem    Roseum  Superbum. 

Striatum   Album  Striatum . 

St.  Mary Souvenir  d'un  Ami. 

Sultana Ville  d'Hyeres. 

Sunflower     Marguerite  de  York. 

St.  Grouts     Saddington. 

St.  Patrick Beethoven. 

Sarnia  Glory Glory. 

Stonewall  Jackson Mrs.  Potter,  Crystal  Wave. 

The  Daimio Erectum  Superbum. 

The  Globe    While  Globe. 

Thomas  Tcdman    Martha  Harding. 

Thorpe  Junior     J.  Thorpe,  Jr. 

Tricolor    Mr.  J.  Starling. 

The  Czar Peter  the  Great. 

Thurza Miss  Marechaux. 

Undine Little  Beauty. 

Val  d'Andorre Gillardia. 

Ville  D'Hyeres    Sultana. 

Virgin-ale Late  Duchess. 

Volunteer     Mrs.  Irving  Clark. 

Webb's  Queen    Emperor  of  China. 

White  Aigle Elaine. 

White  Beverly     Beverly. 

White  Queen  of  England     Empress  of  India,  Snowball. 

William  Holmes Mr.  William  Holmes. 

White  Christine Mrs.  Forsyth. 

White  Queen   Empress  of  India. 

White  Saddington White  St.  Grouts. 

White  St.  Grouts    White  Saddington. 

W.  M.  Singerly Charlie  Sharman. 

Yellow  Dragon    Golden  Dragon. 

Yellow  Ethel   Mrs.  H.  J.  Jones. 

Yellow  Snowdrop   Primrose  League. 


CHAPTER    X. 


Select  Lists  of  Varieties  for  Various  Purposes. 

THE  wonderful  progress  made  within  the  past  few  years 
in  the  culture  of  the  chrysanthemum  renders  it  diffi- 
cult to  give  a  list  of  varieties  suitable  for  each  partic- 
ular style  of  culture  that  would  be  acceptable  to  all 
growers.  Nearly  every  grower  has  his  favorites  for  each  spec- 
ial system  of  cultivation.  Within  the  past  few  years  new 
kinds  are  annually  introduced  that  eclipse  many  of  the  favor- 
ites of  each  preceding  year.  To  an  American  grower  of  the 
present  day  it  is  a  little  amusing  to  look  over  a  few  of  the 
works  by  English  and  other  writers  and  see  the  varieties  there 
enumerated  as  the  finest  in  their  respective  classes.  With 
some  exceptions  there  is  not  one  of  them  that  would  pass 
muster  among  the  great  army  of  home-raised  seedlings  that 
annually  come  into  our  plant  commerce.  Many  of  those  va- 
rieties that  occupied  a  prominent  position  in  their  respective 
classes,  but  a  few  years  since,  are  now  relegated  to  obscurity, 
and  varieties  of  more  recent  introduction  occupy  well  nigh  all 
the  honored  positions.  In  view  of  this  it  is  with  hesitation  we 
give  a  list  of  the  best  varieties  at  the  present  time,  lest  future 
chroniclers  might  deride  us  for  our  choice  of  to-day.  How- 
ever, if  the  next  decade  will  produce  varieties  as  superior  to 
these  of  the  present  time,  as  the  varieties  of  recent  introduc- 
tion are  to  those  grown  ten  years  ago,  we  will  be  so  thoroughly 

(no) 


Select  Lists  of  Varieties  for   Various  Purposes.  in 

elated  at  the  triumph  as  to  take  with  complacency  any  derision 
of  our  suggestions. 

The  following  lists  are  selected  with  much  care,  and  will  be 
found  most  suitable  for  the  purpose  named.  We  omit  varie- 
ties of  this  year's  introduction  : 

Forty-eight  of  the  best  varieties  for  specimen  plants  or  garden  decoration. 

Name.  Color. 

Cullingfordii Red. 

Mad.  C.  Audiguier   ......  Pink. 

Mrs.  Frank  Thomson Pink. 

Domination White. 

Duchess Red. 

Ada  Spaulding Pink. 

Lord  Byron    Bronze. 

Mrs.  Bullock White. 

Mrs.  Heale     Blush  white. 

Crown  Prince  Crimson. 

M.  Boyer    Pink. 

October  Beauty     Blush. 

Puritan    Blush. 

Pelican    White. 

Mrs.  Robert  Elliott Yellow. 

Grandiflorum     Yellow. 

John  Thorpe Amaranth. 

Jean  d'Arc Blush. 

Gloriosum     Yellow. 

Mrs.  John  Wanamaker  Lilac. 

Gold     Yellow. 

R.  Crawford,  Jr    Pink. 

Peter  the  Great     Yellow. 

La  Triomphante Rose 

Lord  Mayor   Violet. 

Lambeth     White. 

Louis  Weille Mauve. 

Robert  Bottomley    White. 

Venus Blush. 

William  Robinson    Golden  bronze. 

William  M.  Singerly   Purple. 

Leopard Spotted. 


H2  Chrysanthemum    Culture  for  America. 

Name.  Color. 

W.  W.  Coles Red. 

Troubadour    Pink. 

Nymphaea   White. 

Lucretia Cream. 

Mrs.  Carnegie Red. 

Lilian  B.  Bird Pink. 

Empress  of  India White. 

L.  Canning     White. 

Mrs.  Langtry     White. 

Mrs.  Vannaman     Red. 

Mrs.  J.  C.  Price    Yellow. 

Lady  Matheson     Cream  white. 

Little  Tycoon    Rose. 

William  H.  Lincoln     Yellow. 

Judge  Rea Pink. 

The  Bride White. 

Forty-eight  of  the  best  Japanese  varieties,  suitable  for  exhibition  flowers 

Baronne  de  Prailly Pink. 

J.  Delaux    Crimson. 

Mrs.  Mary  Weightman Yellow. 

Comte  de  Germiny Bronze. 

Mrs.  C.  H.  Wheeler    Orange  red. 

Mad.  C.  Audiguier Pink. 

Domination    White. 

Mrs.  Frank  Thomson Pink. 

G.  F.  Moseman     Terra  cotta. 

George  Maclure Amaranth. 

Grandiflorum     Yellow. 

Mrs.  Winthrop  Sargeant     Yellow. 

John  Thorpe   Amaranth. 

Mrs.  J.  N.  Gerard   Pink. 

Mrs.  A.  Waterer ,    White. 

J.  Mahood Yellow. 

La  Triomphante   Rose. 

Le  Dauphinois Chrome. 

Le  Tonkin Pink. 

Mrs.  Langtry     White. 

Lord  Byron    Bronze. 

Mrs.  George  Bullock   White. 


Select  Lists  of  Varieties  for   Various  Purposes.  113 

Name.  Color. 

Magnet   Pink. 

Martha  Harding   Old  gold. 

W.  H.  Lincoln Yellow. 

Pelican White. 

Public  Ledger   Pearl  pink. 

President  Arthur Pink. 

R.  Brocklebank     Yellow. 

R.  Crawford,  Jr Pink. 

Syringa Peach. 

Thomas  Cartledge    Buff. 

Charles  Pratt     Claret, 

Soliel  Levant    ...  Yellow.. 

Lady  Lawrence     White. 

Miss  Mary  Wheeler     Pink. 

Mrs.  T.  H.  Spaulding White. 

W.  W.  Coles.! Red. 

William  Robinson    Golden  bronze. 

H.  Cannell     Yellow. 

Mrs.  Carnegie   Red. 

Mrs.  A.  Hardy White. 

Lilian  B.  Bird Pink. 

President  Spaulding    Red. 

Little  Tycoon    Rose. 

Jessica     White. 

Mrs.  J.  B.  Wilson    Light. 

The  Bride White. 

Twenty-four  of  the  best  Japanese  varieties,  suitable  for  exhibition  blooms  : 

Comte  de  Germiny Bronze. 

Mrs.  C.  H.  Wheeler    Orange  red. 

Domination    White. 

Mrs.  Charles  Dissel Pink. 

G.  F.  Moseman    Terra  cotta. 

Grandifl  orum    Yellow. 

La  Triomphante Rose. 

Mrs.  Langtry     White. 

Le  Tonkin Pink. 

Lord  Byron   Bronze. 

E.  G.  Hill Yellow. 

President  Arthur  . .  .  .Pink. 


1 14  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

Name.  Color. 

Robert  Bottomley    : White. 

Thomas  Cartledge   Buff. 

President  Harrison Crimson. 

William  Robinson    Golden  bronze 

Harry  E.  Widener  Yellow. 

Kioto Yellow. 

The  Bride White. 

Mrs.  Carnegie  Red . 

President  Spaulding    Red. 

Mollie  Bawn White. 

Lilian  B.  Bird Pink. 

Little  Tycoon    Rose. 

Twenty-four  of  the  best  varieties  for  bush  plants,  suitable  for  exhibition  or 
home  decorations  : 

Cullingf  ordii Red. 

Grandiflorum Yellow. 

Jean  d' Arc Blush. 

Mrs.  John  Wanamaker Lilac. 

Gold    Yellow. 

R.  Crawford,  Jr Pink. 

Lord  Byron    Bronze. 

Montplaisant     , Crimson. 

M.  Boyer   Pink. 

Puritan    Blush . 

Mrs.  Langtry    White. 

Robert  Bottomley    White. 

Venus Blush. 

William  Robinson    Golden  bronze. 

William  M.  Singerly   Purple. 

Mrs.  R.  Elliott Yellow. 

Mrs.  A.  Hardy White. 

Mrs.  Carnegie   Red. 

The  Bride White. 

La  Triomphante Pink. 

Empress  of  India White. 

Gloriosum Yellow. 

Mrs.  Vannaman    Red. 

Judge  Rea Pink. 


Select  Lists  of  Varieties  for   Various  Purposes.          115 

Twenty-four  of  the  best  Chinese  varieties,  suitable  for  exhibition  blooms  : 
Name.  Color. 

Alfred  Salter Rose  pink. 

Bronze  Jardin  des  Plantes Bronze. 

Bronze  Queen  of  England    Bronze. 

Cullingfordii Red. 

Empress  of  India     White. 

Emily  Dale    Yellow. 

Miss  E.  A .  Jacquith     Bronze . 

Golden  Empress   Yellow. 

Golden  Queen  of  England     Yellow. 

Jardin  des  Plantes  Yellow. 

Jean  d'Arc White. 

John  Salter     , Bronze. 

Mrs.  John  Wanamaker  Lilac. 

Lord  Wolseley Bronze  red. 

Lady  Carey   Rose. 

Mrs.  M .  Morgan Light  pink. 

Mrs.  Heale    Blush  white. 

M.  Brunlees Indian  red. 

Mabel  Ward Yellow. 

Nil  Desperandum     Orange. 

Lady  Slade     Pink. 

Prince  Albert    Crimson. 

Princess  Teck   White  blush. 

Sir  S.  Carey Amaranth. 

Twelve  of  the  best  varieties  for  bush  plants,  suitable  for  exhibition  or  conserva- 
tory decoration  : 

Cullingfordii      Red. 

Grandiflorum     Yellow. 

Mrs.  John  Wanamaker  Lilac. 

Gold    Yellow. 

M.  Boyer   Pink. 

Puritan   Blush. 

Mrs.  Robert  Elliott Yellow. 

Mrs.  Langtry     White. 

Ny mphea    White. 

Montgolfier    Bronze. 

Mrs.  Carnegie   Red. 

Lady  St.  Clair White. 


n6  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

Twelve  of  the  best  Japanese  varieties,  suitable  for  exhibition  blooms  .' 
Name.  Color. 

Comte  de  Germiny Bronze. 

Etoile  de  Lyon Lilac  rose. 

G.  F.  Moseman    Terra  cotta, 

Grandiflorum    Yellow. 

Mrs.  Langtry    White. 

Harry  E.  Widener Yellow. 

Mrs.  J.  T.  Emlen Crimson, 

Robert  Bottomley    White. 

The  Bride White. 

Avalanche White. 

Mrs.  Carnegie   Red. 

Lilian  B.  Bird Pink. 

Twelve  of  the  best  varieties,  suitable  for  growing  as  standards  : 

Comte  de  Germiny Bronze. 

Duchess Red. 

Mrs.  Frank  Thomson Pink. 

G.  F.  Moseman    Terra  cotta. 

Gold    Yellow. 

Jean  d'Arc Blush. 

Grandiflorum     Yellow. 

R.  Crawford,  Jr    Pink. 

Robert  Bottomley    White. 

Mrs.  J.  B.  Wilson White. 

Mrs.  Carnegie   Red. 

Mad.  C.  Audiguier   Pink. 

Twelve  of  the  best  Anemone-flowered  varieties,  suitable  for  exhibition  blooms 

Eva Salmon. 

Empress Lilac. 

George  Sand Bronze. 

Mrs.  Judge  Benedict   White. 

Lividia Blush. 

M.  B.  Pigmy Rose. 

Nouvelle  Alveole Pink. 

Gladys  Spaulding     Bronze. 

Thorpe,  Jr Yellow. 

Mrs.  Charles  Pratt White. 

Fabian  de  Mediana Lilac. 

Soeur  Souille     ,  Blush  white. 


Select  Lists  of  Varieties  for   Various  Purposes.          117 

Twelve  of  the  best  Chinese  varieties,  suitable  for  exhibition  blooms  : 
Name.  Color. 

Bronze  Queen  of  England Bronze. 

Cullingfordii Red. 

Empress  of  India ' White. 

Emily  Dale    Yellow. 

Jean  d'Arc Blush. 

Jardin  des  Plantes    Yellow. 

Mrs.  John  Wanamaker   Lilac. 

Lord  Wolseley Bronze  red. 

Mrs.  Heale     Blush  white. 

Prince  Alfred Crimson. 

Princess  Teck    Violet  blush. 

M.  Brunlees     .  ..Indian  red. 


CHAPTER  XI. 


Calendar  of  Monthly  Operations. 
JANUARY. 

THE  operations  of  this  month  are  probably  the  least  of 
any  month  in  the  year.  Those  who  require  a  large 
number  of  plants  will  of  course  put  in  every  cutting 
possible.  Where  only  a  few  plants  are  required,  thin 
out  the  suckers,  as  they  appear,  to  the  number  desired  from 
each  plant.  Encourage  by  a  little  liquid  manure  so  as  to  get 
strong  cuttings  early  next  month.  Towards  the  end  of  the 
month  some  of  the  stronger  cuttings  inserted  in  December 
will  be  rooted,  and  will  need  potting  off,  and  should  then  be 
kept  close  to  the  glass  to  prevent  a  spindling  growth.  Pre- 
pare a  compost  of  turfy  loam,  well  rotted  manure  and  sand  ; 
screen,  or  break  it  up  fine,  as  it  will  be  required  for  small 
pots.  Where  good  cuttings  are  scarce,  stout  suckers  can  be 
obtained  with  a  few  rootlets  attached  ;  pot  off  singly  and 
keep  close  until  they  commence  to  start,  when  plenty  of  ven- 
tilation can  be  given. 

FEBRUARY. 

All  cuttings  inserted  in  December  will  be  ready  for  potting 
this  month.  Use  two  and  a-half  inch  pots  and  the  soil  pre- 
pared last  month.  Examine  the  cuttings,  and  if  any  eyes  are 
found  on  the  stem  that  will  be  below  the  soil,  they  should  be 

(118) 


Calendar  of  Monthly    Operations.  119 

rubbed  off,  or  they  will  throw  up  suckers  which  will  rob  the 
main  stem  of  its  nourishment.  The  chief  batch  of  cuttings 
should  be  inserted  this  month,  and  close  attention  paid  to 
those  already  in,  and  the  potting  of  those  requiring  it. 
Towards  the  end  of  the  month,  many  will  require  shifting 
into  three  and  a-half  inch  pots. 

The  soil  for  this  potting  should  be  good  fibrous  loam  or 
rotted  sod,  with  a  little  sand  and  leaf -mold  added. 

Chrysanthemum  seed  may  also  be  sown  this  month  in  pans 
or  boxes,  in  slight  bottom  heat  until  the  seedlings  appear.  As 
soon  as  they  appear,  however,  they  should  be  placed  close  to 
the  glass  on  a  shelf  in  the  greenhouse  or  pit.  If  the  green 
fly  appears,  dust  with  snuff  or  tobacco  powder.  A  still  better 
plan  is  to  spread  some  tobacco  stems  or  refuse  from  the  to- 
bacco factories  upon  the  benches  and  among  the  plants,  as  the 
fumes  from  this  will  keep  the  fly  away. 

MARCH. 

During  this  month  many  things  will  need  attention.  Most 
of  the  cuttings  inserted  in  February  will  need  potting  and 
many  of  them  will  require  shifting  into  larger  pots.  Have  all 
the  pots  clean,  especially  on  the  inside,  using  a  small  piece  of 
crock  in  each  pot  of  four-inch  size  and  larger,  and  have  the 
soil  rich  and  of  such  material  as  has  been  advised.  Ex- 
amine plants  already  potted,  and  if  a  vigorous  growth  has 
commenced,  stop  them  by  nipping  out  the  bud  in  the  centre 
of  the  shoot  when  bush  plants  are  desired,  but  if  standards 
are  wanted  the  side  buds  must  be  rubbed  out,  and  the  main 
shoot  encouraged  in  every  way  possible.  Give  abundance  of 
air  and  never  let  them  become  dry  or  pot-bound.  The  only 
secret  in  their  cultivation  is  to  keep  up  a  vigorous  growth 
from  early  spring  until  they  are  in  bloom  in  your  conservatory 
or  upon  the  stage  of  an  exhibition  hall.  Continue  propa- 
gating throughout  this  month,  securing  all  the  cuttings  possi- 
ble of  rare  sorts  and  as  many  as  are  needed  of  other  varieties. 


I2O  Chrysanthemum   Culture  for  America. 

About  the  end  of  the  month  the  early  sown  seedlings  will  re- 
quire  potting  from  the  seed  boxes  or  pans  using  the  two  and  a 
half  inch  pots,  and  after  potting  keep  near  the  light  but 
shade  from  the  bright  sun,  until  they  are  thoroughly  established. 
Keep  the  houses  in  which  the  established  plants  are  growing 
very  cool,  but  give  all  the  sunshine  possible.  Frost,  of  course, 
must  never  be  allowed  to  enter.  In  the  southern  states,  from 
this  time  on  the  plants  will  do  best  in  cold  frames,  without 
artificial  heat,  until  the  time  of  planting  out. 

APRIL. 

Keep  a  close  watch  upon  the  cuttings  all  this  month ;  get 
as  many  in  as  are  required,  pot  up  all  that  are  rooted,  and 
keep  moving  into  larger  pots  as  the  growth  of  the  plants  de- 
mand it.  Most  of  the  plants  rooted  in  February  and  earlier 
will  now  be  in  six-inch  pots.  The  stronger  growing  varieties 
will  require  a  little  larger  pots  than  the  more  delicate  sorts. 
The  soil  must  now  be  richer  than  for  previous  potting,  using 
about  three  parts  of  well  rotted  loam  of  a  sandy  nature,  one 
part  of  well  decayed  manure,  and  a  six  inch  pot-full  each  of 
bone  meal  and  finely-broken  charcoal  to  a  bushel  of  this  com- 
post. Abundance  of  air  must  be  given  this  month  in  the 
houses  where  chrysanthemums  are  grown.  Where  good  cold 
frames  are  at  hand  all  plants  will  be  better  in  them  than  in  the 
houses,  syringing  in  the  evenings  after  hot  days.  Attend  care- 
fully to  stopping  and  training.  The  plants  intended  for  spec- 
imens must  all  be  selected  this  month  and  their  training  be- 
gun. Always  have  duplicate  plants  when  growing  for  exhibi- 
tion ;  if  you  want  to  show  twenty-five  plants  start  fifty  for 
that  purpose,  and  by  the  time  the  shows  take  place,  you  may 
be  able  to  select  from  the  fifty,  the  twenty-five  needed  for  ex- 
hibition. If  room  and  the  conveniences  are  at  hand  it  is  even 
better  to  start  with  one  hundred.  So  many  accidents  and  dis- 
appointments occur  that  it  is  best  to  make  liberal  allowances 
for  them.  Prepare  beds  and  borders  out  of  doors,  where 


Calendar  of   Monthly    Operations.  12 1 

plants  are  to  stand  during  the  summer.  In  the  south  all  the 
old  plants  should  be  taken  up  this  month  and  divided,  replant- 
ing where  desired.  Plants  standing  in  cold  frames  or  out  of 
doors  should  be  placed  upon  boards  or  coal  ashes  to  prevent 
the  worms  from  entering  the  pots.  Keep  also  a  sharp  look- 
out for  the  little  black  fly  that  is  so  prone  to  infest  them.  If 
syringed  a  few  times  a  week  with  clear  soot  water,  it  will  keep 
them  away  and  give  the  foliage  a  vigorous  appearance. 

MAY. 

Many  varieties,  especially  the  pompons,  may  yet  be  rooted, 
all  making  convenient  plants  in  the  fall  for  decorative  pur- 
poses. Plants  should  all  be  in  the  open  air  by  this  time, 
those  in  pots  standing  upon  ashes  or  boards  as  recommended. 
All  plants  not  intended  for  pot  culture  must  be  now  planted 
out  in  a  place  prepared  for  them  as  has  been  directed.  Place  a 
stout  stake  to  each  plant  and  secure  it  with  some  strong  ma- 
terial. Attend  to  the  watering  carefully  after  setting  out  until 
the  plants  have  taken  hold  in  the  soil.  Specimen  plants 
should  be  in  about  eight  inch  pots  at  this  time  ;  do  not  be  in 
a  hurry  to  get  them  into  their  flowering  pots  ;  give  a  little 
weak  liquid  manure  as  soon  as  the  plants  are  making  a  vigor- 
ous growth.  By  cutting  back  a  few  plants  at  this  season  to 
six  or  eight  inches  in  height  they  will  develop  in  season  for 
late-flowering,  and  by  cutting  back  a  few  every  week  until  the 
middle  of  July,  a  succession  of  them  may  be  had.  If  large 
blooms  are  desired  the  shoots  must  not  be  stopped,  but  al- 
lowed to  grow  unchecked.  Select  a  shoot  for  each  bloom  to 
be  grown  on  a  plant,  put  a  firm  stake  to  it,  and  nip  away  all 
suckers  and  side  shoots  as  they  appear.  Seedlings  should  also 
be  potted  as  they  advance  in  growth.  Prepare  a  compost 
heap  for  the  final  potting  into  their  flowering  pots  and  see  that 
a  sufficient  stock  of  suitable  pots  is  at  hand,  and  have  them 
washed  and  put  in  readiness  for  the  operation.  Prepare  tanks 
or  barrels  for  liquid  manure,  and  stakes  and  wire  for  training. 


122  Chrysanthemum   Culture  for  America. 

JUNE. 

The  principal  duty  of  this  month  is  the  transferring  of  the 
plants  into  larger  pots,  and  many  of  the  most  vigorous  plants 
that  are  of  good  size  may  be  put  into  their  blooming  pots. 
Many,  however,  that  were  propagated  late  must  not  be  put 
into  their  blooming  pots  until  July.  The  final  potting  is  of 
the  utmost  importance,  as  the  ultimate  success  depends  in  no 
small  degree  upon  this  operation.  The  soil  for  this  purpose 
is  described  elsewhere  in  this  book,  and  the  pots  should  be 
from  nine  to  twelve  inches  in  diameter  for  the  last  change. 
The  stopping  of  all  plants  in  the  borders  should  be  continued ; 
always  having  in  mind  the  desired  shape  of  the  plant,  in  the 
pinching  of  the  shoots.  The  tying  of  all  specimens  must  be 
given  close  attention  through  this  month,  as  a  good  founda- 
tion for  all  specimen  plants  must  be  laid  early  in  July.  Tie 
down  and  spread  out  all  long  shoots,  being  careful  not  to  snap 
them  off  in  the  operation.  The  safest  way  is  to  tie  a  piece  of 
string  or  matting  from  the  shoot  you  intend  to  tie  down,  to  the 
main  stem.  When  the  shoot  is  then  bent  the  strain  comes  on 
the  string  and  not  on  the  tender  union  of  shoot  to  the  main 
branch.  In  potting  do  not  fill  the  pots  too  full  of  soil ;  leave 
room  for  a  top  dressing  of  cow  manure  in  August.  Those  not 
quite  ready  for  their  blooming  pots  will  require  liquid  manure ; 
and  the  entire  lot  careful  watering,  frequent  syringing,  and  a 
sharp  lookout  for  insect  pests. 

JULY. 

Plants  growing  out  of  doors  in  the  open  ground  without 
pots  must  have  plenty  of  water,  and  the  surface  not  allowed 
to  become  hard  and  baked.  A  working  with  a  rake,  or  pronged 
hoe,  will  prevent  this  if  repeated  every  week.  In  a  very  dry 
time  a  mulch  of  manure  will  prevent  them  from  drying  out  so 
rapidly.  The  July  bud  will  now  be  appearing  on  most  varie- 
ties on  the  points  of  the  strongest  and  earliest  shoots,  and 
must  be  carefully  removed  at  once.  Two  or  three  shoots  will 


Calendar  of  Monthly  Operations.  123 

appear  from  below,  and  the  terminal  bud  on  each  one  of  these 
shoots  will  produce  fine  blooms.  All  plants  should  be  put  into 
the  pots  in  which  they  are  to  bloom  this  month,  and  the  tying, 
watering,  syringing  and  looking  after  the  insects  all  closely  at- 
tended to.  Specimen  plants  should  be  set  a  suitable  distance 
apart,  and  plunged  about  two  thirds  the  depth  of  the  pots  into 
coal  ashes  or  other  material  that  will  prevent  the  influence  of 
the  sun  from  reaching  them  and  drying  them  out.  Plants 
which  are  to  bloom  in  November  should  not  be  stopped  after 
this  month  ;  such  varieties  as  Grandiflorum  should  not  be  stop- 
ped after  the  first  of  the  month.  Syringe  the  plants  occasion- 
ally with  quassia  water.  Do  not  pot  and  stop  the  plants  at 
the  same  time,  as  each  repotting  at  once  sets  the  roots  into 
active  growth,  and  the  growth  of  the  top  is  checked  for  a 
time.  Wait  until  you  see  signs  of  renewed  growth,  after  re- 
potting, before  you  begin  to  stop.  Cuttings  can  be  rooted 
this  month,  but  do  not  root  as  readily  as  in  spring.  Young 
plants  started  now  make  pretty  objects  for  the  pit  or  conserva- 
tory late  in  November  and  will  bloom  freely  in  four-inch  pots. 

AUGUST. 

No  potting  will  need  to  be  done  this  month.  The  work 
will  include  a  constant  attention  to  watering  chiefly,  together 
with  staking  and  top-dressing.  Such  varieties  as  E.  H.  Fit- 
ler,  Mrs.  W.  K.  Harris  and  Mrs.  Alpheus  Hardy  are  better 
indoors.  A  mulch  of  sheep  or  cow  manure  may  be  given  this 
month  on  the  tops  of  the  pots  during  hot  weather.  If  the 
pots  are  too  full  of  soil  to  admit  of  a  sufficient  dressing,  the 
manure  can  be  banked  up  around  the  edge  of  the  pot  so  as  to 
preserve  a  basin  on  top  to  hold  the  water.  About  the  end  of 
this  month  the  flower  buds  will  begin  to  appear  at  the  end  of 
the  strong  young  shoots.  Beneath  each  terminal  bud  will  be 
noticed  three  or  four  prominent  buds  growing  from  the  axils 
of  the  leaves,  immediately  beneath  the  flower  bud.  These 
side  shoots,  if  allowed  to  remain,  would  draw  considerably 


124  Chrysanthemum    Liilture  for  America. 

from  the  nutriment  of  the  bud,  and  on  this  account  must  be 
carefully  removed.  After  their  removal,  the  flowering  buds 
begin  to  swell  rapidly,  and  liberal  applications  of  liquid 
manure  must  be  made.  If  the  buds  appear  early  in  August, 
it  is  best  to  rub  them  out  and  let  another  shoot  come  and  pro- 
duce another  bud  which  will  undoubtedly  give  the  best  bloom. 
The  crown  or  terminal  bud  that  forms  early  in  August  will 
not  as  a  rule  make  a  good  bloom,  being  liable  to  be  deformed. 
Any  buds  that  appear  after  the  last  week  in  August  may  be 
retained,  as  all  will  make  good  blooms  that  form  after  that 
date.  A  variety  of  liquid  manures  should  be  on  hand  all 
through  this  and  the  next  two  months,  so  as  to  give  the  plants 
a  change  occasionally,  which  is  highly  beneficial. 

SEPTEMBER. 

Where  large  blooms  are  required,  disbudding  should  be 
closely  attended  to  all  through  this  month,  and  the  tying  and 
training  of  specimen  plants  should  receive  the  undivided 
attention  of  every  cultivator.  Watering,  top-dressing  and 
syringing  are  also  important  points  now.  Nearly  all  the 
varieties  will  be  showing  their  buds  by  the  middle  of  the 
month,  and  these  must  be  thinned  out  in  accordance  with  the 
purpose  of  the  grower.  The  top-dressing  must  be  resorted 
to  in  wet  weather,  as  the  rain  carries  the  fertility  down  to  the 
roots.  Manure  water  cannot  be  advantageously  applied  when 
the  weather  is  very  wet,  and  the  top-dressing  is  the  best  way 
to  furnish  them  their  nourishment.  At  this  time  it  may  be 
piled  a  couple  of  inches  above  the  rim  of  the  pot,  leaving  a 
basin  in  the  center  to  hold  water.  All  plants  intended  for 
indoor  decoration  that  have  been  growing  in  the  open  ground 
during  the  summer,  should  now  be  taken  up  and  potted. 
Shade  well  for  a  few  days,  keeping  them  sprinkled,  and  grad- 
ually inure  them  to  the  full  sunlight.  Stake  carefully,  and 
remove  only  leaves  that  have  wilted  and  become  brown-dur- 
ing  the  operation. 


Calendar  of  Monthly  Operations.  125 

OCTOBER. 

In  the  operations  for  this  month  much  depends  on  the 
locality.  In  northern  latitudes  all  plants  would  have  to  be 
in  their  flowering  quarters  by  the  first  of  the  month,  or  earlier  ; 
while  in  more  favored  localities,  the  middle  of  this  month  is  a 
good  time  to  move  the  plants  indoors.  By  the  end  of  Sep- 
tember or  first  few  days  of  October,  all  shoots  and  flower  buds 
should  be  tied  for  the  last  time  in  the  position  in  which  it  is 
desired  to  have  them  remain.  This  gives  them  a  few  weeks 
to  turn  up  and  assume  a  more  natural  style  of  growth,  than 
when  tied  in  place  a  few  days  prior  to  the  exhibition.  Keep 
the  house  in  which  they  are  grown  well  ventilated,  and  allow 
no  surplus  water  to  remain  on  the  floors  over  night.  The  dis- 
budding must  not  be  forgotten  all  through  this  month,  as  lit- 
tle shoots  and  buds  will  be  forming  constantly  on  all  the  main 
stems,  to  the  detriment  of  the  blooms  unless  speedily  removed. 
The  plants  should  by  this  time  become  thoroughly  accustomed 
to  the  liquid  manure,  and  it  should  now  be  given  stronger  and 
more  frequently,  as  there  will  be  a  great  draft  on  the  vital 
resources  of  the  plant  at  this  time  in  developing  its  blooms. 
Mildew  must  be  looked  after  carefully  and  kept  in  check  by 
abundant  ventilation,  and  in  case  of  extremely  dull  weather 
a  little  fire  heat  will  be  beneficial.  Should  mildew  appear, 
dust  with  flour  sulphur  upon  the  affected  parts.  When 
housing  the  plants,  if  it  is  necessary  to  have  all  in  bloom  at 
the  same  time,  shade  may  be  given  to  the  earlier  sorts,  while 
the  more  tardy  varieties  should  be  exposed  to  the  full  sunlight. 
A  few  light  fumigations  after  the  flowers  are  placed  in  their 
quarters  will  entirely  rid  them  of  the  fly,  if  there  should  be 
any  remaining  upon  them,  and  they  will  then  be  in  a  clean 
healthy  condition  to  come  into  bloom.  Plants  grown  out  of 
doors  in  the  South  will  require  attention  at  this  time.  Prep- 
arations should  be  made  to  protect  them  from  the  first  frosts, 
as  in  this  section  there  are  usually  a  few  light  frosts  about 


126  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America. 

the  2oth  of  the  month.  If  protected  from  these  they  may 
continue  blooming  for  a  month,  and  be  very  beautiful  objects 
through  early  November. 

NOVEMBER. 

Liquid  manure  must  be  withheld  as  the  flowers  expand. 
Give  each  plant  as  much  room  as  possible,  and  arrange  the 
plants  to  the  best  advantage  for  displaying  their  blooms. 
From  the  beginning  of  the  month  most  of  them  will  be  in 
bloom,  and  but  little  more  remains  to  be  done  in  regard  to 
cultivation.  Careful  watering,  a  brisk,  dry  atmosphere,  and 
abundance  of  ventilation  alone  are  necessary.  It  is  now 
a  good  time  to  go  through  and  see  that  all  kinds  are  correctly 
labeled,  making  observations  and  taking  notes  for  future  ref- 
erence. 

DECEMBER. 

Plants  that  are  through  blooming  should  be  cut  down,  leav- 
ing one  or  two  of  the  growing  branches,  as,  if  entirely  cut 
down  to  the  soil,  cuttings  will  not  be  produced  freely  and 
weak  or  tender  sorts  would  be  liable  to  succumb  entirely. 
In  taking  out  the  stakes  fill  the  holes  up  with  soil,  in  order  to 
prevent  the  water  running  through  without  becoming  dis- 
tributed through  the  soil.  Some  growers  insert  many  cut- 
tings this  month,  and  when  this  is  deemed  necessary,  the 
work  should  be  proceeded  with  at  once. 

Many  little  defects  will  perhaps  be  observed  by  the  studious 
grower  in  his  selection  of  varieties  at  this  season,  and  other 
improvements  will  doubtless  here  and  there  suggest  them- 
selves :  so,  with  new  purposes  and  firm  resolves  he  starts  out 
on  the  succeeding  season's  work  before  the  present  season  is 
ended. 


0?  THE 

TJSI7BRSIT7 


RHRY8A|ITHKMDH8 


In  their  seasons  on  short  notice.     Catalogues 
semi-annually  to  all  applicants. 


SMITH  i  SON, 


Importers  and  Originators  of  New  Glmjsanthenufms, 

167  WEST  MAUMEE  ST., 


Copyright  1889 
by  F.  R.  PIERSON. 


The  Queen  of 
Autumn" 


ITSIJTIEPIJH5 


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ness.  These  are  fully  described  in  our  large  illustrated  Catalogue  of  all  the 
RPQT  MPW  QPPHQ  CJMsl  PLQMTQ  II  is  vefy  complete,  handsomely  illustrated, 
WlDl  PILH  ODDLIO  J1JUI  rljjlplla.  artistic,  of  particular  interest  to  all  lovers  of 
choice  flowers.  Sent  free  to  all  readers  of  this  book  enclosing  stamp  to  pay  postage.  Address, 
mentioning  "  Chrysanthemum  Culture," 


F.  &  PIEHSON, 


FLORIST  AND  SEEDSMAN, 

TARRYTOWN,  N.Y. 


HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK, 

Designed  as  a  pocket  companion.    The  book  has  been  prepared  with  great  care 

and  much  labor.    It  contains  in  handy  and  concise  form  a  great  number  of 

the  rules  and  receipts  required  by  fruit-growers,  truck  gardeners,  florists, 

farmers,  etc.    Undoubtedly  the  best  thing  of  the  kind  ever  published. 


BY   L.  H.  BAILEY, 

Editor  of  The  American  Garden,  Horticulturist  of  the  Cornell  Experiment  Station  and 
Professor  of  Horticulture  in  Cornell  University, 


OONTENTS    OJ*    THE>     BOOK. 


IV. 

V. 


VI. 
VII. 


VIII. 


I.    Insecticides. 
II.    Injurious  insects,  with  preventives 

and  remedies. 
III.    Fungicides  for  plant  diseases. 

Plant  diseases,  with  preventives 
and  remedies. 

Injuries  from  mice,  rabbits,  birds, 
etc.,  with  preventives  and  reme- 
dies. 

Weeds. 

Waxes  and  washes  for  grafting  and 
for  wounds. 

Cements,  paints,  etc. 
IX.  Seed  Tables:  i.  Quantities  required 
for  sowing  given  areas  2.  Weight 
and  size  of  seeds  of  kitchtn  garden 
vegetables.  3.  Longevity  of  seeds. 
4.  Time  required  for  kitchen  gar- 
den seeds  to  germinate. 
X.  Planting:  Tables:  i.  Dates  for  sow- 
ing or  setting  kitchen  garden  veg- 
etables in  different  latitudes.  2. 
Tender  and  hardy  vegetables  3. 
Usual  distances  apart  for  planting 
fruits  and  vegetables.  4.  Number 
of  plants  required  to  set  an  acre 
at  given  distances  apart. 

Maturity  and  Yields:  i.  Time  re- 
quired for  the  maturity  of  kitchen 
garden  vegetables.  2.  Time  re- 
quired for  the  bearing  o  f  fruit 
plants.  3.  Longevity  offruit  plants. 
4.  Average  yields  of  variouscroi>s. 

Methpis  of  keeping:  and  storing 

fruits  and  vegetables. 
XIII.  Multiplication  and  Propagation  of 
Plants:  i.  Methods  ofmultiplying 
plants.  3.  Ways  of  grafting  and 
budding.  3.  Particular  methods 
by  which  various  fruits  are  propa- 
gated. 4.  Stocks  used  for  various 
fruits. 

Standard  Measures  and  Sizes :  i . 
Standard  flowerpots.  2.  Standard 
and  legal  measures.  3.  English 
measures  for  saleof  fruits  and  veg- 
etables, 

Tables  of  weights  and  measures. 


XI. 


XII. 


XIV. 


XVI.  Miscellaneous  tables,  figures  and 
notes:  i.  Quantities  of  water 
held  in  pipes  and  tanks.  2.  Ther- 
mometer scales.  3.  Effect  of  wind 
in  cooling  glass  roofs.  4.  Per 
cent,  of  light  reflected  from  glass 
at  various  angles  of  inclination. 
5.  Weights  of  various  varieties  of 
apples  per  bushel.  6.  Amount  of. 
various  prod  ucts  yielded  by  given 
quantities  offruit.  7.  Labels.  8. 
Miscellany. 

XVII.    Rules:     i.  Loudon's  rules  of  hor- 
ticulture.   2.  Rules  of  nomencla- 
ture.   3.  Rules  for  exhibition. 
XVIII.    Postal  rates  and  regulations. 

XIX.    Weather    signs,  and   protection 

from  frost. 

XX.  Collecting  and  preserving:  i. 
How  to  make  an  herbarium.  2. 
Preserving  and  printing  of  flowers 
and  other  parts  of  plants.  3. 
Keeping  cut-flowers.  4.  Perfum- 
ery. 5.  How  to  collect  and  pre- 
serve insects. 

XXI.    Elements,  symbols  and  analyses: 

1.  The  elements  and  their  chemi- 
cal symbols.     2.  Chemical  com- 
position of  a  few  common  sub- 
stances.    Analyses:     (a)    Fruits 
and  Vegetables;  (b)    Seeds  and 
Fertilizers;    (c)    Soils  and  Min- 
erals. 

xxil.  Names  and  histories :  i.  Veg- 
etables which  have  different 
names  in  England  and  America. 

2.  Derivation  of  names  of  various 
fruits  and  vegetables.     3.  Names 
of  fruits  and  vegetables  in  various 
languages.      4.  Periods  of  culti- 
vation and  native  countries  ofcul- 
tivated  plants. 

XVIII.  Facts  and  statistics  of  horticulture 
and  the  vegetable  kingdom. 

XXIV.  Glossary  of  technical  words  used 
hv  horticulturists. 

Calendar. 


XXV. 
Price  in  library  st\le  cloth,  wide  margins,  $1 ;  pocket  style,  paper, narrow  margins   50  Cts. 

THE  RURflL  PUBLISHING  COITIPflHY,  Titqes  Building,  H.  Y. 


THE  NURSERY  BOOK 

A  Complete  Hand-Book  of  Propagation  and   Pollination. 

By  L.  H.  BAILEY. 

Uniform  in  Size  and  Style  with   Rule-Book  of  1890    Edition.     Illustrated. 

This  valuable  little  manual  has  been  compiled  at  great  pains.    The  author  has  had 
unusual  facilities  for  its  preparation,  having  been  aided  by  many  experts  in  many  directions. 

The  book  is  ab- 
solutely devoid 
of  theory  and 
speculation. 
It  has  nothing 

?ogy,  nor  with 
any  obstruse 
reasons  of  plant 
growth.  It  sim- 
ply tells  plainly 
and  bri  efl  y 

COVERED  LAYER  OF  VIBURNUM,  what    everyone 

who    sows    a 

seed,  makes  a  cutting,  sets  a  graft,  or  crosses  a  flower  wants  to  know.  It  is  entirely  new 
and  original  in  method  and  matter.  The  cuts  number  almost  100,  and  are  made  especially 
for  it,  direct  from  nature.  The  book  treats  all  kinds  of  cultivated  plants,  fruits,  vegetables, 
greenhouse  plants,  hardy  herbs,  ornamental  trees  and  shrubs,  forest  trees. 

CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER    I.— Seedage.      CHAPTKR    II.— Separation  and  [Division.      CHAPTER    III.— 
Layerage.     CHAI-TER  IV.— Cuttage.    BCHAPTER  V.— Graftage.      Including  Grafting, 
Budding,  Inarching,  etc. 
CHAPTER  VI.— Nursery  List. 

This  is  the  great  feature  of  the  book.  It  has  an  alphabetical  list  of  all  kinds  of  plants, 
with  a  short  statement  telling  which  of  the  operations  described  in  the  first  five  chapters 
are  employed  in  propagating  them.  Over  2,000  entries  are  made  in  the  list.  The 
following  entries  will  give  an  idea  of  the  method  : 

ACER  (MAPI.E).  Sapindacetz.  Stocks  are  grown  from  stratified  seeds,  which  should 
be  sown  an  inch  or  two  deep  ;  or  some  species,  as  A.  dasycarpum,  come  readily  if 
seeds  are  simply  sown  as  soon  as  ripe.  Some  cultural  varieties  are  layered ,  but  bet- 
ter plants  are  obtained  by  grafting.  Varieties  of  native  species  are  worked  upon 
common  or  native  stocks.  The  Japanesesorts  are  winter- worked  upon  imported  A. 
polymorphum  stocks,  either  by  whip  or  veneer-grafting.  Maples  can  also  be  budded 
in  summer,  and  they  grow  readily  from  cuttings  of  both  ripe  and  soft  wood. 
PHYLLOCACTUS,  PHYLLOCEREUS,  DISOCACTUS  (LEAF-CACTUS).  Cactece. 
Fresh  seeds  grow  readily.  Sow  in  rather  sandy  soil,  which  is  well  drained,  and 
apply  water  as  for  common  seeds.  When  the  seedlings  appear,  remove  to  a  light 
position.  Cuttings  from  mature  shoots,  three  to  six  inches  in  length,  root  readily  in 
sharp  sand.  Give  a  temperature  of  about  60°,  and  apply  only  sufficient  water  to 
keep  from  flagging.  If  the  cuttings  are  very  juicy,  they  may  "be  laid  on  dry  sand 
for  several  days  before  planting. 

GOOSEBERRY.  Seeds,  for  the  raising  of  new  varieties  should  be  sown  as  soon  as 
well  cured,  in  lo?.m  or  sandy  soil,  or  they  may  be  stratified  and  sown  together  well 
with  the  sand  in  the  spring.  Cuttings  six  to  eight  inches  long,  of  the  mature  wood, 
inserted  two-thirds  their  length,  usually  grow  readily,  especially  if  taken  in  August 
or  September  and  stored  during  winter.  Stronger  plants  are  usually  obtained  by 
layers,  and  the  English  varieties  are  nearly  always  layered  in  this  country.  Mound- 
layering  is  usually  employed,  th  -  English  varieties  being  allowed  to  remain  in 
layerage  two  years,  but  the  American  varieties  only  one  (Fig.  27).  Layerage  plants 
are  usually  set  in  nursery  rows  for  a  year  after  removal  from  the  stools.  Green-lay- 
ering during  summer  is  sometimes  practised  for  new  or  rare  varieties. 
CHAPTER  VII.— Pollination,  giving  directions  for  making  crosses,  etc. 

This  book  is  now  completed,  and  is  on  sale.     Price,  in  library  style,  cloth,  wide  margins, 
$i ;  Pocket  style,  paper,  narrow  margins,  50  cents. 

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The  New  Potato  Culture 

By  ELBERT  S,  CARMAN, 
Editor  of  THE  RURAL  NEW-YORKER, 

This  book  will  give  the  results  of  the  author's  investigations  and  experi- 
ments during  the  past  fifteen  years.  Its  object  will  be  to  show  all  who  raise 
potatoes,  whether  for  home  use  solely  or  for  market  as  well,  that  the  yield 
may  be  increased  threefold  without  a  corresponding  increase  in  the  cost;  to 
show  that  the  little  garden  patch,  of  a  fortieth  of  an  acre  perhaps,  may  just  as 
well  yield  ten  bushels  as  three  bu  shels ;  to  induce  farmers  and  gardeners  to  ex- 
periment with  fertilizers  not  only  as  to  the  kind,  that  is  to  say,  the  constit- 
uents and  their  most  effective  proportions,  but  as  to  the  most  economical  quan- 
tity to  use ;  to  experiment  as  to  the  most  telling  preparation  of  the  soil,  the 
depth  to  plant,  the  size  of  seed,  the  number  or  eyes,  the  distance  apart.  These 
will  be  among  the  subjects  considered,  not  in  a  theoretical  way  at  all,  but  as 
the  outcome  of  fifteen  years  of  experimentation  earnestly  made  in  the  hope  of 
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mitted that  these  experiments  so  long  carried  on  at  the  Rural  Grounds  have, 
directly  and  indirectly,  thrown  more  light  upon  the  various  problems  in- 
volved in  successful  potato  culture,  than  any  other  experiments  which  have 
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Annals  of  Horticulture  for  1890 


BY  PROFESSOR  L.  H.  BAIL.EY. 


As  a  work  of  reference  for  all  students  of 


include  hundreds  of  entries.  It  will  form  an 
to  the  knowledge  of  the  origin  and 
variation  of  plants.  The  novel- 
ties of  1890,  tools  and  conven- 
ience of  the  year,  directories, 
lists  of  plant  portraits,  including 
all  the  leading  journals  of  the 
world  this  year,  recent  horticul- 
tural literature,  and  other  chap- 
ters, are  each  alone  worth  many 
times  more  than  the  cost  of  the 
book.  What  have  horticultur- 
ists thought  about  during  1890  ? 
This  is  the  theme  of  the  book. 


plants  and  nature,  this 
will    be   invaluable. 
No    one  who  expects 
to  keep  up  with  the 
progress  of  the  times 
can  be  without  it.   An 
especial    feature    o  f 
the  volume   for  1890 
•     will   be    a    census    of 
cultivated    plants    of 
American  origin,  with 
^    dates  of  introduction 
j    and   extent  of   varia- 
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TJiE  BHIERIDRN  GHRDEN 

Combines  in  one  magazine  the  old  Horticulturist  of  Andrew  Jackson  Downing, 

established  in  1846  ;    The  Gardener's  Monthly  of  Marot  and  Meehan, 

established  in  1857  ;  The  Floral  Cabinet  of  Henry  T.  Williams, 

established  in  1871,  and  The  American  Garden  of  Dr, 

F.  M.  Hexamer,  established  in  1872. 

Edited  by  Professor  L.  //.  BAILEY,  practical  horticulturist.  Professor  of 
Horticulture  in  Cornell  University  and  Horticulturist  of  the  Cornell  Experi- 
ment Station. 

It  is  the  only  independent,  illustrated  magazine  of  Horticulture  and 
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It  is  in  magazine  form,  with  a  beautiful  cover,  averages  over  100  pages, 
140  articles  and  40  illustrations  in  each  number,  aggregating  over  1,200  pages, 
1,600  articles  and  500  illustrations  in  a  year;  written  and  prepared  by  hun- 
dreds of  bright  writers,  original  thinkers,  successful  specialists  and  practi- 
cal horticulturists  in  all  parts  of  the  world.  Original  from  cover  to  cover, 
Its  special  features  include : 

BROAD  DISCUSSIONS  of  economic  questions  by  leading  thinkers.  Re- 
lations of  soil  culture  to  government  and  society.  The  old  and  the  new  in 
farming.  Development  of  new  industries,  etc.,  etc. 

FRUIT  CULTURE,  embracing  all  branches,  climates  and  conditions,  from 
apples  in  Maine  and  Minnesota  to  oranges  in  Florida  and  California;  small 
fruits  and  tree  fruits  of  every  description ;  grapes  in  the  vineyard  and  un- 
der glass;  diseases  of  fruits;  insect  enemies;  nut  culture;  new  varieties. 
Illustrated. 

FLORICULTURE,  comprising  descriptions  of  varieties  and  methods  of 
culture.  Accounts  of  all  the  new  introductions ;  conservatory  and  greenhouse 
management;  beds  and  bedding;  artistic  arrangement ;  commercial  floricul- 
ture; window  gardening.  Illustrated. 

LANDSCAPE  GARDENING  in  all  its  phrases,  from  park  construction  and 
management  down  to  the  arrangement  of  the  smallest  places.  Illustrated. 

VEGETABLE  GARDENING.— Growing  vegetables  for  market  and  home 
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GREENHOUSE  CONSTRUCTION,  heating,  ventilation,  etc.     Illustrated. 

"THE  EDITOR'S  OUTLOOK"  discusses  current  topics  of  interest  to  all 
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"FIRST  FRUITS  "  chronicles  recent  happenings  in  the  horticultural  field. 

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